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View Full Version : Fix old TS, or buy a new one.....



JohnT Fitzgerald
12-16-2008, 10:15 PM
Lame title, but I couldn't use the first thought that crossed my mind, which was #*&$#*

So I spent some time during the summer and over the fall improving my TS (an older Delta 34-670 I "inherited" from my brother). New Biesemeyer fence, shop-made extension table, added a dust collection port, ZCI's, adjusted parallel to miter slots, made a x-cut sled, etc etc etc. No more than 'minor projects (small things with the kids) while I got other parts of my shop sorted out. The TS actually was in good shape.

Spent tonight making mock-up of frame/panels I'll be using on a project, just as a dry run. just about completed with the dados for the panel, and the saw starts making funny noises. #*&$#* !!!!!!!

Next step is to pull it apart and see if it's something simple with the motor (pretty sure it's definitely the motor). Then comes the decision - try to fix, or start reading the bountiful "Which TS should I buy?" threads here on SMC.

Anyone here ever had motor troubles with older Delta contractor/hybrid saws? I've found some replacement motors online, but at $200+ I wonder if it's throwing good money away. Also wondering how tough it is to get it all apart. Will need help for that...I don't expect LOML to be able to help with this one.

Kelly C. Hanna
12-16-2008, 10:33 PM
To me it's like old trucks....never buy a new one! I always try and fix the existing tool. The newer ones generally cost 4-6 times as much as the fix.

Chip Lindley
12-16-2008, 10:49 PM
All depends on what is wrong with your motor John! What are the symptoms? Smoke? Smell? Slow starting w/humming? A metallic squealing sound? A knocking sound? If you motor were toast, it would not be running at all.

The fix could be as simple as cleaning the start winding contacts. It could be your starter switch going south. It could be a loose connection. New motor bearings are not that hard, and is a nice learning experience in rehabing machinery. It could be a loose pulley (we hope it has not gnarled up its shaft!!) The list of things it could be goes on and on. Let us know what exactly the motor is/is not doing......

JohnT Fitzgerald
12-16-2008, 10:59 PM
All excellent questions! I'll post an update after I get at the motor (have to wait till someone can help me lift & flip it).

The motor still starts and runs, although once it did trip the breaker. it makes a sort of clicking/"loose" sound - it's a direct drive saw, but internally in the motor assembly there is a small belt that runs from the motor spindle to a pulley of some time. I'm hoping it's just something stuck in there - maybe just a new belt or bearing.

Chip Lindley
12-17-2008, 12:49 AM
Sounds as if something might be stuck in your open frame motor, interferring with the centrifugal starter winding contacts. This may be as simple as blowing compressed air through the motor's vent openings. But, otherwise, the motor may need be disassembled to clean it out properly. The centrugal switch can be checked to slide up and down the motor shaft freely under spring pressure.

Hmm...A direct drive saw would arguably NOT be worth a new motor!! While you are exploring this motor's problem, begin to keep your eye out locally for a good used contractor's saw with a *real* motor. The old Rockwell/Delta Model 10s are good saws. I used one for years, cutting miles of oak. Other clones of this saw would probably serve you well also. It has a 1.5hp motor with belt/pulley drive. These old saws go cheaper than you might imagine, compared to prices of NEW contractor-type saws at home centers everywhere!

Jeff Bratt
12-17-2008, 3:05 AM
If the motor runs, then with luck it won't need to be replaced. This being a direct drive saw with a universal motor, it could need brushes or a bearing, or something could just be loose inside the motor/drive assembly. But I might also hesitate to spend too much on it...

Paul Steiner
12-17-2008, 7:49 AM
Gotta fix the old one. I bet that you will be alot happier with the quality of your old saw than of similiar moderately priced replacement. I like the old stuff, generally tougher and they have history lastly if you get running you will have the satisfaction of know you brought this saw back to life. Just like someone restoring an old car.

Tony Bilello
12-17-2008, 8:13 AM
"A direct drive saw would arguably NOT be worth a new motor".
If you can fix it for a few bucks, go ahead, but I would rather buy a new saw or a good old Delta Contractors saw. The Contractors Saw`is found in just about every cabinet shop in America. They were great saws and still are. I bought a new one less than a year ago and it it every bit as good as the older ones and I put mine through hell and back.
The old direct drive saw compared to the old/new contractors saw is like comparing Hugo's and Porche's. There is that much of a difference.

Alex Shanku
12-17-2008, 9:25 AM
If you dont have one yet, here is the manual for your saw.

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/En1340213.pdf

Jeff Duncan
12-17-2008, 10:13 AM
I'm not into model numbers so I'll guess yours is a contractors saw? Whether or not to replace it is something only you can answer, but with the cost of used machines these days (did you see the Powermatic 66 selling for $800 earlier this week?) I'd be inclined to start looking for an upgrade over another repair for an inexpensive saw.

that's my 2 cents, good luck,
JeffD

JohnT Fitzgerald
12-17-2008, 10:41 AM
Thanks for the manual. downloaded that a while ago, but I also have the hardcopy.

question on motors - I hope to fix this one. since I'm pulling it out I'll probably replace the brushes anyways, and the belt, and maybe the bearing. But I did find a replacement that's an induction motor - am I correct in assuming that the induction motor (a) does not use brushes, and (b) will be quieter?

JohnT Fitzgerald
12-17-2008, 10:36 PM
EDIT/UPDATE - flipped the saw over and off the stand, and got at the motor. Removed the cover on one end where the air is pulled in for cooling - found a lot of the strands of plastic from when I cut my ZCI piled up there, so some might have got sucked in. Vac'd all that out and scraped out all the compacted sawdust that was stuck in there. Then I pulled out the brushes - lots of brush material left, but TONS of junk compacted in there with them. That makes me wonder what the inside of the motor looks like. Vac'd it all out, then hit it with compressed air and vac'd again. Put it all back together, and it sounds a lot better - I'm inclined to think it was just crud. I'm also inclined to think about either the replacement motor (induction motor), or a new (bigger and **quieter**) TS.


Thanks for the advice everyone.