flush fitting drawers

[Tim Sproul]

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules/gallery/albums/albuq63/DSC00554.sized.jpg

This front is a pain....you see the lighter shape of an hourglass? That is a pattern that teaches you quickly to learn to push and pull a plane....If I push the smoother all the way across, the bottom half of the hourglass tears out. If I pull the plane all the way across, the top half tears out. I now know why Andy Rae wrote that in "Complete Illustrated Guide to...." The part about needing to learn to pull and push your planes :D

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules/gallery/albums/albuq63/DSC00556.sized.jpg

[Chris Padilla]

Looks nice, Tim. That will be a sweet looking cabinet when you are done. I would just get out my ROS and sand the sucker! :p

[Todd Burch]

I would make the drawer short and glue shims into the back of the case to bring it flush with the front.

[Mark Singer]

I agree with Todd, put stops inside and behind the drawers once you plane the drawer frons to your satisfaction. The drawers look a bit tight to slide well, you may want to end up with a 16th gap around the drawer. Take lighter cuts with the plane work away from the center. Sometimes a diferent bedding angle mage the difference. You don't need full strokes. You can go to a card scraper and still maintain the hand planed quality. The scraper is good at removing or blending plane passes. Finish with a light touch.

[Tim Sproul]

Yup. I considered putting shims in the back or stop that catches the front....but decided against.

These are really really really really small closets already....and so decided that every bit of space I could recover for storage was worth the effort..

At any rate, I don't think I have anywhere near the experience of either Mark or Todd....I just passed my one year anniversary for starting woodworking. :)

[Todd Burch]

Well Tim - good for you! Have you learned anything about stock selection from this project?!!!!