Chisel handles Makers/ Mallet Makers

[richard poitras]

Chisel handles Makers/ Mallet Makers
For those of you that are making chisel handles/mallets how are / or what kind of finishes are you using on them to finish them?

[Adam Cherubini]

I soak my handles in boiled linseed oil.

Adam

[Robert Rozaieski]

I soak my handles in boiled linseed oil.

Adam

+1. Any tools or handles I make are finished with BLO only, though I don't soak them but apply several coats with a rag.

[Richard Magbanua]

I'd like to know, too. What are the differences between soaking and applying with a rag? By "soaking", do you mean to say you are putting them in a jar with BLO? How long?
I'm making some screwdriver handles for a few kits for gifts. They are "turning" out beautifully and it's not very difficult to do. I'd like to make a bunch for myself now for chisels, screwdrivers, saws, etc. Thanks for the info! And thanks for asking Richard!

[Mike Henderson]

I use a wipe-on oil varnish and then wax them (just to make them shiny).

Mike

[Daren K Nelson]

I use Tung oil.

[Jim Koepke]

I have used mineral oil and wax on some, others have received a finish of tung oil mixed with mineral spirits.

The tung oil mixture can be applied after a wax and oil finish.

jim

[Michael Faurot]

For handles that I turn on a lathe, I finish them with bee's wax via friction. For other type handles and tools not made on a lathe, I'll use either a three part concoction of equal parts BLO, varnish and turpentine; or a paste wax.

[Paul Atkins]

I use tung oil varnish - either soak or slop on with rag, then whenever I have a rag with extra finish on it (whether it be TOV, BLO, danish oil or Varathane ) I just wipe my tool handles. My oldest tools probably have 20 coats. Of course they wear away a bit so they aren't thick finishes. Gives them that 'old world' look. The ones I dipped in automotive clear coat just look cheap even though they are tough as nails.

[Stephen Shepherd]

I soak my handles in boiled linseed oil.

Adam

I also soak my chisel handles in linseed oil with a bit of turpentine for a kicker.

The advantage of this is that linseed oil is a long bond double molecule, now while that sounds big, it is actually very small and penetrates wood and most other things, the turpentine reduces the surface tension and allows for deeper penetration.

When linseed oil eventually dries it hardens into a linoxyn film that is very durable and actually strengthens the wood, good for chisel handles and mallet faces.

It is easy to renew, is environmentally friendly, non toxic and has a good feel. Tools with a shiny hard finish feel cold (especially in the colder months) and makes your hands sweat. Every tool handle I have ever owned with a shiny finish, I scraped it off and applied linseed oil.

Stephen

[Johnny Kleso]

I use a couple coats of shellac and sand it then a good wax like Briwax but hard stick wax might work better..

[Adam Cherubini]

I soak for several hours at least and have left handles soaking over night, but not longer. The oil adds weight and I think it stays fairly wet inside the handle. I don't know if it makes the wood stronger, but I feel like it absorbs shock.

Don't like wax on my handles. I've had wax melt in my hand during use. It can become sticky, give you blisters- yuck. I don't like wax. I don't like film finishes either. Might as well have a plastic handle. A little sweat and it becomes slippery. But this is a really personal thing. The oilled beech tools get dirty. They change color as well. So obviously, no right or wrong answers here, except to say that if you are selling tools, woodworkers like really smooth polished handles with a light satin or semi gloss finish.

Adam