Citric acid help please

[Frank Gilbert]

What is the formula for parts of powder to what liquid? I guess that would be water.
For the electrolysis method can a small battery charger be used?

I stated in a former post that I would not buy any used planes as my project tool list was too long. I will post photos etc of a Bailey #8 with grooved sole that I purchased the very next day. That has to be a sign of mental problems.

wkfinetools.com has great information about tool care and restoration though I couldn't fine the ratios needed to mix the solution.

[Ken Shepard]

For a great guide to using citric acid, check out this link:

http://www.tttg.org.au/php/tttg_Page.php?n=15&a=28

You can use just about any source of DC power for electrolysis. Most people use battery chargers.

Ken

[Frank Gilbert]

Which method do you favor?

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Been reading about "evapo rust" supposedly it's harmless to paint and other things and you can leave your item in it as long as you please with no ill effect.

Doesn't work in the cold tho.

[Ken Shepard]

I use Evaporust for small parts and electrolytic for larger pieces. Not that one method works better that the other, but it is easier to dump small hardware in a can of Evaporust. The stuff is not inexpensive, so I use electrolytic for parts that can't be covered with a quart of Evaporust. The stuff seems to last a long time so an investment in a gallon or so would probably be worth it. I just like the Mr. Wizard aspects of the electrolytic method.

I have no experience with citric acid. The other methods attack only the rust, but I have read that citric acid may etch the tool surface after removing the rust. This is probably not a major issue if you rinse thoroughly, but I think most tool restorers use Evaporust and/or electrolytic.

[Frank Gilbert]

I have been using mineral spirits followed with lacquer thinner both of which have serious negatives so many thanks. Where do you purchase?

Thanks again.

[Ken Shepard]

You can get Evaporust at AutoZone, directly from the source at www.evaporust.com, or from Harbor Freight stores or online. HF generally has the best price.

[Alan DuBoff]

You can get citric acid on ebay:

1 pound - 270278280934

2 pound - 280269432561

5 pound - 280269432899

No affiliation, just searched for "citric acid".

[Jim Koepke]

Citric acid is also available from wine making supply stores.

jim

[David Keller NC]

Frank - It is not necessary to use electrolysis with citric acid. Electrolysis might speed things up, but that isn't necessary either, and might be undesirable.

Here are short and sweet directions for using citric acid to remove rust on steel tools: Dissolve about 2 tablespoons of powdered citric acid in about a quart of hot water. Drop the tools into the bath so that they're completely covered. Wait 6 to 12 hours. Pull the tools out (you don't need gloves - citric's not strong enough to burn your hands), rinse them off thoroughly, dry them, and oil them.

That's it, no muss, no fuss. Moreover, the amounts above aren't critical - one tablespoon in a quart will work just as well, just a little slower.

[Michael Pauly]

If you already have a small battery charger, why not just go straight to electrolysis? A bit of wire, some pieces of sacrificial steel (I like to use rebar), appropriately sized container and some washing soda or baking soda. Still safe to the paint.....just remember to hook the electrodes up correctly DAMHIK.

A pretty comprehensive description here (http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm)
A rather elaborate setup here (http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/tech-exchange/467718-rust-removal-electrolysis.html)

Depending on the severity of rust, a few hours in the soak should remove most surface rust easily. Use a little time spent with steel wool or a scotch brite pad to clean up the oxidation.