Cabinet install on a sloping floor

[Erik Oerter]

I am about ready to install new base and wall cabinets in my kitchen. The problem is that the floor and the almost parallel-to-the-floor ceiling slope downhill on the order of 2 inches for the 10 foot long run of cabinets (slope is in the same direction as the long axis of the cabinets). It's an old house and there is no good way to level the concrete slab floor. I have made it relatively flat by using self-leveling compound and grinding.

For the base cabinets: what is my best approach to deal with this? I am thinking about splitting the slope difference and making the point halfway down the cabinet run as the countertop height. That way I will scribe and trim the base of the cabinets on the high side and shim the cabinets on the low end. As far as I can tell, the difference will be noticeable in the toe kick height and marginally noticeable as a lower countertop and a higher countertop on each end. What do you guys think?

For the wall cabinets, there is no good way to trim the top of the cabinets that won't be noticable, so, then I am left with adding 2 inches of trim to the top of the cabinets to get their underside to be parallel to the level countertop. This doesn't seem very satisfactory (very noticable). Any thoughts on this problem?

Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have!

[Rob Diz]

When Norm did his install on his kitchen project, he split the difference on the base cabinets. I had a similar problem on my kitchen cabinet install, but less of a drop. I was using the Blum Leg levelers, so once I set my line, it was relatively easy to get everything level. Now cutting the kickboard that went against the legs was a bit more of a hassle with all of the scribing.

For the top, I ended up installing a new soffict/drywall, so I had a (relatively) level surface to work with. If you can't use trim, and have 2 inches to cover in 10 feet, I would consider adding a false drywall top that acts as your leveler. Likely a hassle to build, but will likely not be that noticeable once you have everything installed.

[john bateman]

In my old house, whoever installed the cabinets did pretty much as you intend, for the bases.

For the hanging cabinets, they installed them level, then built a soffit up to the ceiling, which sort of masks the irregularity up there. The soffit turned out to be useful when I had central A/C installed...it was a place to run some ductwork.

[David Giles]

Try measuring 2 ft away from the wall. My floor slope was much greater along the wall than at the cabinet front. Oh, and set the cabinet height based on the floor to top dimension measured 2 ft out from the wall.

You might be able to start at the high point and level from there if people can't see both ends of the installed cabinet.

Leg levelers force a minimum cabinet height at the high point.

You've got the key point, though. Keep the cabinets level, no matter what the height. Unlevel cabinets give a haunted house impression. Trim out the top cabinets as best you can and call it a day. I like Rob's false drywall idea for the uppers.

[Jim Becker]

I try to deal with this by making the base for my cabinetry separate from the cabinet carcasses. It's much, much easier to customize and level a short base first than it is to tweak whole cabinet carcasses...

[Jeff Duncan]

The rule of thumb is start installing at the highest point in the kitchen and work you way out shimming as you go. You can do the 50/50 split, but be aware of where appliances go so your not scribing so much you can no longer fit a d/w or ???
good luck,
JeffD

[Jim Kountz]

If Im understanding correctly the ceiling is out by the same amount as the floor? Otherwise once you have the base cabs set and level the wall cabs should look fine as compared to them right? Now then if your ceiling slopes like the floor does I would either go with the soffit idea or in the case of an install I just did last month, the customer elected to strip the ceiling down to the framing. We then leveled down with a laser about 1/2" or so from the LOWEST rafter/ceiling joist. Then we just sistered 2x4's along the joists to the laser line, re-drywalled and the result was a perfectly level ceiling. He did this since his wall cabs went full height to the ceiling. It was a little more work but it made the end result 1000 times better.

[Karl Brogger]

Do you have any appliances that are height critical? A range or dishwasher? Keep those at the height they need to be, work around for the heights. I recently installed a kitchen that floor was really bad in. Had to scribe parts, and shim others to get it to work properly.

[Bill Huber]

To start with I have never done anything like that but I was thinking how I would do it.

I think I am with Jim on this make the base top level and then put the cabinets on it.

I think this is what you have and the way I think I would do it.



102932

[Jay Jolliffe]

On all my cabinets I make a sub base out of 2x6 & rip it to the size I need for the kick space under the cabinet. Install it level both ways end to end, front to back. Then set the cabinets on the sub base. I did a long set of built in book cases that the floor was out 2 1/2" from end to end. Put the sub base in level & there was no problem. The cases were 16' long. I put in over 100' of book cases in this house & because the floor was so off I had to do the sub bases first.

[Ed Peters]

Another strong vote for seperate bases to aid in levelling before the lower casework is set. For the top. if you will be using crown molding, the fix is easy. Just adjust the spring angle on the molding to reduce the visual appearance of the slope. Set it correctly on the high end and then slowly roll it up towards the ceiling as the gap closes.

Ed

[Phil Thien]

I've never done it but I also vote for the separate sub-based made from 2x material. I think it would also make the cabinets easier to cut (no notches) the cabinets will be slightly smaller (and therefor easier to handle/install), will save some finished plywood and other material that is more expensive than 2x, etc.

Some day when I do my kitchen I am absolutely going to go with a separate base.