Cabinet Saw Under $1500

[Arnold E Schnitzer]

I'm ready to upgrade to a cabinet saw. My needs are: riving knife, 230 volt single-phase, left-tilt, good dust hook-up. I'm hoping to see some real-world reviews/experiences here. Thanks!

[Jeff Duncan]

Real world huh.....ok 2 Unisaws, 1 53' paid $200, replaced fence for an additional $200 and was in business.
Newest Uni, mid-seventies version $235 w/ Beis 78" commercial fence and overarm guard included.
You want left tilt your gonna have a lot less options in the used market, but better to get what you want. Your looking at a used Powermatic 66, one of my favorite saws by the way. And probably going to spend about $1k for one in very good condition.
You want new....good luck, for your budget you'll be buying something from Asia. Personally I'd take a used 66 over anything that costs $1500 new. but that's just me:)
good luck,
JeffD

[Jason White]

If you want a riving knife, you're limited to new machines only (unless you get really, really lucky).



I'm ready to upgrade to a cabinet saw. My needs are: riving knife, 230 volt single-phase, left-tilt, good dust hook-up. I'm hoping to see some real-world reviews/experiences here. Thanks!

[scott spencer]

I've been pleased with the Shop Fox W1677 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Shop_Fox_W1677_3_Hp_10_Heavy_Duty_Left_Tilt_26_Rip _Capacity_Cabinet_Table_Saw/content_445951610500)...left tilt, 220v 1ph, 4" dust port and ramped bottom. It comes with a standard splitter, but Bob Ross offers a bolt on ripping knife (http://www.walnutacrewoodworking.com/Online_Store.php) (B-O-R-K for short) for the Griz 1023 and Shop Fox left tilt cab saws....it's an aftermarket riving knife that travels up and down and tilts with the blade...~ $125 IIRC.

The Grizzly G1023SL (~ $1150 shipped) is essentially the same saw as the SF....you can add the aftermarket riving knife, a mobile base, and decent blade, and should still be within budget.

Steel City might offer a cabinet saw with riving knife within your price range, but I'm not sure if it's a true industrial style cab saw or a hybrid with a 3hp motor.

[John Schreiber]

I'm in about the same place. I don't see any cabinet saws out there with a riving knife in that price range. I think that a riving knife is a very reasonable safety requirement though. SawStop is way out of my price range, but the safety of a riving knife should be in my price range.

I'm really leaning toward skipping the table saw all together though and going with one of the quality guided rail systems. The EZ Smart/Eurekazone products (they have a forum on this board) look like the way to go for something that will really replace a table saw, while further increasing safety and keeping cost down. The system also has some options which could make a chop saw unnecesary and some clever uses of their system with a router too.

[Brian Kerley]

Never used one, but heard good things.

Steel City 3HP, Left Tilt, Granite Top, 30" fence, riving knife, dust port, everything you are looking for. $1499 @ woodwerks or $1399 @ Tool King. Take your pick, but shipping will add a little.

[Paul Ryan]

Arnold,

I think you are going to have a hard time filling that shopping list for $1500 or less from any other brand than Steel city. I personally own that steel city 35905G the 3hp granite topped saw with 30in fence. I paid $1299 back in April. I just checked it is going for $1399 right now. You can get the cast iron version for $50 less and the 50" fence for $100 more. So of you want a granit topped it would just squeeze in under your budget, or save $50 for the cast version.
I really haven't posted a review for my saw yet even though I had planed on it.
I was alittle dissapointed with start up and shut off vibrations when I first got it. But that was being caused by not fitting snugly in the mobile base it is on. I have since pounded door shims between the edges of saw and the base. That has helped the saw fit tight to the base and lessen the vibrations greatly.
The saw is a little underpowered for a 3hp if you ask me. I expected it to have a little more power than it does. I have bogged it down ripping 2 in stock hard maple and white oak. Now I was using the 40 tooth combo blade that the saw came with. Since I have changed to a 40 tooth freud combo blade that is thin kerf but I have not ripped anything that thick with the freud blade so I can comment on performance with this blade. My other complaint is something I saw some one else mention was that the measuring tape stuck on the fence rail seems to expand and contract with the weather. I adjusted the fence measurement when I changed blades but when the spring weather changed to the hot humid weather we have in the summer the taped seemed to change length. And since we move to winter it has seemed to change again. Those are my really only concerns.
What I can say is that the saw still has plenty of power for me and I think if I put in a rip blade I wouldn't have any problem. And then there is the fence, it is the beauty of this machine. It is just awesome. It slides so easy locks so tight and is very easily adjusted if needed. The riving knife
is easly removed if needed. The dust collection is excellent with my small 1hp delt collector. The granite top is really nice.
There were long threads here about people being worried about granite being durable. I can tell you it is not an issue. I know if you take care of this saw the top with last longer than you and I. And you dont have to worry about rust pits. My shop is an unheated steel pole garage. So I have plenty of problems with condensation in the spring expecially. That is the reason I went with the granite and I am happy I did. It is so hard and unless you abuse this top you wont have a problem. I would worry about the durabliy of cast compared to this. There were guys worried about banging wood against it and cracking it. Trust me unless you tip the saw over or beat on the top with a hammer you arn't going to crack it. I know you will crack cast just as easy if you abuse it.
The only reason I would recomend against the granite would be if you plan on drilling the top for jigs or like to use magnetic fixtures then it is not for you. But if you can live with out those two things I would go with the granite. As far as competion jet and grizzly would be the next closest competitors with riving knifes but thouse will put you well over your budget. If you go to steel cities web sight you should be able to find your nearest distrubitor and go look at one. Good luck!

[Chip Lindley]

My .02 supports the purchase of a used Powermatic 66.

June '07 I purchased a 1998 model, Baldor 3hp 1ph, 50" Accu Fence, Mobile stand, Overarm blade guard w/dust collection, WITH Exaktor sliding table!!! at auction for *drumroll*... $1175. Finally, the saw of my dreams at about a fourth the price of everything included.

In general, older machinery is better made (in USA) and offers much more *Bang For The Buck* than New. (IMHO)

Almost forgot!! the PM66 came with a Biesemeyer anti kickback riving knive TOO.....

[Brian Kerley]

Almost forgot!! the PM66 came with a Biesemeyer anti kickback riving knive TOO.....

Hate to correct you, but that's just a splitter, not a riving knife. The riving knife travels up and down with the blade, as well as at angles, so you never have to remove it, even for cuts that aren't through the entire board. It's a pretty slick setup if you've ever seen one. Very, very safe. Good to hear about that PM66 score! Mine probably wasn't quite as good of a deal, just a 1966 PM66 (yeah, the green with a stripe, first year) for about $400.

[Chip Lindley]

Is why I almost forgot...I never use the *splitter* except for long rips in squirrely hardwood to keep the kerf from closing. I was only adding to the value of my *Gloat* saw purchase with the addition of another $149 worth of hardware.

I did 10 minutes research online for *Splitter*/*Riving knife* and found that most offerings are just about what I have, OR a whole lot more! Most riving knives are combined with a blade guard and do not raise or lower with the blade. They also include anti-kickback pawls. Not sure to which specific saw you are referring, but no worries, I have more than I need now.

[Jon Todd]

I have the Jet Xacta deluxe with Riving Knife, 3HP 220V with 52 inch fence and it came with the side table and mobile base. I love it, And I got it used for probably 1 hour At the most. I payed 700.00


http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/Jet_saw_2-3-08_012.jpg

[Andy Casiello]

Most riving knives are combined with a blade guard and do not raise or lower with the blade.

That's not correct. Riving knives differ from splitters in that they ride up and down with the blade, and are independent from other blade guards or dust collector components.

[Grant Vanbokklen]

I did 10 minutes research online for *Splitter*/*Riving knife* and found that most offerings are just about what I have, OR a whole lot more! Most riving knives are combined with a blade guard and do not raise or lower with the blade. They also include anti-kickback pawls. Not sure to which specific saw you are referring, but no worries, I have more than I need now.


Fine Woodworking video about the Riving Knife (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31896)

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I have the Jet Xacta deluxe with Riving Knife, 3HP 220V with 52 inch fence and it came with the side table and mobile base. I love it, And I got it used for probably 1 hour At the most. I payed 700.00




Jon, you get my vote for steal of the month!

[Chip Lindley]

In spite of fact that the FFW video will not load, and I cannot peek at the eight FWW reviews of new riving knive-equipped saws for 2009 without the *membership,* I yield to your point that a riving knife is just that.

Do your own Google search and see how many manufacturers tout their splitter/pawl/guard combos as riving knives. Everyone is jumping on the bandwagon now I suppose. Since I got a freebie Biesemeyer non-riving knife included with my Gloat PM66, I am more than happy, and now am going to bed. ni ni !!

[Rick Fisher]

I have the Shop Fox W1711 Cabinet saw. Its under $1500.00 Mine is 7 years old now. Its never given me any trouble.

I dont know how it compares to others but the trunnions seem heavy duty. The controls are smooth and easy.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010542.jpg


This isnt a great picture. I took it because there is a nut that appears to be missing above the motor. I have never followed it up. Noticed it the other day..

Not trying to hijack at all.. This sorta gives you an idea of the innards.

[Brian Kerley]

They're all required to have riving knives now, so that's why everyone is jumping on the bandwagon. The US market is finally catching up to where the euro's have been for the last few years in this department. A riving knife is a huge improvement in safety.

[Arnold E Schnitzer]

Thanks for all the great info, folks. I think I'll find a dealer and check out the Steel City saws, though I think they might be a bit flimsy for my needs. I don't like the idea of a granite top, as I like to use a magnetic featherboard. Is anyone making a retrofit riving knife, or does that require a complete redesign?

[Chip Lindley]

Thanks for the heavy duty pix Rick! Your TS is a Unisaw clone which is a tried and true design, forsure! Is hard to go wrong with this design! I could not help but notice you are missing a bolt holding your motor onto its bracket. Without this bolt, the full weight of motor will keep stretching the belts over time, adding extra stress and wear on them. With my unisaw, I allowed the motor weight to pull the belts down tensioned for part of a day. Then I tightened the bolt securely. Belts are tensioned, and belt life is extended many-fold!

[Bob Genovesi]

Real world huh.....Personally I'd take a used 66 over anything that costs $1500 new. but that's just me :) good luck,
JeffD

I'll second this, Me Too!!

[David Keller NC]

"This isnt a great picture. I took it because there is a nut that appears to be missing above the motor. I have never followed it up. Noticed it the other day."

You are indeed missing the belt-tensioning nut (and bolt). It's not a dangerous situation, but it will significantly reduce the power your TS will develop, and will excessively wear the belt. Worth fixing for a couple of bucks from the hardware store.

[John Ricci]

After looking at that pic it struck me that in addition to hastening belt wear would it not also allow the motor to "hop" under a heavy load? Definitely worth the small expense of a nut and bolt to fix it. It looks somewhat unsafe to me.

J.R.

[Peter Quinn]

I have the Shop Fox W1711
I dont know how it compares to others but the trunnions seem heavy duty. The controls are smooth and easy.


I don't know how it compares to others either, but I have a PM66 and use several old ones at work. I don't have a photo but that same perspective seen on a 66, all you will see is motor and trunnion....miles and miles (or should I say pounds and pounds) of trunnion. :rolleyes:A lot of trunnion. Nothing but trunnion. Very stout trunnion. Seriously large heavy trunnion. Big baldor motor too, with an interesting cast iron yoke mounted to....a massive trunnion. Did I mention it has a large trunnion?:D You look in the cabinet and all you can see is a giant black iron box, you can't even see the blade or arbor, just the trunnion....:eek:

Oh, one more vote for a used PM66 if you can find one. There is a reason people will buy a 35 year old saw for upwards of $1000, cause unless seriously abused and damaged they still work as if new, worst that can happen is they need new bearings? All I see around here are three phase.

A riving knife is nice, but a biesmeyer splitter like Chip has (and I have) works pretty well too, I still have all my teeth. You will hear people tell you that a riving knife is essential because it much closer to the blade when the blade is lower. Thats true, but thats also when the blade is much less likely to throw you a kick back at the beginning of a cut. Once you get 1/2" deeper into the cut, you are getting the same protection with either device where it counts. The critical weakness of a bies splitter is the user. If you don't put it in, it doesn't help, where as a riving knife can be left in all the time, which should help protect those forgetful types that haven't noticed the giant whirling blade spinning their direction at 3450RPM with nothing behind it to keep the kerf open.:D

I have heard the argument made with a straight face by professionals "What if you drop something on the blade after a non through cut where your splitter is removed? A riving knife would still offer protection, and accidents do happen!" Sure, if you are the kind of wood worker that likes to dangle work pieces over a spinning blade or one of those complete morons I see too lazy to push the wood all the way past the blade and step around to the out feed side to retrieve the work piece but prefers to reach over the blade with a tenuous grasp to retrieve the work piece, then by all means a riving knife is necessary and nothing else will do. In fact a hand saw may be in order.

Don't get me wrong, if I were buying a new saw, I'd be looking for a riving knife too. But if you are on a budget, want a serious cabinet saw and don't find satisfaction in any of the few options in your price range, a good used machine with a good splitter can be good option to consider.

[scott spencer]

I don't know how it compares to others either, but I have a PM66 and use several old ones at work. I don't have a photo but that same perspective seen on a 66, all you will see is motor and trunnion....miles and miles (or should I say pounds and pounds) of trunnion. :rolleyes:A lot of trunnion. Nothing but trunnion. Very stout trunnion. Seriously large heavy trunnion. Big baldor motor too, with an interesting cast iron yoke mounted to....a massive trunnion. Did I mention it has a large trunnion?:D You look in the cabinet and all you can see is a giant black iron box, you can't even see the blade or arbor, just the trunnion....:eek:



PM66 trunnion:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/PM66-B.jpg

Griz 1023SL/Shop Fox 1677 trunnion:

http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg500/g/g1023sl_det1.jpg

Griz 1023S trunnion:
http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg500/g/g1023s_det1.jpg

Steel City industrial cab saw trunnion:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/sccabtrunnion-1.jpg

[John Schreiber]

. . . Is anyone making a retrofit riving knife, or does that require a complete redesign?
None of the big guys are, but there's a guy who is. He runs Walnut Acre Woodworking (http://shop.walnutacrewoodworking.com/product.sc?categoryId=1&productId=6)and has produced what he calls the Bolt on Ripping Knife.

I applaud his creativity and think it's great that he is working on increasing safety, but I'd feel more comfortable with a riving knife which was designed into the saw. If I already had a cabinet saw though, I would consider this retrofit.

[Todd Crawford]

PM66 are $1999 at Woodcraft right now. A little more than your price range, but a great deal.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=816127&FamilyID=60008

[Grant Vanbokklen]

In spite of fact that the FFW video will not load, and I cannot peek at the eight FWW reviews of new riving knive-equipped saws for 2009 without the *membership,* I yield to your point that a riving knife is just that.

Do your own Google search and see how many manufacturers tout their splitter/pawl/guard combos as riving knives. Everyone is jumping on the bandwagon now I suppose. Since I got a freebie Biesemeyer non-riving knife included with my Gloat PM66, I am more than happy, and now am going to bed. ni ni !!


Jet offered a free month of December of Fine Woodworking online. There is still half the month left. There is some other great stuff as well as you viewing the Riving Knife video link I posted.

Free December to FWW from Jet Tools (http://x.jmxded27.net/y.z?l=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.finewoodworking.com%2Fjetde csweep&e=12012)

[Rick Fisher]

Not too hijack but I downloaded the manual for the Shop fox with the missing nut..

Finally.

That nut was removed because it also held a "motor shipping bracket". I guess I removed it to assemble the saw and never put it back on.

That was 6 years ago? Possibly 7 years ago..

That nut has never been there. :eek:

I have made that saw do some pretty ugly cutting, ripping over the years.. I will definately install that nut... finally.

[Arnold E Schnitzer]

The PM66 is an awesome deal, and I may consider it. But right now I have a lead on a slightly used Sawstop for $2000! Wish me luck.

[Andy Casiello]

PM66 trunnion:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/PM66-B.jpg

Griz 1023SL/Shop Fox 1677 trunnion:

http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg500/g/g1023sl_det1.jpg



:eek::eek::eek: :confused:

[John Dougherty]

Usually, if the riving knife is properly set up, very rarely will you need to remove it. The top should not extend above the blade so even when the cut is not a through cut, you can leave it in place. About the only time you would need to remove a riving knife is for a plunge cut or a diagonal coving cut.

[Jason Hanko]

The new Grizzly Catalog has a model that seems to fit your bill. The G0690 or G0691 (pages 22-23). It not on their website yet for some reason but heres the specs:
3HP 220V Motor, 15amp, left tilt
4'' dust port
T-slot miter
and...Riving Knife!

G0690 is $1250 (27''x40'' table)
G0691 is $1350 (extension table upgrade to 27'' x 63'')

Im actually drooling a little:D

[Mike Heidrick]

PM66 trunnion:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/PM66-B.jpg

Griz 1023SL/Shop Fox 1677 trunnion:

http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg500/g/g1023sl_det1.jpg

Griz 1023S trunnion:
http://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg500/g/g1023s_det1.jpg

Steel City industrial cab saw trunnion:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/sccabtrunnion-1.jpg

Pretty awesome pictures. Every 1023SL owner should print this out, laminate it, and post it in their shop.

[Dar Lounsbury]

Woodwerks.com is showing a price of $849 for a Steel City 10", 3 HP, 50" table. Not the granite top but it is a heck of a lot of saw for $849. Leaves enough to add a router setup in the wing or ..........?

If I had a little more space, I would buy one in a heartbeat and set it up for 3/4" dado only. I really get tired of changing tooling just to change it back again later.

Dar

[Jim O'Dell]

The new Grizzly Catalog has a model that seems to fit your bill. The G0690 or G0691 (pages 22-23). It not on their website yet for some reason but heres the specs:
3HP 220V Motor, 15amp, left tilt
4'' dust port
T-slot miter
and...Riving Knife!

G0690 is $1250 (27''x40'' table)
G0691 is $1350 (extension table upgrade to 27'' x 63'')

Im actually drooling a little:D

Jason, I haven't gotten my new Griz catalog yet, are there any exploded views of the saw? Wondering if the trunnion is as beefy as the 1023 series. This is a lot less than the TS model they came out with last year with the riving knife set up. (G0651-1795.00) Is this more the Hybrid style? Can you tell from the catalog? Thanks! Jim.

edit: interestingly, they show the manual on line for the G0690!! It's down loading now.

[Jim O'Dell]

OK, I think I've found my next TS!! :D The manual shows a very nice saw. It appears, would still like to see actual photos, that the trunnion set up is equally beefy to the 1023 series. The G0691 with the longer rails would be a steal at 1350.00. The weight of this saw shows to be 590 lbs. the G0690 is 550. I'm guessing the shipping to be 146.50, the same as the 615 lb 12" saw. Actually the 1023 series is the same shipping price. At 1500.00, I might have to wait a while for the mobile base. At least I have something to save for!! Jim.

edit: Oh, and the dust port for a left tilt is on the right side of the cabinet under the tilt wheel!!!!!! I can't believe it!!!!!! Someone listened!! Looks to be easy to modify to 6"!! Thanks Shiraz!!!!!!!

[Jason Hanko]

I scanned in the page from my catalog. Grizzly G0690 (http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f186/uwbandman/GrizzlyG0690003.jpg)

Trunnion looks pretty beefy to me, altho its not the monster of the 1023S.

[Bob Genovesi]

Trying to meet your budget and maintain a high level of quality take a look at Grizzly. This is a tough saw to beat at any price....

G1023SLX 10" Table Saw 3 HP Single-Phase 220V Left-Tilt

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/g1023slx.jpg

Features:


3 HP, single-phase, 220V motor
Solid cast iron table is first heat treated to remove warpage, then milled perfectly flat and ground to a mirror-like finish
Table has T-slots so your miter gauge will not fall off the table when retracted
44" x 27" extension table
Extra-large handwheels are the heaviest in the industry and really ease arbor movement
Cutting capacity: 8" left and 54" right of blade
7' rails
Maximum depth of cut @ 90º: 3"
Maximum depth of cut @ 45º: 2-1/8"
5/8" diameter arbor is long enough to accept dado blades up to 13/16"
One-piece steel cabinet-type stand
Magnetic safety switch is standard and protects the motor and operator
All sealed ball bearing construction
Triple V-belt drive
Powder coated paint
4" dust port included
Base dimension: 20-1/2" x 20-1/2"
Approximate shipping weight: 494 lbs.

[Arnold E Schnitzer]

I scanned in the page from my catalog. Grizzly G0690 (http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f186/uwbandman/GrizzlyG0690003.jpg)

Trunnion looks pretty beefy to me, altho its not the monster of the 1023S.

Looks interesting. Many thanks for your help. I'm going to hold off for a bit on this, as I decided my bandsaw needs were more pressing (I'm waiting for my Laguna LT-18). But that Grizzly saw looks like it could meet my needs.

[Jason Hanko]

Looks interesting. Many thanks for your help. I'm going to hold off for a bit on this, as I decided my bandsaw needs were more pressing (I'm waiting for my Laguna LT-18). But that Grizzly saw looks like it could meet my needs.

Yeah, I wish I had the funding for this. I was very excited to see a Grizz TS in this price range this year that had a riving knife.
A TS is a ways off in my purchase plan tho - I need a jointer and DC first I think. In the mean time I'll keep getting by with my cheapo Jet Contractor Saw.

[Jim O'Dell]

I scanned in the page from my catalog. Grizzly G0690 (http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f186/uwbandman/GrizzlyG0690003.jpg)

Trunnion looks pretty beefy to me, altho its not the monster of the 1023S.

Thanks Jason! It is hard to tell, but I think you are right that it may be a little bit lighter. I've emailed Grizzly asking if it is, and if they have it, the weights of the two different trunnions. Will be interesting if they have the answer. I'll report back if I hear. Jim.

[Alan DuBoff]

I've been pleased with the Shop Fox W1677 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Shop_Fox_W1677_3_Hp_10_Heavy_Duty_Left_Tilt_26_Rip _Capacity_Cabinet_Table_Saw/content_445951610500)...left tilt, 220v 1ph, 4" dust port and ramped bottom.
Scott,

Did you get rid of your zipcode saw and get another one?

I think you have owned more table saws than just about anyone I know...:)

EDIT: in reading that review on epinions, I see you did in fact get another saw. But I thought you had 4 saws, looks like you've only had 3. Nice review, but "once in a lifetime" on a saw from China? :confused: I guess we all feel it's a once in a lifetime opportunity when it seems that it's something we may never have the opportunity to buy again, I felt that way about the table saw I found (http://www.softorchestra.com/woodworking/tools/yates-american/Picture_001.jpg) also...it has a 5HP motor connected directly to the blade! ;)

[Jim O'Dell]

Got a reply from Griz today. They don't have the new saws here yet, so they don't know. They are due to receive them at the end of the month. So, I'll need to remember to ask again by the middle of Feb to see if they have the information.
I'm about 10% there (money wise). I'm sure I've got enough time to get the rest. :D Jim.

[Jason Hanko]

Great, keep us informed!

[lou sansone]

just as a historical note.... some of the very good u.s. saws had riving knives back in the 40's - oliver to name one, it is not really something new to the u.s market in the industrial area, but it is when it comes to the 3 hp cabinet saws

great feature by the way.

[Alan DuBoff]

just as a historical note.... some of the very good u.s. saws had riving knives back in the 40's - oliver to name one, it is not really something new to the u.s market in the industrial area, but it is when it comes to the 3 hp cabinet saws

great feature by the way.
Lou,

Did the Olivers have a knife that raised and lowered with the blade?

My Yates-American has a splitter that will tilt, but not lift/lower with the blade. I thought the Oliver was like that also.

EDIT: I'm adding a pic of my splitter, would like to see how Oliver did it.

[Dirk Lewis]

None of the big guys are ... .

Wrong, General Canada makes a retrofit riving knife for ~$800 Canuck Bucks :eek: