Craftsman 22124 table saw and Delta Tenoning Jig 32-182

[Neil Kuzio]

OK guys, I need your help. First timer here and new to woodworking but here to stay. I have a Craftsman professional series table saw #22124. I just bought a Delta Tenoning Jig model 34-182 for $40, in great shape.

New to this, I've attempted to get my bearings with the jig. WIth the jig on the left side, I cannot get the vertical work support plate to meet the saw blade. The miter track is approx. 6 inches away from the blade?? I have the two button head screws on the farthest point on the slide base but I am coming up approx. 1/2 inch short of the blade??

I initially was concerned about fitting in the miter slot, but that fits well. I wasn't anticipating a problem like this unless I'm missing an obvious concept here, again, I'm new to this.

I guess my simple question is, does this jig fit this saw or did I buy the wrong jig. If so, what jig is recommended. Appreciate any help:confused:

[John Thompson]

Call Orion (which is Steel City) technical on Monday and ask if there has been a problem with the Delta fitting your saw. I doubt it but... give them a call anyway. Have you tried both positions underneath the jig and it still won't meet and ... is the miter slot on the other side the same distance from the blade?

I'm puzzled here no doubt...

Sarge..

[Chuck Tringo]

Just add a sacrificial wooden face which will move your work closer and protect the blade as well, you don't want the metal face too close anyways...espescially if you want to shave a small amount off or do raised panels, etc.....CI and carbide are not good friends.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Neil,

Welcome to the Creek!

I bought a tenoning jig at Rockler in Arlington, TX while I was there this summer. I was concerned and sure enough...when I got home it came up short like yours. Then I looked and there was two mounting places for the bar that rides in the miter slot. I removed the two screws and moved it over to the other position and it worked fine and put the jig next to the blade.

Check to see if you have a 2nd mounting position.

Good luck!

[Neil Kuzio]

Thanks guys. I did see that adjustment Ken. I moved the placement of the bar to the end holes which gives me the most distance but still comes up short. I did think about putting a block of wood on the plate to extend its distance but wondered whether that would work.

The slot on the right side is closer and would make the saw blade but I was under the notion that the jig needs to be on the side of the tilting blade.

Again, I appologize for the naievity, but can the jig go on the right side and slide, in essence...backwords?? I assume the tilting will not work with the saw blade tilt.

I may have to use the wood block on the face. It will protect the blade but I thought it was something that I would not have to do with a jig like this.

[John Thompson]

Thanks guys. I did see that adjustment Ken. I moved the placement of the bar to the end holes which gives me the most distance but still comes up short. I did think about putting a block of wood on the plate to extend its distance but wondered whether that would work.

The slot on the right side is closer and would make the saw blade but I was under the notion that the jig needs to be on the side of the tilting blade.

Again, I appologize for the naievity, but can the jig go on the right side and slide, in essence...backwords?? I assume the tilting will not work with the saw blade tilt.

I may have to use the wood block on the face. It will protect the blade but I thought it was something that I would not have to do with a jig like this.

No.. no.. no.. to sliding it backwards into the blade. I shouldn't have mentioned it as to not confuse you. I know the Steel City Line pretty well and was wondering if the miter is a different distance from the blade than the other side as most of the Steel City saws. I was more curious as I am not totally familar with that Orion saw which is made by Steel City.

Use the false fence as metioned if the fartherst bottom setting won't allow it to reach. As mentioned... probably better to use it anyway regardless than risk metal to metal if you aren't paying close attention.

Again.. sorry to throw you a curve on the miter slot distance on the other side... My bad..

Good luck...

Sarge..

[Neal Clayton]

i see no problem with running it backwards. i have run mine backwards with a full assembled window sash clamped in it to cut a rope/chain groove in the side, no problems. no need to run it backwards all the time since you lose the plate backing the board, but it can be done if you have to.

[Joe Scharle]

John the 22124 and the SC equivalent share the same part catalog. I have the 22124 and looked at the SC catalog for the Leitz blade a while back, since it's not listed in the Orion list.

[Chris Kennedy]

I have the 22124 and the Woodcraft clone of the Delta tenoning jig. My guess is that the tenoning jig you have is configured for a right-tilt saw. When I bought mine, I had to configure it for left tilt. This involved basically removing the upper assembly from the base plate and moving it all over so it would reach the blade. Moving the miter bar isn't enough. You should have to undo two lock handles and the micro-adjust.

My scanner isn't working, but if you have a fax number, I can fax you a copy of my manual on Monday when I am at the office if you think it would help. Send my a PM if you are interested.

Cheers,

Chris