690LR Collet Issue

[Thomas Knighton]

I just recently picked up my first real router, a 690LR that serves as an early Christmas present from my Mom so I can build her a bookcase. It's sort of a win-win situation ;)

Earlier today, was experimenting with the router bits I picked up from the Blue BORG and ran into an issue. The bit that should fit into the 1/4" collet, doesn't. The 1/2" collet works fine, but the 1/4" doesn't. It's almost like the inner part doesn't expand when the collet is loosened from the motor.

Anyone else run into this? If so, what are my options? Porter-Cable's website won't recognize my work email as valid (nor my home one either for some reason), so I can't send my question via email and I'm not sure the 1-800 number I have for them will actually work for this (it's for sales).

Any help would be appreciated.

Tom

[Heather Thompson]

Thomas,

If you remove the inner part can you fit the 1/4' shank into that piece, if so I would guess that the collet assembly got tightened down with no bit installed and deformed (bent) the inner piece. If that is the case I would try putting a dowel rod into a pencil sharpener to create a wedge, then set the inner part on your bench and try spreading the jaws apart (gently). My neighbor down the street fired up his new router with no bit in it to hear it run, suffered the same symptoms, my pencil point trick got him back in business with no trouble, hope this helps you.

Heather

[Bill Houghton]

The P-C router collets are "self-release" collets, which means that they're designed so that the bits won't get stuck in them. On the P-C design (and most other self-release designs), there are two steps of loosening - first to loosen the nut up so it's touching the spring clip around the collet, second to push against the spring clip to pull the collet out of its tapered hole, so it'll open up and release the bit. On the P-C design (at least on my older one), you can see this spring clip, so you can watch the nut hit the clip; keep going after that. It's really easy to think that you've done all the loosening when you hit the first point (DAMHIKT), but you need to persist until you've pulled the collet free. You can feel it get kinda loose when it does.

If you've done that, and the collet appears to be operating the way it should, and the router bit you've got still won't fit, you may have a bum router bit. Try a 1/4" drill bit (the smooth end, not the fluted one, and make sure it's got no burrs on it, as so many drill bits do), or locate a neighbor who's a router user and see if s/he's got some bits you can try in the collet. I've never seen a bit with an oversize shank, but it could happen. Look closely at the bit to see if there's any evidence of burrs on the shank - if you don't own a magnifying glass, this is the time to get one; they're invaluable in the shop. Any drug store will have a selection; a big round one, 4" or so, with a handle, is better than a little one.

Confirm that the bit does indeed have a 1/4" shank, too. There are a handful of bits out there - not common in consumer settings - with 8mm (roughly 5/16") or 3/8" shanks.

If these diagnostic steps confirm that the collet's not taking bits, then call the 800 number you've got - there used to be, and still should be, an 800 number for tech support or customer service, and the sales number folks will have it.

Otherwise, take it back to the store, or, if you bought it online, call their customer service line. You should act early, while the ink's still drying on your check (or the electrons are still settling down after transferring your money); you'll get better response.

[Thomas Knighton]

Heather,

Thanks. I'll have to give that one a shot. It's worth a try.

Bill,

I did verify that it's a 1/4" shank (Bosch bit if that matters). The inner part of the collet seems about as loose as is humanly possible without something being wrong, but I'll sit down and play around with it a bit and see if it can loosen any more.

Thanks to both of you for your help!

Tom

[Andrew Nemeth]

Try removing the whole collet from the router and see if you can fit the bit in comfortably this way. This will eliminate any chance that it is the taper from the motor shaft is compressing the sleeve that holds the bit. Sometimes I have to loosen the collet nut and pull the sleeve out to release it from the tapered houseing before inserting a new bit.

[pat warner]

Insert a long shanked bit from the machine end of the collet.

If it fits, pull it just short of exiting the business end of the collet and insert a bit of your choice. Let that one push the other one out.

New collets often require a little use before they take tool bits the way they should.

Routers (http://www.patwarner.com)

[Thomas Knighton]

Try removing the whole collet from the router and see if you can fit the bit in comfortably this way. This will eliminate any chance that it is the taper from the motor shaft is compressing the sleeve that holds the bit. Sometimes I have to loosen the collet nut and pull the sleeve out to release it from the tapered houseing before inserting a new bit.

I already tried this. It was completely out of the router, and still nothing. :(

I'm thinking that it's possible that this collet is just defective...which would be my luck. I finally get a PC tool, and it's after B&D turn it into the glorified Firestorm line :o


Insert a long shanked bit from the machine end of the collet.

If it fits, pull it just short of exiting the business end of the collet and insert a bit of your choice. Let that one push the other one out.

New collets often require a little use before they take tool bits the way they should.

Routers (http://www.patwarner.com)

The problem is that the collet opening, on either end, won't open enough to accept any shank. I could understand it being tight, but I honestly can't even get the bit to start in the collet. Is this what you're talking about? Or is this something else?

Thanks for the help!

Tom

[pat warner]

TK, unless the collet has been smashed it will accept a shank but the collet must be opened a bit x a shank coming through the other end.
Tap in the one from the machine end if necessary.

I have tested, abused, used, dropped, smashed, closed a couple with no shanks etc, never had one that would not accept a cutter the way I described.

[Larry Edgerton]

If it is loosen up the nut just so it runs free and tap on the side of the nut with the wrench. I never use the self release collar on the collet, I just loosen it and if the bit does not come out I give the nut a tap. I have 27 Porter Cable routers at last count and I have never had the issue that you are describing.

I was bummed when B&D, the whores of the tool marketplace bought Porter Cable. They have already started to screw up one perfectly good tool after another. I am stocking up on the ones I really like so I can make it till I croak. I need a couple of 330 sanders and a few 3 1/4hp routers before they are gone.

Does B&D and Dewalt actually try to use their tools before they sell them, or do they just try to make them look like ghetto sneakers and hope they sell?

[Joel Goodman]

Try Pat Warner's advice -- he is the router guru!

[Thomas Knighton]

TK, unless the collet has been smashed it will accept a shank but the collet must be opened a bit x a shank coming through the other end.
Tap in the one from the machine end if necessary.

I'll give it a shot. Like I said though, it just isn't open enough to accept a shank. The 1/2" collet works just fine though, which is the only way I know how these things are supposed to work.


I have tested, abused, used, dropped, smashed, closed a couple with no shanks etc, never had one that would not accept a cutter the way I described.

Yeah...I'm usually the lucky one ;)

Tom
who is very frustrated with this router right now.

[Thomas Knighton]

After tapping in a bit from the machine end, I still wasn't able to get the collet opened up enough to freely accept a bit. Instead, I managed to booger up the bit and actually break the collet (the inner part of the collet actually had a quarter of it break off while I was trying to free the bit).

I can't say anything else except this must have been a defective collet from the start. The way this thing broke, I wonder if there was a flaw in the manufacture of it that allowed this to happen, some anomoly that normally gets caught in routine QC that didn't make it through this time.

Oh well...live and learn ;)

[Steve Clardy]

Thomas. Private message me your address and I will send you a free 1/4 collet.
I have plenty of extras.
Steve

[Thomas Knighton]

Steve,

PM sent!

[pat warner]

Clearly a bad collet.

[Thomas Knighton]

Agreed. However, because my experience was so alien to folks "in the know" such as yourself Pat, I can't help be confident that I won't encounter this again ;)

Tom