Would You Recomend This Marking Knife

[James White]

From Rockler. Item #12951. 2" Marking Knife. Pro's Con's. Any other comments? I know about the one from Lee Valley for $20 plus shipping. But will this one due till I need to upgrade? $9 shipped is very tempting.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10733&ref_id=6308&ref_t=Z&originid=94610040

James

[glenn bradley]

I like more of an angle on the blade. Despite having others, I more often than not reach for my X-Acto knife for marking. Harbour Freight has a large medium and small handled kit for a few bucks. I just use the small handled version I picked up at an office supply but, I do get the heftier blades (x611 vs. x411).

[Derek Hansen]

Dude, it's just a marking knife. I'm sure the one from Rockler is fine.

[Hank Knight]

James,

I have one of those and I don't find it very satisfactory. I prefer a thinner, longer blade. I recently bought one of Bob Z's Kerf Kadets http://www.czeckedge.com/ and it's a little jewel. But if you don't feel like spending $40 for a marking knife, I've used one of these for years and it's hard to beat for $13.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f343/hankknight/Carving-MarkingKnife.jpg

Hank

[James Tattersall]

From Rockler. Item #12951. 2" Marking Knife. Pro's Con's. Any other comments? I know about the one from Lee Valley for $20 plus shipping. But will this one due till I need to upgrade? $9 shipped is very tempting.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10733&ref_id=6308&ref_t=Z&originid=94610040

James

Think of the many thousands of hours have you spent manipulating various writing instruments, and consider the grip shape of those that you preferred. You can make do with most any small knife, even a pocket jack knife. But I suspect you would have better control using something that feels more like a fine writing instrument, with a round or oval finger grip.

I suggest something like this one:
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/markmeasure/05u0701s2.jpg

[Roger Jensen]

I use a Stanley version of something like this one. I prefer it over a marking knife: it retracts so I can keep in in a vest pocket without another cover and if I use it to cut something in a pinch I can snap off a fresh blade.

I have a LeeValley marking knife that is very nice but has never been used and probably never will.

Roger



http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21E18BZ5WPL._SL500_AA200_.jpg

[Keith Outten]

I agree with James, concerning the proper grip. A really well made marking knife is enjoyable to use.

Check out our own Dave Andersons web site and feast your eyes on the good stuff :)

http://www.chestertoolworks.com/markingknives.htm
.

[Joe Cunningham]

Get an X-acto. You might end up getting a fancier marking knife, but I doubt you will need another one.

[Bill McDermott]

James,

I suggest you get a cheap 1/2" (or smaller) spade bit and grind/file it to a shape you like. Drill a hole in a piece of wood and epoxy it in. Whittle and sand the wood to make a stylish handle. Polish and sharpen the blade.

This is much easier than you might think. A single shop session. I did this and the result is a source of pleasure. To Derek's point... "it's only a marking knife"; there is a wide margin for what will work. But a tool that you make yourself is always cool.

On rare occassions when this is not acceptable, I reach for Joe's ubiquitous X-Acto.

Enjoy!

Bill

[David Keller NC]

James - the short answer is "no", at least in my opinion, but it depends greatly on how much hand tool work you do. If the answer is that you hand-cut all of your dovetails, splurge and get a good, thin one with a bevel on only one side - I like David Jeske's offerings (Blue Spruce Tool Works), but Chester and Czech edge are good ones as well that WW in the local club have and like.

If the answer is that you rarely use hand tools, it becomes a lot less of an issue - I would probably re-grind a pocket knife to remove the bevel on one side.

The importance of thinness is hard to overstate in fine dovetail work - it's sometimes necessary to fit the knife into a space one saw kerf wide, and the thicker designs just don't cut it (OK, couldn't resist that one ;)).

You can learn to use a double-bevel knife for this purpose, but it's a lot tougher to mark one piece of wood from another without taking a shaving off of your template.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I had one of those, and it's more of a chip carving knife than a marking knife. There are many better knives out there that will do the job. Chester Toolworks has a very nice knife but if it is a bit too costly for you, at least look for a tool made in that style.

T.Z.

[Johnny Kleso]

My friend Bob Zajieck makes nice knives
You may want the Thin Kerf Kadet if you plan I doing thin dovetails if not he has a medium thickness blade..

The first prototypes I made where 1/8" and thats what He used at first knives but he now makes them thinner and much thinner for fine dovetail marking..

[Hunter Wallace]

I second what Keith said...
I have 2 marking knives from Dave Anderson's
Chester Toolworks and they are pretty and they...
well...they WORK!

[Glenn Clabo]

I go down to my shop and the first thing I stick into my apron...not CHEAP...but there are some things that just make this woodworking thing good.

http://www.chestertoolworks.com/markingknives.htm

[Johnny Kleso]

PS:
I have a set of those Crown Knives and dont like or use them but they are better than nothing....

[Jack Camillo]

James,
don't get it, it sucks. I have one. Spend the extra 15 or so bucks to get a nice one. In no time you won't miss the extra money, and you'll enjoy your marking knife.

[Stu Gillard]

I have one of Chris Vesper's marking knives (have to do my bit for an Australian maker :))
Have met him a couple of times at various tool shows, nice bloke.

review here
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/chrisvesperjoineryknife.htm

With the state of our Aussie dollar, you guys may get a real bargain !

[James White]

Well I must say I am pleasantly surprised at all of these great responses. I think I will skip this knife.

I will start with an exacto. Then try making one as suggested. Then if I find myself doing lots of hand work. I will invest in one of the finer examples suggested.

Thank you all,
James

[Roger Bell]

I have one similar (but a bit better than the crown). It's ok. Only ok.

I also have one from Czech. I like that one a whole lot. I also prefer holding the knife like a pencil rather than like a hammer.

I don't like exactos. IMO, those skinny flexible blades tend to wander a bit.

You can easily make a nice-enough one like Chester or Czeck if you can turn the handle.

[Chuck Saunders]

I bought those Crown marking knives, they are junk. The steel does not hold an edge. I felt I had been had.

[Derek Cohen]

The issue of design and, especially, ergonomics is a subject of particular interest to me. Consequently, the simple choice of a marking knife takes on an added significance.

You have to ask yourself what you want to do with the knife. Do you want to mark deep lines, so deep that you can chisel the sides as a fence for sawing? Or do you cut dovetails tails-first and seek a knife that will need to get into the thin kerf of a dovetail saw for skinny dovetails?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetailing/Canyourmarkingknifedothis.jpg

For a knife to score deeply you will need to hold it in a palmar grip (i.e. a fist) so that you can exert greater down force. The Crown knife could be made to work, but to do so you would need to alter the angle of the skew ... that angle begs that the knige be held vertically, which is not going to permit much down force. So re-grind the skew to a more acute angle, say 35 degrees. For my own use I have a Japanese kiridashi marking knife with a very solid blade.

http://www.fine-tools.com/M309003a.jpg

Note that this is a single bevel knife for greater strength. It is 18mm wide. I have a smaller V-bevelled version that is great for general work, but is less "powerful".

http://www.fine-tools.com/M309011a.jpg

For dovetails I prefer a knife of my own design. This is designed to be held like a pencil, so that it fits snuggly into the web of the hand. This design is all about control. The knife must become an extension of one's hand. In addition, the blade must be thin to fit into a saw kerf, and a double (V-) bevel is preferred for left- and right work. A higher V angle is indicated for more upright use (say 50 degrees).

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Markingknife-OliveandJarrah3.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Markingknifeset2.jpg

I make these now with HSS blades for extreme handling and long life edge-holding. No, I do not make them for sale on a routine basis, so I am not looking for customers. About once a year I make up a bunch and advertise them.

If you want to make your own, then follow my tutorial at http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Knife%20for%20Marking%20Dovetails.html

And Rob Lee wrote a (tongue in cheek) review at http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/RobLeesMarkingknifeandawlReview.html

If I was looking to buy a knife, I'd consider, firstly, the Dave Jeske Blue Spruce, and secondly, the Dave Anderson Chester Tool Works. Both are ergonomic designs and have fine workmanship. They are differentiated largely by the BS having the thinner blade. To be honest, I do not like the design of the Czeck knife. It looks nicely made, but it is too straight and I cannot imagine it being comfortable to hold for long. Take my comments with a pinch of salt as I have not used one.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James White]

Derek,

Thank you for your comments and and sharing the link to your tutorial. I hope to making use of that in the future. Also Rob's review was most enjoyable.

To think I was considering purchasing that knife is almost laughable at this point. The Creek is just great.

James

[Eric Brown]

Usually you mark so that you can cut. If you are using a saw, you have to offset the cut from the mark to allow for the blade thickness. If you used a Kerf starter instead of a knife mark. the saw will automatically be where it should be.

Here is a brief overview from Glen-Drake......

2. Medium (.025) Kerf-Starterhttp://play-glen-drake.com/v-web/ecommerce/os/catalog/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://play-glen-drake.com/v-web/ecommerce/os/catalog/images/KF-1.jpg
Click to enlarge (javascript:popupWindow('http://play-glen-drake.com/v-web/ecommerce/os/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=62&osCsid=7db5e518a8d81926448e30daef299da6')) The medium Kerf-Starter (.025) works well for fine western saws, e.g. the Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw. Like the other Kerf-Starters, it removes a shaving the same way other scrapers remove shavings, leaving a shallow kerf that captures your saw. Use the Kerf-Starter with a square to layout square lines across end grain and with the long grain. You may also use it to layout one part of a joint from another as in laying out dovetail pins from already cut tails (offset the tail piece to keep the kerf in the waste……see our Offset-Gauge). Prepare the Kerf-Starter the same way you would prepare any other scraper, filing and then burnishing the point (see our combination Scraper File-Burnisher).


Works for me.

[Ron Petley]

Derek:
great tutorial, can't get much easier than that, now I can use up all those dull and broken jig saw blades I have been saving for, well, just such a smart idea like yours to come along.
Cheers Ron.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Eric,

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to compensate for using the "kerf starter" with an appropriately sized shim gauge (also made by Glen Drake) during layout? I don't think my marking knife leaves a .025" (thou.) gauging line!

T.Z.

[Bill White]

I use a Stanley version of something like this one. I prefer it over a marking knife: it retracts so I can keep in in a vest pocket without another cover and if I use it to cut something in a pinch I can snap off a fresh blade.

I have a LeeValley marking knife that is very nice but has never been used and probably never will.

Roger



http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21E18BZ5WPL._SL500_AA200_.jpg

Well Darn! Send it to me. I'd love to use it for ya.
Bill

[Eric Brown]

You are correct that you must offset one side of the kerf mark and using a feeler gage allows you to predetermine how much gap there is. Different woods and different joints may require different gaps.

One of the best things about this technique is that your saw cut is started in the correct place and literally falls into the kerf groove.

If interested, Glen-Drake has a video on CD (free!) that shows how to do this.

[John Shuk]

I echo Keith Outten. I have Dave's marking knife and am very pleased with it.
I love dealing with Creekers and Dave is one of the best.

[Tom Veatch]

I'm sure glad to read those posts about using an X-Acto knife. I've always felt unclean and in need of some kind of purification ceremony after using my pocket knife, utility knife, X-Acto, chisel, etc., to mark a line.

I may still be unclean but at least I know there are other sinners out here with me.;)

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Tom

The blade on my Exacto is ground on both sides to a V. I assume yours in the same. Do you reshape it? If not, have you noted any effects of cutting a line very slightly away from the sidewall?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Alan DuBoff]

I use one of these readily available, and inexpensive Stanley utility knives. The blade is .032" thick, so thin to get in between the smallest dovetails, and it's about 1 3/4" long.

I grind a rounded nose on mine, and hone it to an arc, so that the rounded tip cuts the fibers. It does have the edge honed in a V-shape, as Derek asks, but I don't tell the wood that I use a V-shaped marking knife, and all is happy...this is not rocket science after all...;)

http://stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/10-049_web_detail.jpg

http://stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/11-040_web_detail.jpg

[Larry Conely]

I have four or five purpose-built marking knives, but still reach for my Exacto knife.