Table Questions

[Mark Kelly]

Attached is a *simple* CAD drawing I am making of a table that I want to make. Shaker style I believe. However, I have questions on how to do the drawers in a table of this design.

1) First, what is the best way to cut out the holes for the drawers?

2) What would one use to *hold* the drawers or drawer runners?

3) To consider this fine furniture, is it necessary to hide the drawer holding method (#2)?

[Andy London]

What I have done in the past is take a board that is wide enough for the rail where the drawer opening will be, mark the face where the drawers will go then rip it. First rip would be for the top portion, second is the spacers between the drawers, third is the bottom part of the rail. To ensure everything gets glued back together properly so that the grain matches back up, I generally number them.

Cut the drawer openings on your miter saw, joint the edges of everything and glue it up.

Personally I use wood sliders on the sides.

To answer your last question, it os my personal opinion yes. If a table had metal slides on the sides or bottom, I wouldn't consider it fine furniture.

Andy

[Mark Kelly]

Could you expand on how you would install the wood sliders for the drawers? I am very new at this and I have some ideas, but I come here to figure which is the best way! Thanks for your info already.

[Alan Turner]

Mark,
Wood slides, for sure. You can either mount full internal dividers, with an "L" shape at the bottom, for the drawers, using a dust cover if you wish, or mount internal dividers, and use a Japanese hanger/slider method for the drawers. I would probably choose the latter as a drawer hung in such a fashion works quite smoothly. Mount a 3/4" rail/runner on the divider, perhaps 3/8" thick, and let a groove into the drawer side to accomodate this runner. A bit of wax if need be, and the drawer will work smoothly for many years. My principal desk, used everday since 1979, still works well, now 25 years later, and I hung the drawers in this fashion. I think I would blind mortise the rail into the aprons, and might use a single screw each in the 6 dividers into the bottom of the table top, in the middle, assuming that the top is solid wood, edge joined the long way on the table. This will avoid any long term sag. Your drawing does not show the grain direction on the table top, so I am just assuming the boards woud run the long way.
Since I love making and installing drawers, I am a bit jealous of your plans.

Alan

[Mark Kelly]

Jealous? I wish I was jealous....I am NERVOUS about making it!

Yes, the top will be solid wood edge joined the long way.

Should the divider or rail that holds the drawer runner be the same width as the apron? I would think it would have to extend past the bottom of the drawer so as to attach a piece of plywood on the bottom to hide the drawers--from all those who like to look under tables! :)

Thanks!

[Martin Shupe]

Mark,

If you can go to your local library or large bookstore, look for one of Norm Abram's first two project books. I can't remember which one, but one has a "library table" plan that would be useful for you to review. It explains how to cut out the drawer fronts and reglue the front together, and it also shows his version of how to build drawer supports. I think if you read how Norm did it, a lot of your questions will be answered.