Cutting Brass Rod on Table Saw - possible?

[Jason Tuinstra]

I picked up some 1/4" brass rod that I want to use for shelf supports. Is it possible to cut it on the table saw or even perhaps the bandsaw? I've cut aluminum on the table saw before, but never brass. My assumption is that it shouldn't be a problem, just wondering if anyone has ever done it.

[larry merlau]

I picked up some 1/4" brass rod that I want to use for shelf supports. Is it possible to cut it on the table saw or even perhaps the bandsaw? I've cut aluminum on the table saw before, but never brass. My assumption is that it shouldn't be a problem, just wondering if anyone has ever done it.

yes you can jason i have cut brass flat stock or banding with a carbide blade just not ususal ;)

[Keith Outten]

Jason,

An alternate solution to using your table saw or band saw would be to purchase a cheap set of bolt cutters (Master Key) from HF or Northern Tools. Cutting round stock and even flat bar with bolt cutters then dressing the end on a bench grinder is safer and will save you a bundle over the years. A large set of bolt cutters can be purchased for $29.00 and will save a thousand in blades over the life of the cutter.

[Bruce Page]

Jason, if you have an old blade, why not do it on the bandsaw? That would be my second choice, my first choice for a cut like this would be a hacksaw.

Be sure to hold the rod with a drill press vise, clamp or something, don't do it "freehand".

[Jason Tuinstra]

Jason, if you have an old blade, why not do it on the bandsaw? That would be my second choice, my first choice for a cut like this would be a hacksaw.

Be sure to hold the rod with a drill press vise, clamp or something, don't do it "freehand".


Bruce, I don't know why I didn't think of the hacksaw :confused: ? I guess I'm focused on a clean flat cut. I went to the table saw or bandsaw thought first. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Chris Padilla]

Jason,

I saw in a recent issue of either WOOD or AW the use of metal inserts for shelf supports. Basically, you push in the insert into the hole in the cabinet and then you put in the shelf support. It is supposed to be a cleaner look (if the cabinet is plywood) and supposed to help the hole in the wood keep its round shape longer.

[Jason Tuinstra]

An alternate solution to using your table saw or band saw would be to purchase a cheap set of bolt cutters (Master Key) from HF or Northern Tools. Cutting round stock and even flat bar with bolt cutters then dressing the end on a bench grinder is safer and will save you a bundle over the years. A large set of bolt cutters can be purchased for $29.00 and will save a thousand in blades over the life of the cutter.

Another suggestion I never thought about. But, believe or not, I don't have a bench grinder. Yes I know, it's one of those woodworking 101 tools. I just never got around to buying one.

[Bruce Page]

P.s,... Use a belt or disk sander to dress up the pins. Brass, like aluminum will load up a grinding wheel.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Jason, I saw in a recent issue of either WOOD or AW the use of metal inserts for shelf supports. Basically, you push in the insert into the hole in the cabinet and then you put in the shelf support. It is supposed to be a cleaner look (if the cabinet is plywood) and supposed to help the hole in the wood keep its round shape longer.

Chris, that's a great idea that I've done before on my <A HREF="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5967" TARGET="_blank">cherry side table</A></EM></font>. I was going to do this again on this project, but I didn't due to the amount that would be needed. But I highly, highly recommend this method for most applications. It leaves a real nice finished look.

[Jason Tuinstra]

P.s,... Use a belt or disk sander to dress up the pins. Brass, like aluminum will load up a grinding wheel.

Sweet! Now that I have. :D

[Chris Padilla]

Chris, that's a great idea that I've done before on my cherry side table (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5967)</EM></FONT>. I was going to do this again on this project, but I didn't due to the amount that would be needed. But I highly, highly recommend this method for most applications. It leaves a real nice finished look.
Nice...just revived that thread! :D

[Roger Myers]

I often use the bandsaw to cut brass rod, using a wood support block (think of a piece of 1X4 10 inches or so long. I even put a stop block (glued or clamped to the 1X4) to control the length of the cut...put the brass rod in front of the 1X4 and feed into the band saw (stock is fully supported from behind)...you only have to extend the cut past the rod, so there is only a small kerf into the support block (you don't cut all the way through). Consistent square cuts of uniform length result. To dress the end, I check the cut brass lengths into a chuck on drill press or lathe, and dress with a mill file. Cleaning the file with a file card as needed. Sandpaper can get chewed up pretty quick...

Roger

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Jason, I vote for the old hacksaw. For this thickness it should be real easy and you won't damage any of your power tools or skip any heart beats. Alan in Md.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Thanks for all the advice!

[Rob Russell]

Guys, Guys, Guys - everyone missed the point. :eek: :eek:

This is the perfect opportunity for Jason to justify a new tool. :D :D

Seriously though, I picked up one of the "under $200" 4"x6" horizontal metal-cutting import bandsaws. It has already paid for itself several times in terms of ease of cutting metal stock. If you see any possibility of cutting metal stuff in the future, think about it. Even though the max rated capacity for round stuff is 5", I'll be able to easily cut 6" DC pipe by securing the pipe on top of the vise.

Rob

[David Rose]

A couple more thoughts... a metal cutting blade for either the saber saw or sawzall if either are available. A metal blade came with my sawzall and I was/am amazed at how it cuts fairly cleanly for an aggressive machine. Don't use the reciprocating feature on either for better cuts.

David

[Chad Pater]

A couple more thoughts... a metal cutting blade for either the saber saw or sawzall if either are available. A metal blade came with my sawzall and I was/am amazed at how it cuts fairly cleanly for an aggressive machine. Don't use the reciprocating feature on either for better cuts.

David

A metal blade in a sawzall is my first choice also. A hacksaw will work fine too but for thicker pieces a sawzall is a arm saver. :D

Chad

[Tyler Howell]

One more Jason. It had to come from me. Rods and dowls roll when you cut then, they take flight. Sorry didn't stop to read all the threads because the heart is pumping. someone may have already said this (Personal experience.) My vote is for the band saw or some means to secure the cut offs.

Big time flying projectiles:eek:
Good Luck.

[Mark Singer]

Use the bandsaw and if you have a disc sander....finish the end on the sander. It comes out square and smooth. If you have a ROS use it to smooth the end. Put the rod in a vise and sand it. Use an old blade. The metal cutting bandsaws are the same as wood except the speed of the blade and the type of blade. Very fine teeth will work well.

[Mark Singer]

Jason ,
It dosen't seem possible after seeing your great work....that you can't cut a piece of brass by yourself....you are playing with us....you know how to do it ...right!

[Jason Tuinstra]

Jason ,
It dosen't seem possible after seeing your great work....that you can't cut a piece of brass by yourself....you are playing with us....you know how to do it ...right!

Mark, I'm a wood guy not a brass guy :D

I should let everyone know that I ended up cutting the brass with an old blade on the table saw - cut like butter. I figured I could do this, I just wanted someone to look over my shoulder :p

I finished up the supports with the disk sander, just as you guys suggested, brought them up stairs and then discovered that 1/4" in China (where the brass rod was made apparently) is a whisker bigger than my 1/4 bit (probably also made in Chine :confused: ). :mad: Doh!!! I "made" them fit for now, but I'm going to have to do something different at some point. At this point the "adjustable" shelves are not as "adjustable" as I would like. Oh well. Minor problem to be fixed later. For now, we're good to go.

Thanks everyone for your help!!!!