Round bar tool handle

[Jack Clay]

I have made a carbide tool holder out of 3/8 stainless steal round bar. I am looking for information on how to put on a handle. I would like to see handles that any of you have made for your chisels. I also was wondering if any of you use other than round handles. How do you make sure you are drilling the center and attaching the bar to the handle? I appreciate any help.

[Joshua Dinerstein]

Jack,

I just made my first few handles. The first was something of a disaster. The second worked so well it was almost scary.

The tricks I found:
1- Get stock a fair bit larger than the final size. I got a 2x2x13 piece of black walnut to make a 1 5/8th inch handle.

2- Drill the hole for the tools tang before rounding down. This way I had lots of wood left to have a thick enough handle.

3- Use brad point drill bits. :) Silly I know but it worked wonder for keeping things straight for me.

That was about it for me. The handle came out perfectly.

In regards to the other than round question. I made a few handles out of some squared off 3/4" maple I have. Might have been for pen blanks might not. I really never looked at the auction text I just wanted the wood... I rounded down the should and mounted some copper pipe as a ferrule but left the body of the handle square in cross-section. I this because it was an Allan wrench hollowing tool and I knew there would be a great deal of twisting force on it and I wanted to be able to grab it solidly. It worked really well for what I did with it. But at 3/4 to 1 inch in size it was small enough to still get a firm grip on for me.

I can post a picture of you want to see it but I expect the explanation is probably clear enough.

Joshua

[Scott Conners]

Here's a few sets of instructions: http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/handles.asp My method is based on this: http://www.woodturninglearn.net/articles/forgottenhandle.htm I use brass compression nuts for the ferrule, they make a really clean rolled lip on the front, and you can turn them round with a scraper/small gouge followed by a file (put a handle on the file or use it on the bottom of the work with the tang away from you for safety). I prefer a handle with a taper that begins 1.5" behind the ferrule down to a waist about 3/4 of the way down the handle. It returns to near full dimension for most of the last 1/4, giving a large bulb to grip. This gives me a positive taper to handle any forces pushing the tool towards me. For a carbide tool I wasn't rolling in my hand much, I'd prefer a larger handle to keep my hand from cramping. Edit: The board won't keep my paragraph breaks, sorry for the wall of text.

[Jack Clay]

Any pictures would be great. It seems like that when I tried the cutter with just the round bar it wanted to twist. This is why I was wandering about a handle that is not round. I mainly turn pens, eggs and other small project. I did not know if it would be better to do a larger round handle to help hold it or make it non round. I will read through these articles thanks for the help.

Most of the pen turning chisels I have seen are small, is this most common? Do the people that turn these small projects keep these handles or change them for something different?

[Scott Conners]

Many of the systems that use carbide inserts use a handle that incorporates a pistol grip and wrist cuff or anti-torque bar that rides the toolrest. I've seen pistol grips made of iron pipe fittings, with a PVC arm cuff. \ A common tool handle used on large boring tools and gouges is just a piece of iron pipe of the proper internal size to fit the end of the tool, with holes for set screws drilled and tapped on one end. You can wrap it with any type of sports or tool grip you want. Many people add lead shot as well, to add weight to absorb vibration. I've also seen compression fitting used to replace the set screws. The bonus on these handles is that you can adjust the tool's length. Scorpion Handle: http://www.donpencil.com/ Monster side toque handle: http://www.monster-wood-tool.com/wst_page4.html