CHOP Saw Blade

[Dean Thomas]

Greetings one and all.

I'm posting this on the turning forum because we usually understand our own needs better and can usually provide the info needed quicker.

I need to replace the blade on my chop saw. 10" machine that has plenty of power and seems to be well-aligned, but even with the so-called premium 40-tooth blade, I still get some tear-out with maple and other woods. Whacking pen blanks means that deep tear-out can cause issues on blanks that were not generously cut to begin with.

Of course, I would LOVE to be able to afford the Forrest Chopmaster, but it ain't gonna happen THIS Christmas. I've been looking at other options in the 80-tooth or even a 90-tooth Ridgid blade.

My request from y'all is this: What are you using for your chop saw for baby-butt smooth cuts? Brand, model, tooth count, and talk to me in terms of how you would explain or describe the cut, specifically in maple. Can I suggest words like "absolutely no tear-out", "very minor/shallow tear-out", "good for framing", or "digs oil wells in most wood". :p

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Dean, I've had good luck with the 12" 100-tooth Ridgid blade. I would imagine the performance of the 10" 80-tooth would be about the same.

[Mike Spanbauer]

I've used a forrest chopmaster on my mitersaw for years and been thoroughly satisfied with it.

They aren't cheap, but they cut very well.

The key is the blade geometry... negative rake hook (0-10 degree's) and an ATB blade for the best cuts, a triple chip grind for long life (can't have both I'm afraid, it's an either / or proposition).

Malcom's opinion is one I trust, if he says the Rigid blade is good... chances are it's a good one :)

mike

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dean I also use a chopmaster on my sliding miter saw. Cuts smooth. It is a 10 X 80. They aren't cheap but they do cut nice.

[Jeff Nicol]

Dean, There are plent of saw blades that would make it better but sometimes some simple things will help with out a new blade. I know in some of the harder brittle woods tear out and chipping can be a problem. To solve this wrap the blank with some masking tape at the cut and split the tape, this will stop the tear out. Another way is to use a backer board so it works like a zero clearence board on a table saw. When the blade cuts through the blank the backer keeps solid wood and not air behind the blank. And last but not least cutting as fast as the saw will go is surely going to cause chipping and tearout, so slow down and let the blade do its job.

Hope this helps and it is much cheaper than getting a new blade!

Jeff

[Hilel Salomon]

Forrest blades are great, but I've also had good results from the premium Amana saw blades which are substantially cheaper.
Luck, Hilel.

[Bruce Smith]

Get a Forrest Blade and be done with it. I use them on both my table saw
and compound miter saw, yes they are expensive but certainly worth every penny. Like they say you can cry once when you buy it or if you don't buy it, cry every time you use it. Treat yourself and get one I can assure you that you won't be dissapointed.

[Dean Thomas]

I own a woodworker II for my table saw, so I know very well the quality involved. That's what I'd really want to get. I just do not have the $$ right now. I may wait until the new year and I can pick up some overtime and purchase it then.

Jeff, all the info you provided is fine, but it's also stuff that I know and do. Some blades just plain cause tear-out. I have one of those right now. Fast, slow, medium speeds do not matter. Tears out little or bigger chunks of end grain. I'm trying to find a solution for the next few months that will be within my price range.

I'm also considering taking the blade to a quality sharpener to see if getting the darned thing sharpened by a pro will tune it up enough to improve the cut. Might not reach baby-bottom quality, but it might help enough to ward off purchase of a new blade so the $$ goes toward Chopmaster.

Thanks to all for your thoughts.

[Harvey M. Taylor]

What Jeff said. sharp blade and go slow. Max.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Dean, I think Mike S. is on the mark. Take a look at Freud's or Amana's site to see if they have a reasonably priced blade with minimal or even negative hook. That, more than tooth count, probably makes the bigger difference. Plus it is safer since there is less tendency to grab and lift the wood.

(after taking a quick look it appears that Freud's high-end blades have negative hook, but not their consumer line) :mad:

Jake

[scott spencer]

Dean - If you really want to minimize the amount of tearout, you'll need a blade that's less prone to tearout, and it'll be more due to the design and grind than the brand. A Hi-ATB grind has the lowest amount of tearout due to the slicing action of the steep top bevel. Combined with a high tooth count, low to negative hook angle, top quality materials, and precision manufacturing, you'll get the least amount of tearout possible. I'd suggest looking into something like the Infinity "Ultrasmooth" 010-080 (http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1198), Infinity 010-060 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Infinity_10_60_Tooth_General_Purpose_Saw_Blade_010 _060_epi/content_422331125380), Freud LU80 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Freud_F810_10_80_Tooth_Hyper_Finish_Precision_Cros scut_Blade/content_226805780100), Forrest Duraline (http://www.epinions.com/review/Forrest_DH101007100_Duraline_Hi_A_T_10_100_Tooth_5 _8_Arbor_100_Kerf_Melimine_Plywood_Cutting_Circula r_Saw_Blade/content_409287298692), CMT 255.080.10 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Cmt_255_080_10_10_x80ATB_Bore_5_8/content_410525077124), CMT 210.080.10 (http://www.amazon.com/CMT-210-080-10-Tooth-Melamine-Miter/dp/B000P4JP9S/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1229272897&sr=8-36), or equivalent....now ya just need to find a good deal on one. Oshlun makes one for ~ $42 (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B001KW00YI/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance), but I'm not sure if it's at the same level as the others....FWIW, their 40T is a good blade and excellent value.

[Casey Gooding]

If you want to avoid tearout, go with 80 or 96 teeth. I like Freud blades. They are less expensive than Forrest and I think they cut just as well.

[Jeff Nicol]

I guess I forgot to say that more teeth are better no matter who makes the blade. The 40 tooth blade you are using now is not really a good finishing blade if you want nice cuts. I don't own an expensive blade at all and I do just fine with the Oldham blades that menards sells here locally. I have a guy that sharpens them also and they are flawless when he is done! So buy what you afford, many more teeth and sell a few items and then buy the blade of your dreams! Good luck and don't give up the fight!

Sharp, More teeth and Patience, you will be rewarded....


Jeff

[Bruce McElhaney]

I've gone through several chop-saw blades over the years. Quality and cuts vary greatly. I use all Forrest blades on my table saw and highly recommend them if you have the money. I also use a Freud Ultimate Cutoff blade on my 12" chop saw, and 10" slider. My local Home Depot sells them. In my experience, Freud blades seem to be not quite as durable as Forest's blades (one Freud blade got a couple of teeth bent up when it caught a knot in a freak accident.) Plus they don't appear to hold their sharpness quite as long as Forrest blades, particularly in very dense hardwoods. Yet Freud's Ultimate cutoff blade offers an extremely smooth cut and at a good price.

[Larry Rupert]

I do a lot of "Fixing up" around the house, and am always ending up with little strips of 1x and other wood. I save these little strips and use them like backer boards, and when I do cuts on "important" stuff, I get no tearout at all.

I place the little strip behind the wood that I am cutting on my saw, and cut through. Instant improvement.

Sometimes these little strips are maybe 1/8" and they still work well. Try it, you'll be amazed at the difference. The strips aren't much good for anything else anyway, unless it's kindling wood. Larry

[Bill Embrey]

Second what Jeff said... I use a 40 tooth Dewalt blade, but go slow and I have 1/4" hardboard backer double sided taped to my saw to make a zero clearance back... no blowouts on purpleheart, walnut, maple, whatever I decide to cut...

The high dollar blades would be nice... but my chop saw is not just dedicated to pens/turning blanks... it also has to do about 40 to 50% duty as a general purpose remodel my 100 year old building saw... so it cuts a lot of cheap pine an other various stuff

[Jim Paulson]

Hi Dean,
I appreciated your question on chop saw blades and the discussion that came from it. Regarding your desire to get smooth cuts and avoiding tearing out from saw blades, I caught your comment "digs oil wells in most wood". I was a geologist in my former life. Did you by chance work for Texaco back in 1981-1984?

Jim

[Colin Wollerman]

I always use backer boards when doing fine cuts on the MS.
I got tired of messing with the clamps and drilled some holes in the movable fence plates on my 12" dewalt. I keep one of those screw top,ziplock, plastic containers with some screws that are the right length (and other helpful bits) for 3/4 backers. I can close the gap when needed by moving the fence plates. I keep a couple separate backer boards for miters.
I get good results. I was thinking of a zero clearance insert for the bottom but for now just lay down a board when needed.

Watch those fingers!:)
C

[Larry Edgerton]

I use mostly Freud LU85 blades on chop saws. The Forrest is an awesome blade but the reality of my business is that once in a while I have to cut dirty or manmade/prefinished materials that will be hard on a blade. I just buy a new blade and throw the old one out so the Freud price is a better deal. I have a stack of blades that need to be sharpened, but no one close who does it.

[Larry Edgerton]

I get good results. I was thinking of a zero clearance insert for the bottom but for now just lay down a board when needed.

Watch those fingers!:)
C

Colin, a trick I came up with for that is to use several layers of tape over the insert. All of the chop saws that I own, the insert is lower than the table. Doesn't seem logical but they are. I usually put three layers of lime green painters tape over the insert, trim the edges to the table with an Exacto and then cut thru it.
You now have a easy to see [lime green!] line of cut exactly where your saw will cut and bringing the height up slightly will help with material support at the blade. I change the way I mark so I can take advantage of the easy to see line. If, or I will say when, you get one of those cuts that stresses the blade and pushes it sideways opening up the insert cut, you just peel it off and throw on some new tape, takes maybe a minute and you are back to a perfect cut line.

[Steve Mawson]

Several folks mentioned sharpening. Forrest does sharpen as well. I had a Craftsman blade that I sent to Forrest and when it came back it cut almost as good as a Forrest, I was really impressed. That was a couple years ago and it is still sharp. Cuts smooth also, 40 tooth