attempt at stoppers

[chris ormsby]

I just played around with different profiles and this is what came out. Much smaaler in Dia than intended, but I tend to lose a lot of stock getting rid of all the gouges. Advise is more than welcome.
Thanks Chris

[Bernie Weishapl]

Good looking stoppers. Chris I think the size is fine. IMHO You don't want them to big to make them look top heavy.

[David Walser]

Chris,

I think your stoppers are very nice -- particularly if these are your first batch. For ideas on stopper design, cruise on by Ruth Niles website (she sells stopper kits). She has a page showing dozens of different designs. If you click around, you'll also find a lot of tips on how to make bottle stoppers.

Here's a link to the design page: http://www.torne-lignum.com/stopper1designs.html

[ROY DICK]

Chris,
Great looking stoppers and a very nice lathe set up you have there too.
Maybe just a tad smaller in diameter. Like a cross between the 1st and 2nd one, but that is only my opinion.
If my camera had not been dropped I would have sent some pics of the stoppers I make. Nothing to write home about,but I like them.
Do you hear me Santa I need a camera and I have been good? ;)

Roy

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nice work Chris! Form and design is something that comes with a little more time. Stick with it! You have already 4 more times the experience on stoppers than I do!

[Billy Tallant]

Very nice looking stoppers...I've never tried a stopper yet, but looking at these, makes me want to attempt one. Great job!

[Don Carter]

Chris:
Good looking stoppers! The size of your stoppers look fine. Your stoppers look much better than my first four. What finish are you using?
All the best.

Don

[chris ormsby]

I will be using Hut Crystal Coat only because that is what the salesman recommended at woodcraft. I also bought a 150-600 grit turners pack of sandpaper. 19.99 which was the same price as PSI but with no shipping cost. Do I apply this finish at a slow RPM so it doesn't spray off? Doesn't sound like something a want to do all over my new lathe :)

[Scott Lux]

Crystal coat will wear off fairly quickly, but it's a good quick finish. I happen to like the way wood feels (and looks) over time with HUT.

Put a drop or three on a clean rag or paper towel. apply it at low rpm to avoid spraying, and then crank it up. The heat from the rag helps melt the finish in. Don't hurry to take it off the lathe. I like to let it sit a couple hours to cool, otherwise I get the stray fingerprint showing up.

Lux

[chris ormsby]

I will sand and finish at least one tomorrow night. I can at least do one a night after the kids go to bed.

[Dewey Torres]

Stoppers seem to be a popular item.

I do not turn but LOVE the turning community and fully support it. Thanks for sharing your lovely work!

[David Walser]

I will be using Hut Crystal Coat only because that is what the salesman recommended at woodcraft. ...

Chris, allow me to disagree with the salesman. Hut Crystal Coat is a great finish for somethings, but I don't think I'd use it on a bottle stopper. Hut Crystal Coat is a shellac-based finish and shellac dissolves in alcohol. (Any chance your stoppers might come into contact with wine?) If the alcohol is wiped right off, it won't have a chance to soften the finish. Left overnight? You've worked hard on these and they deserve a finish that'll hold up. Bernie uses rattle can lacquer on his (IIRC). Others use a wipe on poly. Tung oil and walnut oil are easy and quick options. Any of these finishes can be buffed to a high gloss, if that's what you're after. They can also deliver a soft sheen (leave as is for the oils or cut back with steel wool for the lacquer and poly).

Nothing wrong with Hut Cristal Coat. It produces a beautiful finisha and lots of turners use it. I just wouldn't use it around alcohol or on something that will get a lot handling. (Shellac does not stand up to abuse.)

YMMV.

[Scott Lux]

I know I just said I like Crystal Coat, and I do. But David's point about alcohol is a good one. I must have read that somewhere else to, because all my stoppers have been wipe on poly, spray poly-crylic, or CA for months now.

Sorry about the brain cramp.

[Don Carter]

Chris:
You have gotten some good advice. Most of the friction finishes don't hold up to a lot of handling. I have used rattle can lacquer and CA and they hold up very well for the stoppers. My wife is a white wine drinker and my stoppers spend part of their lives in the refrigerator. So far, so good.

All the best.

Don

[Bruce McElhaney]

Looks like you are off to a good start. As far as design goes, I feel it's important that stoppers feel good in the hand and are comfortable to use. I use shellawax friction polish. It's very easy to use and creates a great shine, although admittadly not quite as durable as some other finishes.

[chris ormsby]

Are any of these finishes available at HD or Lowes?? I won't have time to mail order from WC and our semi local store didn't have walnut oil in stock. I have a Home Depot and Lowes with in a couple minles from me. Also I want to make wine bottle holders (neck of bottle goes through hole and balances) but don't have the exotic woods to match the stoppers. Any opinions on different species or wood together? I will be engraving the holders to personalize them for each recipient. pics will follow

[Scott Lux]

Either store will have a wipe-on poly, or a tung finish, or other finishes. I like Minwax Wipe-On Poly, but it does darken the wood a little. Not a problem for most woods, but it was too noticable for a project I did with some poplar so I switched to spray on polycrylic. Both products were from HD.

[Dean Thomas]

The closest you'll come to a water white/clear finish is with lacquer. Deft is the most easily available, through most box stores except maybe in California. It comes in small quantities, it is easily thinned down with lacquer thinner, you can get both sanding sealer and finish coats in the infamous rattle cans or in cans with lids. Harder to thin in rattle cans, obviously. :)

Will someone who has worked with Waterlox chime in and share about how it stands up to things and if it changes the color of the wood significantly?

Lacquer does the least to change the color for most woods, most of the time. Great finish for cedars and other delicate reds that you don't want to force to brown or orange and that you really want to keep the contrast between the creamier wood and the reds. Lacquer builds nicely, buffs well, is pretty much resistant to alcohol, and is a very versatile finish. Thinner stinks and really requires GOOOOOOD ventilation, most especially when doing more than itty bitty projects. The fumes can cause physical problems as well as their combustible issues. Summer on the patio is great. Basement near the pilot light? Not so great.