Al Navas
12-12-2008, 7:59 AM
I am sure that most of you are experienced at hand-cut dovetails, and can cut them MUCH better than I ever could. But I wanted to share this, in the hope of helping those just starting.
From my blog:
A reader of my blog has had trouble cutting to the line when hand-cutting dovetails. Therefore, she would like to improve the fit, by making sure to better cut to the line. I promised I would try to document how I do it.
I found that using either the index finger fingernail, or the thumb fingernail, to create a "fence" for the saw, works best for me. Threrefore, I first place the fingernail exactly on the line, and then I place the saw on the board:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-1.png
(http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-1.png)
Once the saw is on the board, I sight down the cheek of the saw to the extent I can - the back gets in the way, as it is considerably thicker than the saw blade. By sighting down the cheek I get the best feel for the angle at which to hold the saw, thus giving me a good chance at being able to get the angle correctly. Note that the saw appears to be quite a distance to the right of the mark in this photo - THIS is exactly what it should look like:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-2.png
(http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-2.png)
Keeping my finger/nail "fence" in place, and using a very light touch, I start the cut on the push motion (if using a Japanese saw, you must start the cut using a pull motion). Some people refer to this light touch as de-weighting the saw (I think this is the most-used term). This "light touch" also means that you are exerting on the saw *only* the force required to push and pull the saw on the board - no more, and no less.
Once the kerf is established, I remove my finger "fence" and complete the cut while sighting down the cheek of the saw. If the saw is not following the line, I do not try to correct it by steering the saw. It is impossible to do so with a dovetail saw, and it is also not recommended. The best thing to do: Start over.
I am certain that when I first started my hand-cut dovetails practice sessions I was tense, and therefore it was difficult to start the cut on the push motion. And I was amazed at how easy it was once I used as light a touch as possible.
It took me a while to realize this *is* the proper way to be to best cut to the line. With very minor adjustments it is possible to even "split the line" - provided, of course, that the line is wide enough to be "split".
During the Dovetails session at Woodworking in America (http://sandal-woodsblog.com/?s=WIA+-+Dovetailing%3A) (Parts 1, 2, and 3), Frank Klausz recommended to "...split the line when cutting the pins; and cut on the waste side of the line - the pins side - when cutting the tails..." Of course, Klausz cuts pins first.
.
From my blog:
A reader of my blog has had trouble cutting to the line when hand-cutting dovetails. Therefore, she would like to improve the fit, by making sure to better cut to the line. I promised I would try to document how I do it.
I found that using either the index finger fingernail, or the thumb fingernail, to create a "fence" for the saw, works best for me. Threrefore, I first place the fingernail exactly on the line, and then I place the saw on the board:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-1.png
(http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-1.png)
Once the saw is on the board, I sight down the cheek of the saw to the extent I can - the back gets in the way, as it is considerably thicker than the saw blade. By sighting down the cheek I get the best feel for the angle at which to hold the saw, thus giving me a good chance at being able to get the angle correctly. Note that the saw appears to be quite a distance to the right of the mark in this photo - THIS is exactly what it should look like:
http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-2.png
(http://sandal-woodsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hc-dts-marking-2.png)
Keeping my finger/nail "fence" in place, and using a very light touch, I start the cut on the push motion (if using a Japanese saw, you must start the cut using a pull motion). Some people refer to this light touch as de-weighting the saw (I think this is the most-used term). This "light touch" also means that you are exerting on the saw *only* the force required to push and pull the saw on the board - no more, and no less.
Once the kerf is established, I remove my finger "fence" and complete the cut while sighting down the cheek of the saw. If the saw is not following the line, I do not try to correct it by steering the saw. It is impossible to do so with a dovetail saw, and it is also not recommended. The best thing to do: Start over.
I am certain that when I first started my hand-cut dovetails practice sessions I was tense, and therefore it was difficult to start the cut on the push motion. And I was amazed at how easy it was once I used as light a touch as possible.
It took me a while to realize this *is* the proper way to be to best cut to the line. With very minor adjustments it is possible to even "split the line" - provided, of course, that the line is wide enough to be "split".
During the Dovetails session at Woodworking in America (http://sandal-woodsblog.com/?s=WIA+-+Dovetailing%3A) (Parts 1, 2, and 3), Frank Klausz recommended to "...split the line when cutting the pins; and cut on the waste side of the line - the pins side - when cutting the tails..." Of course, Klausz cuts pins first.
.