You Asked=Details on Miter Station "Pic & Long"

[Steve King]

I have received several emails about some of the details on the miter station. So here it goes; I bought the plans that Norm has for his miter station and storage. I wanted to see how he built the basic cabinet (joints and frame for top) and built it to my specs.
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On the router table, I ran a 4” pvc pipe through the top (that is flush with the top) down to a floor sweep that was cut to fit the box. The router is a MV-12 using the Router Raizer.
The only switch that I could find that the cord and receptacle was in the back was the Power Lock from Bench Dog. I like the way you have to push a safety before the router can be turned on, and you can lean against the switch to turn it off.
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The fence for the miter saw can be removed along with the router fence. On the first thread I said that I mounted Fast Track to ¾” MDF but it is 1” using 5/8” dowels. The dust collection hoses for the router can be removed that will leave a 7’ x 35” open work space.
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Having to align the MS and RAS to be plumb and level, the bolts mounting the RAS are adjustable. I added leveling bolts to the MS with the saw being secured with 5/8” dowels.
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I spent more time on the dust collection for the miter saw and radial arm saw. Because of space, I wanted to have one 6” drop from my cyclone. I had to make a t-fitting for both. With the help from the Creeker’s I came up with a T that was sloped up with a radius that will help direct the dust upward. Under the miter saw is a 12” x 6” reducer that sits just under the saw. I made a collector for the RAS that is connected to a 5” duct. The 5” duct is the only thing that would fit through the frame to the RAS. I ran the controls to the blast gates up through the top.
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<img src="http://sekingusa.home.comcast.net/workstation/t_cms_ras.jpg">
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Again I would like to thank you for all the help and the encouragement to get this project “DONE”
Steve

[Bruce Page]

Steve, excellent post and most excellent miter station. Thanks!

[John Miliunas]

Steve, excellent post and most excellent miter station. Thanks!

I'll second what Bruce said! Very clean installation! :) :cool:

[Jason Tuinstra]

Steve, great post showing us a lot of your great ideas. I especially like the control system you set up for the blast gates. Nice job all the way around.

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks for the details, Steve, much appreciated!

[Jim Becker]

Yea, this is a super bench system and you really thought it through to adapt it to your specific needs. I did the removable fences on my cantilevered miter station system and it really makes for great flexibility relative to the work surface. One other thing I've thought about (but not yet done) is to make an insert to replace the miter saw on the odd need for a larger work surface for some reason or another.

Great job on this project, Steve!

[Terry Hatfield]

Steve,

Thanks for posting the detail pics. It is surely one of the nicest miter stations I have ever seen. Excellent work!!!

t

[Rich Konopka]

A project on the radar screen. Thanks for the pics and info!!! Now I know why I keep coming back to SMC.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

First class for sure. I like the RAS dust collection hood! Thanks for posting the pics!!

[Dennis Peacock]

Steve,

Thanks for posting the detail pics. It is surely one of the nicest miter stations I have ever seen. Excellent work!!!

t
<font size=+3><B>Hey........He's alive!!!!!!</B></font>

<B>Welcome back buddy!!!!</B>

[Dennis Peacock]

Steve,

VERY WELL DONE!!!!! Thanks for posting and sharing what you have done. I really need to do something like that, but I've gotta figure out if my dad is going to give me that nice RAS that he left out in my grandmothers shed for the last 5 years unused or if he's going to keep it!!!!!

You did real good Steve!!!!! Congrats on a job well done.

[Bob Johnson]

Under the miter saw is a 12” x 6” reducer that sits just under the saw.
Steve


Steve,

Is the 12" x 6" reducer something you made or is it a stock item? I can't find one at the BORG or at A/C supply houses. If you made it, would you share the dimensions and angles you used to lay it out?

Thanks,
Bob

[Steve King]

Bob,
I had to have it made by a sheet metal shop. It was hard for him to make because it could only be 10” tall. He charged me $25.00 to make it, but by the way it works I think it was worth it.
Steve

[Chris Padilla]

Bob,

A trick that might work is to first cut yourself two discs from some material (1/4" ply, mdf, etc.) of 12" and 6" diameters. Now connect those two discs through their centers such that the overall length from the outside of one disc to the outside of the other disc is the length of the duct you want. Now put this little contraption on some sheetmetal (or posterboard/cardboard if you want to practice) and put a mark on one of the discs as a starting point and roll the contraption and trace the pattern in makes for one full revolution of the disc with the mark...repeat for the other disc. Now you will have a pattern that you can cut out and should form a nice funnel or partial cone if you will. Later, you can make straighter transitions for the two ends of this partial cone so you can attach it. :)

In fact, if you want to make a circular transition to a square or rectangular, you use the same concept but make one of the "discs" into the square or rectangle...this one is much easier to trace, of course! :)

[Bob Johnson]

Chris,

Thanks, I now remember reading that technique on Bill Pentz's web site, but had completely forgotten about it. The "CRS" syndrome seems to be getting stronger lately.

Thanks,
Bob