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Jerry Solomon
06-10-2004, 5:53 PM
Hope I can get some advice from some experienced home construction folks or designers in the group. We are planning a remodel of our master bathroom. The area consists of a tub/toilet room with a 24" entry door and a vanity area which is basically open to the bedroom. The only partition between the vanity area and the bedroom is a half-wall with a set of 3 spindles for the upper part. The bedroom has a simple vaulted ceiling about 12 ft. high at the peak. We are considering removing the half wall and possibly installing a pocket door to close off the vanity area for early risers. The ceiling rafters are oriented perpendicular to the spindle wall. My question is this...is the spindle/half wall a load bearing wall? How can you tell? I wouldn't expect the builder to use spindles for loads but maybe they did. I've attached a photo to clarify the situation.

Chris Padilla
06-10-2004, 6:09 PM
Jerry,

I'm no expert but I have time! :) I seriously doubt that the spindles used would be code for a supporting wall. Even at that, it is a pretty short wall.

Any chance you can see what spans the distance from the (obvious) supporting wall to what I assume is an exterior wall? Is there attic space above the bathroom ceiling? Maybe you could pull down some light fixtures and poke your head up there or use a mirror?

Depending on the extent of the remodel, you could always remove some drywall and go exploring.

Is the dark brown trim crown moulding or is it flat on the wall? It looks like it might be hiding a beam but I can't tell angles from the pictures. I'd say odds are good its a beam and you are all set for support.

Jerry Solomon
06-10-2004, 7:35 PM
Chris - A little follow-up.....

Any chance you can see what spans the distance from the (obvious) supporting wall to what I assume is an exterior wall? Is there attic space above the bathroom ceiling? Maybe you could pull down some light fixtures and poke your head up there or use a mirror?

There is an attic space above the vanity area so I can verify what I think is the situation. As I recall, there is a substantial wood beam in the attic running directly above the line of the spindle wall. This is also at the lower edge of one side of the bedroom vaulted ceiling.

Depending on the extent of the remodel, you could always remove some drywall and go exploring.

Is the dark brown trim crown moulding or is it flat on the wall? It looks like it might be hiding a beam but I can't tell angles from the pictures. I'd say odds are good its a beam and you are all set for support.

The dark trim at the top of the wall is a flat piece of 1x6. The room has (fake) exposed beams with a sort of rustic flavor. This appears to be purely decorative.

Thanks - Jerry

Steve Clardy
06-10-2004, 8:24 PM
Looks like no problem removing it . The wall is too short to support much, even if it is a supporting wall.

Martin Shupe
06-10-2004, 9:48 PM
We have 4 pocket doors in my house built 3 years ago. I wish had only two.

When you put in a pocket door, you may not put any electrical plugs or switches on either side of the wall. You cannot put any shelves, cabinets, towel racks, or the like on the walls either. So I have a guest bath that requires you to walk a couple steps across a dark room to find a light switch.

I have one pocket door which sticks in the summer and works fine in the winter. I had the builders fix it once, but I think that was in the winter, because in the summer it still sticks, and guests become "trapped" in my bathroom. I have determined that it is dragging on some trim that is too far back for me too reach without removing the entire molding. Someday, I am going to replace that door with a regular door, but that entails drywall, which I am not good at, and it irritates me that I paid for a house with such a defect.

So...before you commit to a pocket door, be sure it is really what you want/need. Of course, it might work perfect for you, as they do for me half the time.

Jerry Solomon
06-11-2004, 11:44 AM
Chris, Steve, Martin - I was considering the pocket door because of its "compact" nature. I had not heard of problems with them before and will consider that before installing one. Thanks for your replies.

Chris Padilla
06-11-2004, 1:00 PM
Jerry,

I have two pocket doors in my house. One is in our master bathroom and it separates the shower/toilet area from the sink/closet area. It works fine and doesn't stick but it looks like hell closed because of all the rubbing over time. That is okay since it mostly stays open.

I have another one on one side of the kitchen that separates the formal dining room room from the kitchen. I've maybe move it 5 times in the 5 years I've lived in the house so it doesn't really serve any purpose other than take a few inches away from the kitchen. It, too, has rub marks on it.

I guess my point is if you decide to go with one, educate yourself well about them and take steps to buy high-end hardware to ensure they function well and last.

Lee Schierer
06-11-2004, 1:34 PM
From the photo it does not appear to be aload beaing wall. However, even if it is you can certainly suppor the load with your wall enclosure for the pocket door. If you frame in the door wall, it should pick up any and all loads currently resting on the spindles. If the guides for the pocket door are set correctly there shold be no visible wear marks over time. The door should not rub on the sides of the opening as it opens. In addition to the rail at the top supporting the door there shold be a set uf guides at the bottom to keep the door aligned.

Another option would be to mount the door on full extension drawer slides mounted above and below the door sort of like these pantry slides.Pantry slide (http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&sku=1502&filter=drawer%20slide&search_handle=DADCDBDIDADADDDGDBDCDEGGGGDCDADECNGD GEDIDHCNDEDGGFDICNDIGGGGDGCNGFGEGBGDDCDADBDFGCGCGG DHDADADADBDCDADADBDCGEHCGBHHGFHCCAHDGMGJGEGFDADADJ DGDADADJDCDADADIDIEEEDEDEEEEECEEEJEEEIEEEBEHEHEHEH EEEFEEEDEDEOEHEHEHECEEEHEHEEEDEOEEEFEHEGEEEKEEEDED EOEEEJEEEEEEEGEEEKEDEOEEEEEHEFEEEBEEEHEEEJEEEGEHEG EEEGEHEDEEEJEHEGEHEGEDEEEEEDEEEEEDEEEEEDEEEEDADADA DBDBDADADADBDADADADDDAEDGFGMGFGCHCGPHDEEGFGGGBHFGM HEFAGFHCHDGPGOGBGMGJHKGBHEGJGPGODADADADADADADADBDA DADADADA)

Chad Pater
06-12-2004, 4:54 AM
[QUOTE=Martin Shupe]We have 4 pocket doors in my house built 3 years ago. So I have a guest bath that requires you to walk a couple steps across a dark room to find a light switch.

Have you seen those small motion sensors for inside that turn on the lights when you enter? A golf course locally has them in their bathrooms...kind of industrial I supose but a thought.

Chad

Mark Singer
06-12-2004, 9:35 AM
Hafele makes the really good pocket door hardware! It doesn't look bearing to me. If the joists in the attic are parralel , your good!

Jerry Solomon
06-12-2004, 10:37 AM
From what I remember, the ceiling beams are perpendicular to the spindle wall. As soon as the attic temperature gets below 150F (we're in the New Orleans area), I'll recheck it. Thanks again to everyone for your advice.

Martin Shupe
06-13-2004, 4:33 PM
[QUOTE=Martin Shupe]We have 4 pocket doors in my house built 3 years ago. So I have a guest bath that requires you to walk a couple steps across a dark room to find a light switch.

Have you seen those small motion sensors for inside that turn on the lights when you enter? A golf course locally has them in their bathrooms...kind of industrial I supose but a thought.

Chad

Thanks Chad, for a great idea. We have those at work. I'll add that to my honey do list.