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Tom Storey
12-07-2008, 3:57 AM
A little background first: Lathe is A General 26020. 20” swing over the bed. I’m turning an urn that is 12” x 8”. The outside is shaped to - tailstock end 8” and headstock end 5”. I have a ½” x 4 ½” tenon at the headstock held by a stronghold chuck with #4 jaws. As yet, the tailstock is still in place with live centre.
I’m ready to start hollowing into the 8” end. It is a heavy piece of wood and I know I’m going to have to use some sort of bowl steady. I don’t have nor have I ever used a bowl steady, in fact the whole urn thing is a first for me and I could use a few pointers.
Question - Drilling into the end grain: What is the best way to start..drill six or so inches, hollow and repeat the process? What size bit?
I’ve been looking at bowl steadies online – I can hardly believe the price of some of them. Is the Oneway bowl steady sturdy enough for my size lathe and the piece of wood I have chucked? If not, what steady would you recommend I look at? More questions to come:o Tom

Jeff Nicol
12-07-2008, 5:43 AM
Tom, There are lots of shop built steadies out there on the net to look at and get some sort of idea how to make one. If you plan on making a lot of tall or large projects, then put the time in doing it right. Lots of guys make them out of wood and use the urethane wheels off roller blades or skates for the wood contact points. I made a fast and dirty one for my 12" lathe that works great. I have the material to make a new one for my PM3520b, but can't find the time yet.

So if you are inclined build, if in a hurry buy! Have fun and keep the vortex whirling!

Jeff

Dan Oliphant
12-07-2008, 11:13 AM
Tom, as mentioned a steady rest is quite simple to make on your own. Will require only a few hours in the shop. The wheels and bearings will be the bigest expense unless you can find a set at a yard sale.
My input would be to make your own and save a ton of money.

As far as begining your hollow out, start with the largest diameter forstner bit you can use. If the bit has a long shank, drill as far as possible, just remember to pull out often.

Bill Bolen
12-07-2008, 11:55 AM
Tom: I use two homemade steadys. The pic is the steady rest I use for HF's. Just some scrap plywood and wheels are from inline skates I bought on ebay for $1. The arms are just T track. Took longer for the glue to dry than it did to make the whole piece. About an hour and a half in the shop. I use the steady as soon as possible in the hollowing process. I have it in place to drill out the piece. I use the biggest drill bit I have(11/16 X 10" long) for thefirrst try at reaching the depth I need. Then switch to a 1/2" X 18" electricians bit to get to final depth. Wish I had abigger longer bit to getto my final depth but I use what I have...Bill..

Steve Schlumpf
12-07-2008, 12:02 PM
Proof that homemade doesn't have to be beautiful to work!

103026

Matt Wolboldt
12-07-2008, 8:09 PM
Steve, How do you adjust the wheels to touch the vessel? I'm assuming the rails slide, but I'm not sure how you attached them.

Bernie Weishapl
12-07-2008, 9:46 PM
Tom you can build your own as has been suggested. I built two of them. I couldn't find any inline skates so went to Target and bought a pair for I think $9.95. Gives you 8 rollers so enough to make two.

ROY DICK
12-07-2008, 9:52 PM
Steve, How do you adjust the wheels to touch the vessel? I'm assuming the rails slide, but I'm not sure how you attached them.
What Matt said, and with all the turnings you do how do you keep it so clean? :D

Leo Van Der Loo
12-08-2008, 12:31 AM
Tom have a look at Herman de Vries he has a good and simple setup for his large General, also copied by many other turners with good results

http://www.hdv.net/2004/turning%20a%20large%20vase%20-%20freehand.pdf

Steve Schlumpf
12-08-2008, 12:50 AM
Matt & Roy - the T-channel is held to the 2x4s with 1/4 20 bolts and T handles. Loosen the handle and slide the wheel into place so it touches the turning. I usually give everything a spin by hand before applying power - to make sure it is centered.

Clean? LOL ... I like working in a clean area and usually clean as I go - within reason. Right now I am doing rough outs and will scoop up the shavings for safety reasons and clean & wax the ways to prevent rust but won't really clean the area until I know someone is coming over (shop tour) - OR - I can't stand it anymore!

Tom Storey
12-08-2008, 3:28 AM
Looks like the consensus is that I should build rather than buy. I'll give 'er a go. Thanks for the help. Tom

john taliaferro
12-08-2008, 11:30 AM
i think its about 20" in side. i paid 38 $ for wheeles

Skip Spaulding
12-08-2008, 5:59 PM
Some great ideas out there, great site Leo! Steve, wish I could be so neat! It's not a bad thing:D

Jim Kountz
12-08-2008, 7:20 PM
Just thought I would chime in here and let everyone know that I have a second hand store near me that has literally boxes and boxes of used inline skates. The pair I bought I think I paid $2 or something like that. If anyone needs any let me know maybe I can help out.

Tom Storey
12-13-2008, 2:59 AM
This took 2-3 hours and, although I've not tried it yet, it should work fine!

Steve Schlumpf
12-13-2008, 9:45 AM
Tom - your steady rest looks like it should do the job just fine! Nice work!