Glass Engraving

[Brian Robison]

Hi Creekers,
I've been using the soap and the newspaper technique.
It's amazing how much smaller the lines are using wet newspaper. I'm having a problem though. I'm engraving wine glasses and because the surface isn't flat I'm getting inconsistencies in the engraving. Is there something besides newspaper I could use that would conform to the shape of a wine glass better?

[Scott Shepherd]

If I understand it correctly, many people use dishwashing liquid smeared right on the surface, no paper, no watering it down. Just smear it on. I've never tried it, but it's my understanding that it works.

If you try it, let us know if it works.

[Pete Simmons]

I use a wet paper towel. Works fine.

[Dave Johnson29]

I use a wet paper towel. Works fine.


Hi Pete,

What's the theory behind the dish washing liquid and the wet paper?

I have been meaning to ask this for some time. I am not disputing that it works, and I have yet to try it, but I am wondering why it makes a difference.

Sorry, just the Engineer in me, I need to understand stuff. :eek: :)

[Scott Shepherd]

It dissipates the heat and keeps the engraving more uniform looking (more or less). I've tried the wet paper, and it does work, but I haven't tried the film of soap.

[Keith Outten]

Wet newspaper works well, of course you can use paper towels or any other type of paper you prefer. The idea of using soap instead of water to wet the paper is that it doesn't dry out as quick as water and maintains the adhesion to the glass surface. When the paper fails to adhere to the glass the engraving quality suffers.

Because it is so difficult to keep paper in direct contact with circular objects many just use soap without the paper. The engraving quality suffers a bit but it is acceptable and certainly much better than dry engraving.
.

[George Elston]

You might also try making your lines 80% black instead of solid.

[Wolf Nitsch]

We use the dish soap regularly with great results, it gives a smoother finish. I'm probably reading to much into your question but, are you using a rotating tool so the glass is being rotated as you engrave it?

Wolf

[Brian Robison]

No I'm just engraving and it comes out good but there's a big difference between the soap and the using both the soap and the newspaper. Try a back to back sample and you'll see. I just didn't know if there was something that would flex around the complex contour of the glass instead of the newspaper. The engraving I'm doing on the glass is quite fine, very small font size.

[Brian Robison]

WOOHOO, I think I got it folks. I tried one of those blue shop towels soaked in soapy water and placed on a glass with straight dish washing soap smeared on it. I was able to stretch out the blue paper towel and have it conform to the shape without bunching up. So far, it looks good.
I made sure to slow down the speed to give the laser enough ooumph to go through the towel.:D

[Bob Keyes]

One of the problems with engraving glass and marble/granite is the mindset that because it is hard you need a lot of power. I have been all through that and now I engrave both these materials at about 1/3 the power I started. Sure makes a difference in the quality of the engraving. Try using just enough power to get an acceptable mark.

[Lisa Walter]

I never use anything on my glass......

[Linda Butterfield]

We use just the full strength dish soap on our glass and it works great. We also put a rolled up piece of that black "foamie" material inside the glass to cut down on the reflection.

When engraving on glassware and vases and such, you really need the rotary attachment otherwise your engraving area is very limited.

[Brian Robison]

I'd like to challenge you all to try a head to head comparison using your current method and smearing soap on the glass then covering it with a soaked blue disposable shop towel. Make sure to engrave a really small detail. I think the differences are huge. Believe me, I hate adding more steps , but if the results are improved......

[Pete Thomas]

I have switched from newspaper to tissue paper, much thiner and also conforms better to the surface. Just hold in place and spray a water & soap solution with a small spray bottle.

-pete

[James Aldrich]

A wet, soapy paper towel works great for text and small graphics. If the graphics has a larger area or wider lines to etch the texture of the paper towel will be transfered the the etching. Most paper towels have a quilting texture on it (circles, diamonds ect.). This pattern will be seen in the final engraving. I have tried different brands of paper towels, all with the same results. Even the towels that appear to be smooth still left a distinct line pattern in the etched glass. On text and graphics with thin lines, the pattern was not seen.

Jim

[Lisa Walter]

I'd like to challenge you all to try a head to head comparison using your current method and smearing soap on the glass then covering it with a soaked blue disposable shop towel. Make sure to engrave a really small detail. I think the differences are huge. Believe me, I hate adding more steps , but if the results are improved......


Ok, I'll try it........I like to do photos on glass so we'll see if it helps. I know I just smear on the dish soap, but how do I use the wet paper towel? Just dampen it? And lay it over the glass and laser through the paper towel?

Lisa

[Brian Robison]

If I were doing flat glass I'd use newspaper.
My problem was with wine glasses so it was a compound curve. Yes, soak the paper.I'd still use straight dish soap too. It helps the paper stick to the glass.

[Robert Silvers]

I think I am getting great results with bare glass. Has anyone ever posted a quality photo to the internet where 1/2 of a mark was bare glass and the other half had wet newspaper to show the difference?

[Dan Hintz]

I think I am getting great results with bare glass. Has anyone ever posted a quality photo to the internet where 1/2 of a mark was bare glass and the other half had wet newspaper to show the difference?

You're not likely too. As I've said in the past, those who think they're getting quality results using paper (soap, oil, et. al.) have simply optimized for using paper and have not optimized for engraving without. They need to keep working on their settings. So, if they use the settings for getting good marks with paper, the half without probably won't look optimal... and if they tweaked the settings for the half without, well, they wouldn't need the paper anymore.

NOTE: FYI to those posting anew... this thread is five years old, so keep that in mind with your replies.

[Robert Silvers]

So I should optimize my settings, which I do anyway, and never bother with paper?

[Gary Hair]

So I should optimize my settings, which I do anyway, and never bother with paper?

I would suggest spending the time to figure out where to put a sandblasting cabinet and engrave glass properly...

[Robert Silvers]

I have a sandblasting cabinet. I will remember that when I am comparing results.

[Dan Hintz]

I would suggest spending the time to figure out where to put a sandblasting cabinet and engrave glass properly...

<Chuckle> Touche'...

[Dave Sheldrake]

100 watt Z4 is above what would normally be used for Engraving Rob,

From RECI themselves


And for the laser tube more than 80watts,using for engraving ,the results are with no value,so we would be to suggest much lower power one.

cheers

Dave

[Martin Boekers]

I have done some testing with JDS Laser Tape for Glass, it made quite a bit of difference. I have posted the results here, tape needed much clean up. After a bit more research I discovered regular masking tape (for masking areas) works great! It does take 2 passes though, one to remove the tape and one to vaporize any remaining adhesive. Since I started doing this I haven't had any letters with a "drop out" Also clean up is a breeze washes right off with water. maybe as the adhesive melts it bonds with the fractured glass. The engraved areas are smooth, seemed to have a more contrasty etch, didn't require a brushing. I do many black mirrors and this really improves my quality and consistency. Remember, glass is a fluid and organic so the consistency can vary, not like cast acrylic. It can be difficult to try to optimize settings for all batches of glass, these methods of adding soap, wet paper, masking tape etc does seem to make the process a bit more forgiving.

[Dave Sheldrake]

Remember, glass is a fluid and organic so the consistency can vary

A common misconception Martin, Glass is an Amorphic Solid, the rumour / urban legend it was a fluid/liquid came about as it lacks a first order phase transition through it's transitional range.It also doesn't form a crystalline structure like solids usually do however coal is a solid and so is wood and they also have no crystalline structure.

cheers

Dave

[Martin Boekers]

A common misconception Martin, Glass is an Amorphic Solid, the rumour / urban legend it was a fluid/liquid came about as it lacks a first order phase transition through it's transitional range.It also doesn't form a crystalline structure like solids usually do however coal is a solid and so is wood and they also have no crystalline structure.

cheers

DaveThanks for informing me! See I'm living proof you can teach an old dog new tricks! :)