Dovetail Saw Question

[Rob Luter]

It appears it 'tis the season for dovetail saw threads, so here's another....

I am considering the purchase of a saw, primarily to be used for cutting dovetails. In looking at their website, I see the LN Carcass Saw in 15PPI Rip is very similar to their Dovetail Saw, with the exception of a larger blade and perhaps a larger handle. The saw plate, set, and resulting kerf are the same thickness as the dovetail saw.

Carcass Saw

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/images/cs_lg.jpg

Dovetail Saw

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/images/ds_lg.jpg

Are there any Creekers using a Rip Carcass Saw like this "double duty" for both cutting dovetails and defining tenon cheeks and such? This seems to be a "more bang for the buck" kind of solution to me.

Feedback is appreciated as always.

[Robert Rozaieski]

I think 15 TPI is going to be a little fine for tenon cheeks. I have a 14 TPI tenon saw and the teeth clog with sawdust prior to exiting the kerf and therefore stop cutting until they can clear the kerf and dump the sawdust. This makes for very slow cutting. I think a coarser pitch like 12 TPI might be better suited for cutting tenons. The carcase saw is more designed for joinery crosscuts like tenon shoulders (when filed crosscut) and case dovetails in 3/4"+ stock (when filed rip).

[Rob Luter]

Good point on the clogging aspect. I didn't even think of that. The finest Rip I have now is a 13TPI on a small Jackson Tenon Saw. I don't have issues with clogging but it's a .025 thick plate and has a fair bit of set so there's room for dust in the nearly .040 kerf. I was hoping to come up with something that would be a bit more precise. Perhaps the additional blade length and height that would come with the Rip Carcass Saw wouldn't really offer any advantages over the Dovetail Saw.

[Mark Singer]

I like a smaller saw for dovetails and finer joinery. The balance of a carcass saw is to high above the work which requires a tighter grip to maintain the angle. A more relaxed grip yields better results

[Alan DuBoff]

I think it would be fine for dovetails, and a more all-around saw in general that could do double duty.

A saw is a saw is a saw...to some extent.

I have seen people cutting dovetails with large tenon saws.

The LN carcass saw has a thin saw plate, so would work fine. But even a thick plate will work fine, not real rules.

I wouldn't worry if it would be optimal for tenons cheeks.

For a tenon shoulder you will still need a crosscut saw, or use a rip and clean it up after (a rip tooth will tear the end grain).

As far as functioning for dovetails and other joinery, yes, the carcass saw would be just fine, IMO. My $0.02.

EDIT: to see someone using a large tenon saw to cut a dovetail, watch George Huron on this video at this link (http://www.springharvestfww.com/dovetails.htm). (you will need quicktime to be able to view it) Also, in terms of bang for the buck, I find it better to have specific saws, like a dovetail saw and a carcass saw. Since you need to have a rip and crosscut at minimum, would be good to target at least a pair, even if one is a used vintage saw on the cheap. My $0.02 again. If it was me I would pick a dovetail saw, and a crosscut carcass saw, or a pair of carcass saws (one rip and one crosscut). There are plenty of used saws around, if you need help, just holler...

[Ray Gardiner]

Hi Rob,

If the primary use is cutting dovetails, buy a dovetail saw.

A dovetail saw is a poor choice however for cutting tenons, you need a longer saw with coarser teeth and more depth under the back.

I think you need both!

Regards
Ray