Felled 6' Stump

[Burt Alcantara]

My neighbor has a felled silver maple. The trunk, lying on the ground is about 6' in diameter. I've got a Sthil 390 with a 20" bar. To be frank, I'm terrified of plunge cutting. I've never done that so perhaps my fears are over exaggerated.

What's a good way to get this trunk down to size?

Thanks,
Burt

[Pete Bradley]

If it's got one of the Stihl safety chains (green markings), it's relatively controllable even for a novice. That's relative though, take precautions.

The bigger problem is a big rip like that with a stock chain will take a while and is hard to get straight. Really plan it out to avoid junking the log.

Pete

[Fred Belknap]

You didn't mention how long it is. When I was a youngster we split logs to make fence rails but nothing 6' diameter. We used metal and wooden wedges and a splitting maul. There is usually a split or flaw in the log somewhere,start there. If it isn't straight grained I doubt if you can split it. Good luck, you gona need it.

[Corey Wilcox]

I second Pete's comments on planning and taking your time. That being said, we recently split some 4' diameter white pine logs with the same 390 chainsaw and some big wooden wedges. We cut the log down its length (one side) using an 18" bar. Make sure your chain is as sharp as can be before you start or it will be absolute misery. I would even stop once or twice while you're cutting and touch up the chain. It makes the job a whole lot easier. If you start from one end of the log and work to the other you won't truly be plunge cutting as the end/top of your bar (and chain) will be in the kerf. As you work down the log, stop periodically and drive in wooden wedges to keep the kerf open. That will prevent binding and kickback. Once you've cut all the way down the length start driving in your wedges a little at a time keeping them even. The log will likely split easier than you would imagine. Unless you have a split trunk or large knot. That will require some extra planning and probably some extra sweat as well.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I did the same thing with a 40" diameter walnut trunk and an Husqvarna with a 24" bar. You need a ripping chain, a standard chain isn't going to do it without overheating and needing to be sharpened every 10 minutes. You can buy ripping chains, or you can make your own. I made one by grinding off a pair of teeth alternating (take 2, keep 2 so it cuts straight), leaving all the rakers. Then file the remaining teeth square across, and adjust the rakers until it has a bite that is aggressive but doesn't bog the saw. I used a bar guide, it clamps to the bar and follows a 2x4 that you screw to the log to keep the cut fairly straight. The ripping chain really helped and made beautiful long shavings. When the shavings get short or the chain just makes dust it is dull and you need to sharpen it. Stop and check the chain for adequate lube and make sure the teeth aren't turning blue. Ripping is really hard on the chain and bar because it is buried in the log and can't dissipate heat very well.

Debark the tree if you can before cutting, there is a lot of silica in the bark and it dulls the chain faster.

I had to do a plunge cut for this tree. I carefully did it so I stayed out of the path of the bar if it kicked on me, and planned the cut so the action of the chain would keep the bar in the tree. A plunge cut isn't too dangerous if you are careful to plan the cut so you don't get hurt if it kicks. Its the unexpected grabs when you are just casually crosscutting that kill people.

[Ed Labadie]

Sorry, but cutting up a 6' log with a 20" bar will be futile at best.

How are you wanting cut the log up?

Best bet is to find someone with a big saw to buck the log for you or buy a bigger saw.

Ed

[Richard M. Wolfe]

I agree with Ed. A full 20" cut on either side would still leave over 30" in the middle and splitting that much would be problematic. If you have an extensive machinery renatal somewhere close you might be able to get a chainsaw capable of the cut or possibly find someone you could hire to do it, because not only are you going to have to split it in half lengthwise, each of those halves are going to have to be split if you are going to have it milled.

[Ed Labadie]

If you are planning on milling the log, best to track down someone with a Lucas or Peterson swingmill.
They can set up right over the log, all you'll have to do is carry away lumber.

Ed

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Ed is correct in saying a swingblade mill would be the best to use. I was thinking only in terms of a bandmill like a Woodmizer, which has a three foot capacity (on paper, anyway......in practice it's usually a good bit less):).

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

If you are like me you'll have ground away all the chippers and anti kick stuff on the blade and put a really aggressive grind on the teeth.
Plunging that is a bit of a challenge. But, if you have all the anti kick stuff still on your blade then you should be able to master plunging on the second try.

[Cody Colston]

Here's one way.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/woodworking_can_be_a_blast/

[Sonny Edmonds]

These guys used to make these wedges with a hollow in them and a fuse hole.
They'd drive the wedge into a log with some powder in the hole. Then stick a fuse in the fuse hole and light it and run.
Supposedly the powder would bust the chunk in half when it blew.

I'm more inclined to think the wedge would land in the next county.... :rolleyes: