Ideas for a cheap rip-only table saw?

[Stephen Tashiro]

I'd like to set up an inexpensive table saw for the single purpose of ripping boards. Anyone have ideas or plans for such a project?

The inexpensive Delta and somewhat inexpensive DeWalt portable saws that I have are powerful enough to rip pine lumber, which is what I want to do. But the miter gage grooves in the Delta are small and the typical plastic featherboard attachments don't fit them. Neither saw has a good way to attach a featherboard to press down on the top of the work.

To me, one of the most disappointing things about the typical table saw is that it is very hard to clamp things to the table because the underside is usually irregular in shape. I thought about building a cart to hold the saw which would add a regular wooden border to the saw table, so I could clamp and attach things to my heart's content. Do people do that?

[David Keller NC]

If you're considering an inexpensive table saw that has a cast-iron or steel table (versus aluminum), one of the neatest things to come along in years are mag-blocks. I've got one of the featherboards, and it would take enormous force to move it when the magnets are engaged. Individual magnets with a thumb-screw lock/unlock mechanism are available, and using these, you could make any sort of jig or auxillary tool you'd like that will clamp anywhere on the metal table surface.

Regarding a really inexpensive option for ripping - one thing I've gotten by with when I've a large board with an irregular edge that won't ride against the table fence is to use a shop-made straightedge and a circular saw. It'd be a little inventive, but I could see setting up something like that in a jig that would make a permanent tool just for ripping. You couldn't do anything else with it, but it'd be dirt cheap.

[Jim Becker]

Try to find a used contractor's style saw with a cast iron top and a quality motor. You can set it up without any extension wings if need be to conserve space. A decent used machine like that is going to be a lot more pleasurable to use (and be easier to maintain) than an el-cheapo portable saw. Asn as David points out, the case iron top gives you more options for feather boards, etc.

[Stephen Tashiro]

I'll look into the magnets. I've seen similar things on stands for machinist's depth gages.


I'm not trying to rip extremely irregular wood, just the typical "1-by" stock that one gets at the hardware stores. Those are irregular enough to challenge my skill. I get the job done now, but I'd like the process to be more "automatic".

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Why not just screw a hand held circular saw to a sheet of plywood flip it over and screw or clamp your rip fence where ever you want it?

I suggest this because it sounds like you want quick & cheap for some reason prolly a short one time run of something.

That way you can toss the ply when done and keep the saw.

[Dan Bowman]

You may want to look into the Eurekazone guide system - they have a forum on this site. It's great for ripping 4X8's.

[Jason White]

How about this idea?

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/videos/index.aspx?id=101562&c=2




I'd like to set up an inexpensive table saw for the single purpose of ripping boards. Anyone have ideas or plans for such a project?

The inexpensive Delta and somewhat inexpensive DeWalt portable saws that I have are powerful enough to rip pine lumber, which is what I want to do. But the miter gage grooves in the Delta are small and the typical plastic featherboard attachments don't fit them. Neither saw has a good way to attach a featherboard to press down on the top of the work.

To me, one of the most disappointing things about the typical table saw is that it is very hard to clamp things to the table because the underside is usually irregular in shape. I thought about building a cart to hold the saw which would add a regular wooden border to the saw table, so I could clamp and attach things to my heart's content. Do people do that?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Just curious for what purpose you are ripping? If it will be a long term thing, maybe an old piecs of heavy iron? Crazy good deals can be had on that sort of thing, and if you don't care about any of the other features then 90 degree rips, then even a good old heavy saw with no tilt or missing miter provisions would work well. Just an idea if you want to set this up for years worth of use.

If it is short term, the other guys already said what I would have.

[Steve Griffin]

Oh, I would love it if I had room for a dedicated ripping table saw.

And if I did, it would have a power feeder for sure. Who cares about the saw--if you got a few horse power and a fence that works, you are all set. It's all about the power feeder....

-Steve

[Jason White]

I'll get some heat for suggesting this, but you can rip boards on a radial arm saw by turning the motor 90-degrees. You can find a used RAS for super cheap on Craigslist.

JW


I'd like to set up an inexpensive table saw for the single purpose of ripping boards. Anyone have ideas or plans for such a project?

The inexpensive Delta and somewhat inexpensive DeWalt portable saws that I have are powerful enough to rip pine lumber, which is what I want to do. But the miter gage grooves in the Delta are small and the typical plastic featherboard attachments don't fit them. Neither saw has a good way to attach a featherboard to press down on the top of the work.

To me, one of the most disappointing things about the typical table saw is that it is very hard to clamp things to the table because the underside is usually irregular in shape. I thought about building a cart to hold the saw which would add a regular wooden border to the saw table, so I could clamp and attach things to my heart's content. Do people do that?

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Jim is right....much better to use a good old belt drive Delta than any cheapo saw. You will find the $80-100 saws [even brand new] are wildly inaccurate and dangerous and the fences are alwys less than desirable to say the least. The idea about the doors used as an outfeed table would certainly help but you are still left with a saw that is under par for anything close to woodworking.

[Chip Lindley]

Another *Yes* vote for a good ol' cast iron contractors saw with a decent motor!! What is to say you cannot drill and tap holes in the CI surface to accept any hold downs you choose to make? Tapped holes inside the miter slots might be less obtrusive, yet quite functional. Vertical hold downs can attach to any decent fence that clamps at both ends. All of this falls short of a real power feeder, but you can dream can't you?!?!

[Rick Potter]

Look on any Craigs List and you can find Craftsman table saws for $100 anytime. Just pick one with a cast iron table and a motor hanging out the back. Check it out for rust and wear.

Rick Potter