Dovetail jigs -- once again

[Ray Schafer]

OK, I know that there are threads out there which evaluate dovetail jigs. Many of them (the threads) are quite old. I hope that you will forgive me for opening this topic again, but I want to see what the current thinking is -- especially on the budget versions. I am confused and don't know what to do.

From what I read, it seems like:
The Akeda jig is well liked as top of the line.
The Leigh Jig also seems very well liked for top of the line.

The PC seems to be a mid-range jig that is well-liked

The Rockler, MLCS, Katie and Keller seem like budget jigs that are OK for occasional use.

I don't plan to use a lot of dovetails, but if I could find a jig that truly made it easy, without breaking the bank, who knows ... I might really get into it.

I was going to buy the MLCS, but my current thinking is that I would either buy the PC, or wait for an Akeda jig on craigslist or ebay. After all, I am not really in a hurry to start dovetails -- no immediate need.

Thoughts?

[Brian Penning]

I have the Porter-Cable 4212. Like it, and the best thing about it for me is the learning curve is relatively short when I pull it out once or twice a year.
Other big help that makes it easier is dedicating 2 routers for the jig -1 for the pins and 1 for the tails.

[David Moody]

It is worth looking at these jigs again since there have been a few changes in the past 12 months.

Don't forget the new PC Omnijig (not the old one). It is quite a whoseedo, as well.

Since I just acquired one (the PC Omnijig) a few months ago, my buying process is pretty fresh on my mind. Here was my checklist of characteristics that made for the final decisions:

1) How often was I going to do dovetails?
2) What did I project to be the range of dovetails I would be doing (through, half blind, variable spaced, variable size, sliding, etc.) that would be facilitated by a jig? (this item here could reduce the decision to not getting a jig at all and doing them by hand, instead, or use simple templates).
3) What was the maximum stock size (width and thickness) I would likely be working?
4) What could I fit in my shop? What else would I need to mount it?
5) Which accessories would be necessary and which would be optional with any given candidate jig? How would they contribute to the cost? What would be the end cost?
6) What desirable characteristics would be show stoppers (i.e., they would drop the jig from consideration)? For instance, variable spacing could knock out quite a few jigs. Variable sizing, a few more.
7) Were there videos or other visual demonstrations of the jig so I could get some sense as to how it is used?

There were others, of course, but those were the biggies.

In the end, the Leigh and Omnijig were the two top runners for me. I think they are both excellent tools. However, I was able to easily get the 24" Omnijig using my Amex points and I liked a few bonus features with it (the bit depth gauges have been extremely useful, for instance, and I like its clamps). Its recipe approach documented on its body has certainly saved me a lot of time, as well, and that was obvious to me from the videos.

Anyhow, I hope that helps a bit. It was useful for me at the time.

[Dan Bertenthal]

I purchased the Leigh Superjig instead of the top of the line D4R and am quite pleased. I got tight dovetails on my first practice run. The instructional video is quite good and learning to use the jig is not rocket science as some people have claimed.

It does have some limitations compared to the D4R which may or may not be a concern, the chief one being that you're limited to 3/4" stock or thinner. You're also limited to narrow pins of a fixed-size (though narrow pins are traditional, and as I see it, the strength of the Leigh design is that it approximates the look of handcut dovetails reasonably well--if that's not what you're after, save money and go with a less expensive jig).

Overall, Leigh did a really good job of developing a less-costly jig that has most of the functionality as it's big brother.

d

[Matt Benton]

While I haven't used the Leigh, I have the new 24" Omnijig. Granted, I haven't used it either, yet, but I can tell you that it is very well built, and looks to be very easy to use...

[Ralph Wiggum]

I have been looking at the Leigh jigs. I have used a friends D4 once. But what are the differences between it and the Super Jig line? I have not seen one of the super jigs in person, just pictures on the web.

[Ron Bontz]

Ralph, If you go to Leigh's site, they have a comparison chart. Or did anyway. The D4 does a little more than the super jig I believe. I like my D4.:)

[Greg Hines, MD]

I recently purchased an Incra Jig for doing dovetails and box joints. Given, there are numerous permutations of the Incra system but it can do a great number of joints, and when you factor in the cost of a dovetail jig, router table fence, box joint jig, etc, the cost of even one of the more expensive Incra systems starts to look more economical.

Doc

[Jim Becker]

What kind of dovetails? If you only need half-blinds (for drawers) and are fine with an unwavering regular spacing, the PC42xx machines are very nice and high quality. If you want or need either variable spacing and/or through dovetails in addition to half-blind, look at the Leigh or Akeda offerings as well as the new high-end PC setup. If you only need through dovetails...cut them by hand or get the Keller jig.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

As far as a bullet proof rock solid reliable Jig the PC Omnijig is unbeatable. The only reason you don't find people gravitating to it more is the fact that you gotta buy the movable DT guide rack s separately and it's not cheap.

The Leigh lets you move your guides freely and an awful lot of guys like that option most.

I have both the Leigh D4 and the Omnijug with the movable guide rack and I gotta say I like the PC better.

[David Moody]

Cliff,
Are you referring to the half-blind sliding dovetail template when you say "movable dovetail guide rack"? Because the 24" Omnijig is shipped complete, as is, with a standard variable finger dovetail template (that also does single pass half-blinds).

The 16" model ships with the half-blind sliding dovetail template and you can purchase the variable finger template separately (basically, the reverse of the 24").

[Ray Newman]

Ray S: see Dave Moody's 1st post -- it's 'dead-nuts-on'.

I've watched the Incra jig & its clones @ the wood shows. Demonstrations make it looks so easy & effortless. But I think it will get old real fast when you need to move the work for ea. cut. I bet my Keller or Leigh is quicker to cut.

& one thing to remember: dovetail jigs have a learning curve & the more you use them, the quicker it will be second nature to set up & use.
& w/ variable spacing jigs, the jig does not limit the size of the box, drawer, etc.

I’d also discuss this fellow woodworkers & maybe ask them for a tutorial on their jig(s). Nothing beats your own hands-on experience or a 1-on-1 demonstration.....

[Jim Eller]

Ray,

Here are my two cents worth.

I purchased a PC 4212 from Woodcraft and after six month of frustration I sold it. I realize many have had great results with this jig but I just couldn't get it to work for me. I'm sure much of it was operator error.

I then went back into two months of the research mode and decided it was going to be a Leigh or an Akeda. I watched live demo's on the Leigh and video's of the Akeda and Leigh. They were both close in my mind but, for me there was still too much room for operator error with the Leigh so I choose the Akeda. I used the KISS theory.

Dovetails are some thing I would not be doing every day and I didn't want a steep learning curve everything I got it back out. It's so easy, "Even a caveman could do it".

The Akeda has done everything I expected of it. My first through dovetails were cut within an hour after I opened the box. And....they were perfect. Tight with no gaps. That one hour includes milling the material and reading the manual.

I have since many, many boxes, Marc Spagnoulo's clocks and other project and have not have to waste a single piece of material. Sounds like a fairy tale but it true.

I'm sure it's not the jig for everyone but it works wonderful for me. The only real drawback was the price, but I got over that with my first dovetail.

I use blue tape on the back side of the material and have only had one minor tearout. I have used hard and soft maple, black walnut, oak and purpleheart.

If you want to see a couple of pics, e-mail me. I don't know how to get them up here. I'm too old to learn too many new things at once.

Here are some of the reviews that sold me, especially the one here http://www.akeda.com/reviews.web.html by a guy named Charlie B. He writes on a number of forums and is a guy who says what he thinks. Some others are: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/aked-1.htm, http://www.inthewoodshop.org/reviews/akeda.shtml#b

Some of the reviews are for the 16" version. I have the 24" version. I bought it because I can set it up for pins at one end and tails at the other if the material is less than 12" wide. I use two routers.

Oh.........and did I mention dust/chip collection. Virtually nothing on the floor or in the air.

I also called Akeda in Canada at 877 387 6544. The guy that invented the thing, Kevan, answered the phone and spend all the time I wanted with no sales pressure. I purchased mine from http://www.thejigstore.com/index.php. Nice folks also.

Good luck in you search.

Jim in TN

[Jerry Olexa]

Good comments above. Agree on most. For my 3rd DT jig, I stumbled on a great buy on the bigger Keller as I wanted to do through Dt's w/o the expense of a Leigh. This is by far, the easiest DT jig I have ever used. Setup time was about 10 minutes and in 15 minutes I had consistant, reliable through DT results. For simplicity and ease of use, I give it high grades...Just my experience...

[Ray Schafer]

I logged in today and expected one or two replies saying something like: "look at the other posts that cover this, dummy." I guess I hit a chord though. This must be a hot topic because there are truly several very good options, and it depends upon several parameters -- including how much you really want to spend.

Thanks for all the great information. I am going to take my time on this decision, since I have no immediate need, and I seem to be able to resist my tool obsession on this one (for the time being).

I am hoping to do both through and half-blind dovetails. I am assuming that the material that I would use would mostly be 1/2 and 3/4, but may want to do slightly larger if making a large box like a hope chest.

[John A Walker]

The D4 does a little more than the super jig I believe. I like my D4.:)

I hope I didn't 'bump' this post illegally!

The Leigh Dovetail jig does much more than just cut dovetails.

You can buy various templates to allow finger joints and through mortice and tenons. But I make my jig do other jobs without any fuss, and without using anything that doesn't come with the basic jig. (Save for the occasional sacrificial piece of timber.)

I can trim end-grain up to the width of the jig.
I can cut regularly spaced dados with it.
I can cut finger or comb joints.
With the right cutters I can cut a version of the biscuit joint.
I can cut 'slip-tenons' and mortices, and with a bit of a fiddle, I can dowel-joint too.

You just need to use your imagination. The Leigh jig is a woodworking techno-jig. Furthermore, the router is used as it should be. Cutter downwards.

There are a few things a WoodRat can do that would be difficult (if not impossible) on the Leigh; but not many.
I Love my Leigh.
:cool:
John

[Erik Christensen]

I admit the instruction book can seem daunting when first opened - there are so many things to consider & adjust. Leigh does a great job of breaking it down into discrete steps and making it pretty easy to follow. If you get stuck their toll free tech support is first rate.

My first use of the jig had me making test fits of completed dovetails in about 30 minutes. If I have not used the jig in a while it takes about 10 minutes of re-reading the manual to get things straight as to setup & process.

I have yet to make a bad finished joint & I am not that good at woodworking. What I really like are all the other options - I bought the isolock templates that let me make other types of locking joints - everyone who has seen those are amazed at how they look and fit together.

[Zach England]

I have far less experience than others, but have owned a porter cable 4212, akeda 24 and the incra system. I ditched the PC because it was not wide enough for the work I wanted to do and did not allow variable spacing. I have had the akeda for a month or so and have built a large case, a number of drawers and a few jewelry-type boxes with it and like it more eery time I use it. I only have two criticisms:

1) the number of small parts--necessary but annoying
2) the 1/8 inch increments--yes, they make for great repeatability, but you have to shim your stock on one side or cut it in 1/8 inch increments if you want centered dovetails--especially desirable on small workpieces


Setup is easy. I have not had to look at the manual since the first time I used it. Yes, it is very expensive, but I am glad I bit the bullet and bought it. It really took my woodworking to "the next level".

As far as the incra goes--I have never set it up. I watched the DVD and thought it looked fiddly. It may show up on the SMC classifieds later this week.

[roman fedyk]

I also think the Akeda is the best jig out there. It can do finger joints, sliding dovetails, half blind and through joints....all without any additional templates. The other jigs require that you purchase more templates at very high prices. In addition the way the jig is built, it supports the router so there is no chance that the router will tilt and damage the joint.

Also, the Akeda uses router bits of different angles. Different angles look better and hold better in different thicknesses of wood. The angles available are 7, 9, 11, 14 and 20. Most other jigs limit you to 8 degree. It can do wood down to 1/4" without any problem.

I don't think the Akeda 24 is any more expensive than a Leigh D4R. In both cases you need to purchase a bit set, on the Leigh you need to purchase an attachment ($99) which allows vacuum collection and also gives router support that is built into the Akeda.

I have the Leigh D4R, 24" Omnijig in addition to the Akeda. However in reality, I allways reach for the Akeda.....

[Michael Gibbons]

It is possible to make unlimited width or length dovetails with the Keller because there are no end brackets to deal with. By that I mean if your PC or Leigh jig is a 24" model but your board is 27", your SOL. Also with the Keller, you can do variable spacing by adjusting the jig, angled, and round pieces like a chest lid although I haven't used it in that way yet.

[Zach England]

Another thing I like about the akeda is that if you have off-set pins and need to mirror them on the opposite side of the workpiece it is easy to create a mirror-image on the opposite side of the jig.

[roman fedyk]

I think the difference with the Keller and the other jigs is you are limited to through dovetails. It does not do half blinds, which most drawers are. Nor can it do sliding dovetails. Not sure about box joints, you may be able to cheat the jig by using different bits.

I rarely go beyond 24 inch dovetails but when I did have to do a 32" chest I dovetailed it in two parts and then glued them together, just like a table top. Works great and allows one to "expand" their current dovetail jig size.

One thing about woodworkers, we know how to think outside the box when needed.....

[Jeff Monson]

I have the 24" omni jig, I upgraded from the 4212. Its really easy to setup and use for through dovetails, I had some issues getting it setup for 1/2 blinds but once it was adjusted correctly I really like it. Its built like a tank and when used with the dust hood, you get very little dust or mess. Thumbs up machine for me.