L sahped solid wood top ?

[Joe Chritz]

I think I have the other half talked into doing a solid wood top on the kids desks in place of laminate with a wooden edge.

My question is this, I intended to make both sections run "length wise" and use a seam at the intersection.

I have thought of a few methods to attach them.

Biscuits, splines or counter bolts like used with countertops. Anyone have any preferences for one over the other? Any reason for one over the other?

Dis assembly isn't a big deal with me so that reason isn't important.

Joe

[Todd Crawford]

I like the biscuit but that is just because it gives me a chance to use my PC biscuit jointer kit which I love.... Any of the methods should work though....

[Chuck Tringo]

I would go with pocket holes for this as the bottom wouldn't show and its nice and quick. Also if ever damaged or you need to move, the two pieces come apart if no glue is used.

[Joe Chritz]

I didn't think about pocket screws. That is another option that would work pretty well. Especially if I use some dry biscuits or spline along with.

Thanks

Joe

[Jamie Buxton]

If you run the grain the long directions of the arms of the L (the reasonable way to do it), and if you use a miter joint, the effect of cross-grain expansion and contraction will be to change the 90 degree angle a bit. If one arm of the L is somewhat free to move -- like it is being supported with legs -- you'll never notice it. However, if it is tied down firmly to cabinets underneath, you may see gapping along the miter.

[Joe Chritz]

I think I am going to skip the miter and just do a but joint.

It would work better to do a 48" long piece and a 53" piece but I think it would look better with a 74" and a 27" piece.

There is a cabinet on one end (about 26" wide) with just a panel for support on the short end. A L shaped piece in the corner and half backs along both sections about 12" wide. The top will obviously be attached with either figure 8's or shop made blocks.

Joe

[Andrew Nemeth]

I think the miter would be a lot more stable than a butt joint in the corner if you are going to go with solid wood. The expansion will be equal across each side of the miter as long as you are mitering two boards of the same width. If I'm following you right and you make a butt joint with the grain of one piece running perpendicular to the other you are probably going to have problems with cracks developing over time unless you make provisions for wood movement.

Either way you go I have used heavy duty knock down cams before and they work great. You can find them at rockler and woodcraft (I think). You can also get a simpler product at the big boxes that are meant for jointing countertops. If I am trying to allow for expantion and contraction, or I want to be able to kock it down, I won't glue the miter. In those cases I will just use a loose spline (or two), or biscuts, or dowels to help index the surfaces and provide some additional integrity to the joint.