Unisaw

[pat fowler]

I'm thinking of buying a cabinet saw and wanted some opinions, old unisaw vs. new unisaw. Thanks in advance for all replies.:D

[Brandon Shew]

Old Unisaws of any vintage are awesome (I have an early 40's model), but the new one looks really nice. It has received many positive reviews. If money wasn't an object I'd go new for two reasons 1) Riving knife (FWW just gave it a good review in the T&S Annual.) and 2) The table is larger in front of the blade (which I find is really the only issue that I can complain about on my saw).

If money is an issue, you could pick up a used one for 25% - 40% of new depending on condition, motor HP/phase, and age (although age seems to be less of a factor than the 1st two). thee are planty of spae parts out there and they made a ton of them so they aren't hard to find if you look around. I would expect with the economy the way it is right now that you could get a real deal.

[Ray Newman]

My 3 HP Uni is 22+ years old & we are very good friends. Has never let me down. Still has the original power belts, but I did replace the arbor bearings. It “sports” an Incra 1000SE miter gauge, 52” Uni-fence, the Uni-guard w/ the old style disappearing splitter , plus two cast iron wings.

Never felt the need for a 5 HP motor. The 3 horse swings a 8” dado set & a Forrest WoodWorker II blade w/ ease. It’s a solid saw & holds its settings.

If looking today, I would seriously consider the new Uni for the riving knife.

The latest issue of Fine Wood Working -- #202, Tools & Shop Issue -- has an article on the newer saws w/ a riving knife. Unless I am reading it all wrong, the new Uni is the only cabinet saw w/ a front mounted quick release for the riving knife. I like the idea of the riving knife & would like one on my Uni, but I just can’t see me giving up my Ol’ Friend for it.

I also like the idea of both hand wheels in front of the saw. It has taken me 22 years, but I am now also starting to see the benefits of a left tilt for bevels. Delta has improved dust collection for the new Uni. I wish it had a way to catch saw dust @ the blade guard.

Now of course this all comes @ a price compared to the older/pre-owned & unsold “old model” saws.

I think it depends upon your pocketbook & how much you can afford to spend. My hunch is that you’ll be happy w/ either the new or the old Uni. I think if you look around & possibly bide your buying time until closer to the new Uni availability date, you might really find some bargains on a new old model Uni. But don’t forget to figure in shipping if you can’t get it yourself.

I'd also wait until I could see a new Uni. if that's what you really want.

[Dewey Torres]

I have a 1995 UNI made in the USA. The later models were made in China until this year. The new UNI is not yet on the market but should be priced at $2800. Cheaper than a Sawstop but it will cut your fingers off.

The riving knife is a feature found on most all the new saws now. The Oldies are great, well made, and time tested but more dangerous than the new ones. It will be your call.

[hank dekeyser]

My Uni-Saw came from a high school that my 80 plus year old Father attended. Attach a 4 x 8 sheet for a table, shop built "beismeyer" style fence (54" to right, 36" to left) and I'm in for under $400. I would stay away from the "bullet" style motors though (just because) Heck my saw even took a skid down the road (fell out of the truck on the way home. No matter how heavy something is STRAP IT DOWN dumb me) I like the older stuff better, but the new fences are nicer. My 2 cents


Elvis isn't dead, he just went home

[Alex Shanku]

My Uni-Saw came from a high school that my 80 plus year old Father attended. Attach a 4 x 8 sheet for a table, shop built "beismeyer" style fence (54" to right, 36" to left) and I'm in for under $400. I would stay away from the "bullet" style motors though (just because) Heck my saw even took a skid down the road (fell out of the truck on the way home. No matter how heavy something is STRAP IT DOWN dumb me) I like the older stuff better, but the new fences are nicer. My 2 cents


Elvis isn't dead, he just went home


The 4-footed Uni's are the coolest, but next to that, the RI motors with goose egg covers have to claim that title.

[Bob Aquino]

My preference would be for the older saws but keep in mind that they may need a bit of work to get back in shape. Nothing wrong with that, plenty of resources on the net to help you do it and you can have a very nice piece of equipment for less money. The newer saws are fine too. I'm not sure where the opinion that they were ever made in China came from, they have always been built here in the US. Now they may have sourced their parts overseas on some of the later saws.

On the very old saws (with the Cast Iron base, dust door and goose egg cover) you will have a classic machine that can only appreciate in value as long as its maintained. The bullet motors are very strong in torque, will last forever if maintained. No reason to avoid them. If you are lucky enough to find one with 4 feet (aka the FFU or four footed Unisaw) then you have a collectable machine that will have widespread appeal.

[Chip Lindley]

Unisaws have been around for Eons! They are pretty much bullet proof!! Perhaps that is why so many *clones* are now being imported under assumed names!

Should you find a solid Unisaw that is complete, and has not been abused (badly rusted, cracked iron) you will certainly get your moneys worth, compared to a major outlay of cash for the *new* Unisaw. Get as much bang for the buck as you can, with at least 3hp 1ph motor, and a Biesemeyer-type fence. Once you have used a Unisaw or a Powermatic 66, is difficult or impossible to go backward! Those are the standard by which 10" cabinet saws are judged.

[Pat Germain]

I'm not sure where the opinion that they were ever made in China came from, they have always been built here in the US. Now they may have sourced their parts overseas on some of the later saws..

Actually, Dewey is correct about this, Bob. If you walk into Woodcraft or Rockler today and look at a Unisaw on the floor, it's made in Asia. I don't know exactly when Delta started making them in Asia, but it's been at least several years. This is why it was big news when Delta announced they would making their new Unisaw in the US. Nobody expected any manufacturing to return to the US once it went overseas.

The new Unisaw is pricey, but I'd still like to have one! It's got a good cool factor as well as a riving knife.

[Bruce Page]

I have a 1995 UNI made in the USA. The later models were made in China until this year. Just curious, does anyone know what year Delta took the Unisaw off shore? I have a ’98-’98 American made Uni.

[JohnMorgan of Lititz]

I bought my Unisaw in the fall of 2006 - its got a big ol' "Proudly Made in USA" sticker on it. Not to say the parts weren't from overseas - that i don't know.

You have to look close at Delta's catalog and there were a few of their cabinet saws made over seas - but the "Unisaws" were all made in the USA. Not ALL of their cabinet saws are unisaws...this was clearly marked in the last Delta catalog i picked up.

The european saws have had riving knives for quite a while and its about time our traditional style US saws follow suit. I think if you are saving up for a brand new saw you would be wise to buy something with the riving knife...otherwise a good Unisaw is a great tool. As other's have said, you can't really go wrong. Strong motors, strong cabinets, hold their settings well...the list goes on.

[pat fowler]

Thanks for all the replies, sounds like any unisaw would be worth having. What about the fence on the old saws, are they "good enough" or should I expect to have to add a after market fence?

[Maurice Ungaro]

FWIW, my X5 Uni was built around 2003. I bought it reconditioned, but both the original boiler plate and the recond tag state that it was "Made in the USA".
Don't know if you guys recall the hoopla about the X5 line when it came out, but they touted it as an American made product line. The regular stuff was made in Asia.

As for the fence, you cant go wrong with a Uni fence, or Beismeyer fence (probably the most copied fence out there).

[Dewey Torres]

Thanks for all the replies, sounds like any unisaw would be worth having. What about the fence on the old saws, are they "good enough" or should I expect to have to add a after market fence?

Pat,
I have the UNI fence. Some like the Beis some like the UNI-T. I will just tell you that they all have advantages and disadvantages. The UNI fence for example can't be moved the the left of the blade without taking it apart. But it can be in tall or short config which the Beis can't do. The UNI-T is a UNI-fence with a square extrusion which allows more accessories to be attached to it but you have to give up the tall/short config. Just decide what options are important to you and for your work habits. I love my UNI Fence. Others here will say they hate it.

[Mike Wilkins]

I agree that any vintage of the Unisaw is a good deal if you can find one in good shape. Parts are widely available.
As for the fence; if you find an older machine with the Jet-Lock fence, find a dark corner of the shop and put it there. I replaced mine with the Unifence, and it bolted up nicely onto my 1964-era Rockwell Unisaw. Rock solid.

[John Callahan]

Afaik Uni's have always been made/assembled in the US- for many years in Tupelo, MS till Pentair closed the plant in 2004 and moved Uni production to Jackson, TN. Current saws do use a Brazilian sourced WEG motor. Delta did have until fairly recently, an imported (Taiwan) 3 hp cabinet saw (36-730, 36-731,36-732 depending on which fence you got). It was a full fledged cabinet saw but different in design than a Uni with a two piece arbor among other things. 103960

[Chip Lindley]

Ah yes, the much maligned JetLock fence!! I had excellent luck with one of the originals, a 1947 model, with the knurled knob up front which tightened the rear of fence to the rear rail!! It worked like a charm every time! But, the accuracy of most often found JetLocks with the slotted screw up front is *iffy*.

That being said, looking for a Unisaw with Biesemeyer (or clone) or Delta UniFence would save you lotsa Grief! A good fence mades a decent saw Excellente' !! A POS fence makes the best saw.....a POS! my .02!

[David Christopher]

I have a 1958 uni and I wouldnt trade it for nobodys other saw

also you can pick up a 3 phase model pretty cheep and get a motor from grizzly because its a direct bolt on ( about 200$)

[Mark Boyette]

Can't beat those older models. Bought my 1964 from work when they replaced it with a sawstop. it's been heavily used since it's purchase. Motor changed out after 40 years of use but that's about it.
Personally I can't get used to the left tilt on the sawstop. makes it a pain when dadoing.
Good luck, Mark.

[Ray Newman]

Chip L: once had an older Delta Contractor Saw w/ Jet Lock like you described. Worked well. I thought the geared handle & the teeth on the front fence mounting tube were a good idea for fine tuning the fence to exact distance from the blade. Was one really good saw. Probably would still have it, but I was offered a new Uni @ a price that I couldn’t refuse. & I got a few dollars when I sold the Contractor Saw.

I think most guys who bad n mouth the ol’ Jet Lock are those who slammed plywood, etc., into it & expected it to hold its settings.

[Bob Aquino]

I have a 1958 uni and I wouldnt trade it for nobodys other saw

also you can pick up a 3 phase model pretty cheep and get a motor from grizzly because its a direct bolt on ( about 200$)

If its an older model with a 3 phase bullet style motor, you cant swap the motor without hacking up the cabinet. The clearance is that tight. For those machines you can buy a VFD phase converter for less than 150 and run it that way.

Dewey: Not sure where you are getting your info, but Uni's were never made overseas. Delta did manufacture some "industrial cabinet saws" that were Taiwanese, but these aren't Uni's.

[Mike Wellner]

Whats the model number of this new saw replacing the Unisaw?