Dovetailed or Parallel Jointer beds

[Edward Warren]

I've done several searches and didn't find any discussion specifically on this. Plenty of comments on all sorts of jointer topics, just not this one.

I am looking at Grizzly 8" Jointers - specifically their G0490 and the G0656. The two big differences I see are the bed adjustment knobs vs. levers, and Dovetail beds vs. Parallel. There are some other differences, but they don't seem too significant unless I am missing something.

Levers vs. knobs (wheels) - any comments?

But my main interest is if folks feel Parallel beds are worth it? There's not much of a price difference, but I'd still like to hear what people's experiences are.

I am sorry if this has been dragged out already. If it has, would someone please point me to the thread and I'll try to delete this one.

Thanks all -

[Ron Bontz]

I had to make this same decision last year. I chose the DJ20 parallel because of the ease of adjustment if needed and the fact the bed stays closer to the blades when raising or lowering. The dovetail ways have to be shimmed to adjust. The only thing I did not like, initially, on the parallel was the difference in bed lengths between the front and rear tables. That just took a little getting used to. I use mine mainly to joint/ straighten the edges so the lever is best for me. Rapid adjustment if needed. Best of luck:)

[Rick Fisher]

I have never given this any serious concern. The amount of adjusting I do on my present jointer is so minimal, once its set, I just kinda leave it.

I think the parralell system is considered better but cant imagine that the total adjustments I would make in a decade would add up to 5 feet.

[Larry Edgerton]

I use a DJ20 when prepping rough stock and the speed of adjustment is very important. I look at the board and set it to take as much as needed to come close, as much as 3/8", and quickly change it to a light finish pass as a slower feed rate for the second pass. I leave the lock lever just snug so I can adjust the bed without screwing with the lock. It has become a part of my routine, and has saved me many hours and hundreds of Bd.Ft.

I have a 12 Porter with a wheel, and it is just too slow to change settings so I prefer the parrallel system for most if not all circumstances.

[Edward Warren]

I should mention that I am a hobbiest, but I like having good tools that I have no desire to replace/upgrade down the road. Something like this...I want my first to be my last.

I did just find this link too:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=66084

[Chip Lindley]

Either type jointer will give you the results you expect, in flattening or straight-edging boards.

The dovetail jointers were the technology of their day, which require precise and heavy machining. Their predecessors used basic wedges beneath the tables for adjustment. Just fine when well adjusted, but a BEAR to readjust if ever disassembed!! I found this out with an 8" Crescent! Todays parallel bed jointers require much less machining when manufactured and still give excellent results. A dovetail joiner should NOT need adjustment. The precision *should* be milled into the dovetail ways. These can only be adjusted by shimming the ways if needed, to make the tables co-planer. The newer parallel machines are much easier to adjust if needed.

Issue of levers versus crank wheels is with the individual. With a parallel machine you are obliged to enjoy levers regardless. Both work, but I have found that with a wheel on my ol' 6", I knew how much of a twist to give it for another 1/32. With the lever of my DJ20 I must double check the scale each time I adjust. There is no *feel* to a long lever, as there is with a wheel.

After working for many years with a nice but small 6" Rockwell, my DJ20 is just awsome. It does everything an 8" jointer should do. But, a precise 8" dovetail jointer is usually cheaper and will perform for you just as well. One guy here critiqued an 8" Harbor Freight jointer very positively, which cost him only about $350!!! Amazing!!

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Common wisdom says that parallelogram tables are better because they have more range of adjustment.

Whether you need it is I think a function of how much effort and precision the manufacturer puts into making the machine in the first place.

These days most manufacturers will sell their mothers to save a nickel.

[glenn bradley]

Dovetail beds vs. Parallel.

The general consensus seems to be that for most hobbyists it really doesn't matter. There have been some unfortunate folks who have had to fight the shims and gibs used in adjusting DT ways but for most light users this should never be a problem.

Respecting Murphy, I went with p-beds. I also like that the distance between bed and cutterhead remains constant at different heights.


Levers vs. knobs (wheels) - any comments?

I wrestled with this as I "just knew" wheels were better . . . I now have levers and in practice I have found no advantage over one or the other.

[John Thompson]

If.. if the jointer beds go out of adjustment, the parallel are easier to adjust but both are adjustable. I have used dove-tail jointers for 36 years and never have had to adjust. I prefer the wheels as I feel I can make micro adjustments easier without having to fiddle.

Bottom line is both work well and I can adapt to levers. I might add I prefer the dovetail as most have equal lenght tables on each side of the cutter-head as opposed to longer on in-feed and short on out-feed on the parallel. My theory is what goes in... must come out and I want the longest support on both sides as possible.

Sarge..