Problems with Ridgid TS3650 Kickback pawls

[Derek Larson]

Good morning all,
I have a ridgid TS3650 and I was curious if anyone else was having this problem. Just to clarify I think I have it tuned in pretty accurately. However, whenever I use the splitter with the anti-kickback pawls the board becomes VERY hard to push through. Once the splitter is removed everything works fine. Now the TS that I bought came with a thin kerf blade and so I was assuming that the splitter was just a little thicker than the cut, so the board would actually be forced apart. And I confirmed this with a dial caliper, so I was just wondering if anyone else came across this problem. I know an easy fix would be to buy a new blade that wasnt thin kerf but then I am limiting myself. I contacted ridgid about this over two weeks ago and then never responded to me, I felt this could be a safety concern.
Thank you

[Ben Martin]

Derek,
I have the same problem, but it is because the piece of sheetmetal that my pawls are attached to is not parallel to the blade, it is skewed. I have since taken the guard off of my table saw and it scares me to use it. I tried to modify the guard so that it would work, but I can't, it is with the way that the sheetmetal piece was stamped.

[Derek Larson]

I will have to take a look at that when I get home. Have you tried a standard size blade, and if so did that alleviate the problem at all?
Thank you

[Bill White]

for trouble IMO. Thick splitter and thin blade does NOT make for a happy pairing. Skewed splitter? All I hear is kick back.
Yeah, I know. I'm a wuss 'cause I use the splitter, blade guard, etc., but, so far, I still have all my original digits.
One other trick is to keep the pawls sharp. That way they'll dig into the workpiece at time of attempted kickback.
Bill

[Jim Becker]

I have always avoided the "anti-kickback pawls" simply because they add little value and tend to cause damage to delicate veneers and wood when (not if) they go out of adjustment. The splitter or a riving knife "should" eliminate the need for such pawls, but they seem to be a component still supplied on North American designed saws. When I had my Jet cabinet saw with the Biesemeyer snap-in splitter, I threw away the pawls upon first installation. My MiniMax slider never had them...just a riving knife with or without a guard, depending on the operation.

[David Moody]

I haven't had any problems with the splitter or pawls on my TS3660, though I found that the alignment of the splitter to the blade is very critical, especially if you are using a thin kerf blade (which I do). From what you said, you may have already made that adjustment, so that may not be the issue for you.

The directions in the operating manual for making that alignment are not quite correct, in my opinion. I made the adjustment using the hex nut in the holding collar instead of the thumbscrew on the fitting collar (as the manual suggests). Since the fitting collar is positionally set with a pin, adjusting away from that pin takes away the repeatability of the adjustment if you have to remove the blade guard (if you install a dado blade, for instance). Plus the thumbscrew adjustment (since it comes in at an angle) tend so push whatever adjustment you have towards the pin as you tighten it.

You could, potentially, make that splitter more of a "knife" if you are adventurous enough to carefully grind and polish a rounded sharpening into the curve of the splitter. It would make it a bit more self-centering.

[Tom Hargrove]

I have had a 3650 for about four years. I think its a great saw for the money, but the splitter and pawls are poorly designed, as on most saws marketed in the US.

I have had problems with thin kerf blades and the splitter. The splitter design allows for it to be easily removed and installed, but precise alignment after reinstallation is a challenge. I only use the splitter and pawls when I am ripping 6/4 or 8/4 hardwood boards, and only after I have spent some time aligning the splitter with the blade. Ripping thin strips with the pawls in place is kind if scary, so I don't do it.

I spent some time trying to figure out how I could fabricate a riving knife, but could not come up with a good idea that is within my metal fabrication abilities. I have several ZCI's that I have made from plywood. In one of them, I installed an aluminum nail vertically behind the blade to keep the kerf open as the ripped board passes. The nail was filed down to match the thickenss of the think kerf blade, and is epoxied into the insert. It has worked well to date with thinner (4/4) stock and sheet goods. I am probably going to fabricate a wider splitter from plastic or aluminum sized for thin kerf blades that will permanently mount in a ZCI.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
MJ - 'nuff said.

Well almost - I bought a couple of MJ splitters and a ZCI for my TS3660.
There's tons of plans for dust collecting over the top blade guards around the web also.

But - you're right - that system Ridgid and just about every other maker uses is a safety hazard.


I am probably going to fabricate a wider splitter from plastic or aluminum sized for thin kerf blades that will permanently mount in a ZCI.
Tom - see my above comment about the MJ.
They supply an installation kit which keys on the width of the blade teeth, not the blade itself.
The standard kerf width kit is about $20.00. It comes with a jig which can be used over and over and over again.