pen finish

[ryan kelley]

I just started on pens and don't quite have the CA/BLO finish down yet, but already have people wanting to buy pens. Problem is that I need a good durable finish. Any advice for a newbie until I master CA/BLO. Can I put multiple coats of shellawax, or can I friction laquer or poly. I am in a bind and need the help. Thank you.

[Jeff Nicol]

Ryan, I have not yet mastered the BLO/CA method my self. It takes a little getting used to on how much CA and the speed of the lathe. I like to just use the BLO first to pop the grain (Any drying oil will do: Danish, Tung etc.) then turn the pen slowly or by hand and using a nitrile or other protective glove flow the CA on and let it harden. Then sand out any ripples and buff out. Type of wood dictates if a second coat is needed. This way I don't get any thing stuck to the pen or have stuff spraying around if you use to much CA. The end result is probably the same or better as you end up with more glue on the pen instead of the paper towl/rag. Try it and see what you think, the time it takes to do is about the same for me.

Have fun and post pics!

Jeff

[Steve Trauthwein]

Ryan,

I have been turning pens for five years and have not mastered the ca/blo technique. I have tried it many times with intemittent success but nothing approaching what I would require for this to be my only finish.

I simply finish with ca glue and have sold many pens, none returned for finish problems.

The method I use is to sand a finish turned piece to 1200 grit. If it is a porous or open grain I will do a ca slurry early in the process with 220 0r 320 grit paper. Once the pen is snaded I apply thin ca at 500 rpm's, I do this by folding a paper towel into a thin strip so I have a half a dozen layers of towel to squirt a line of ca on. I do this close to the turning pen blank and quickly wipe both blanks. I allow a few minutes to let this dry and then do it two more times. After the three coats of thin ca I will apply four coats of thick ca in a similar manner. It takes longer between coats of thick ca.

After the seven coats of ca have been applied and cured I start sanding with 400 grit paper. I usually make two light passes with this grit just to even the ca. One must be careful not to sand through the finish (done this many times in the beginning). I will sand through 1200 grit and then micromesh from 2400 to 12000. I use the micromesh wet and this keeps it from loading up.

After the micromesh I apply two coats of a good floor wax with carnauba in it. I buff between coats.


Hope this helps, any questions just send me an email.

Regards, Steve

[Bernie Weishapl]

I dropped the BLO from the finish and just use straight CA. I pretty much do what Steve does except I buff mine rather than micro mesh. Be careful when you buff and don't get to rough or apply to much pressure or you will burn thru the CA finish. One other finish you might try and I have had good luck with it to apply lacquer and burn it in on the lathe with a old T-shirt.

[Jim Podsedly]

Ryan,

i have been using the Enduro finishing system from Bear Tooth Woods and have had good results.

I do not like the fumes from CA.

Jim

[John Terefenko]

I just learned a method from a member on the IAP site and though I have not tried it yet, it made all the sense in the world. When we finish pens we are always in a hurry to assemble and see the final results. Using CA can lead to problems like fumes or stuck bushings and the like. What this person suggested and you can use CA or poly which are your 2 harder finishes, but take them off the lathe and finish them. Use some dowels that will slide into the tubes and use some masking tape or double sided tape so the dowel doesn't spin in the tube. Make some sort of cradle to hold the blank and dowel setup. Now apply the finish of choice, he uses a q-tip and says it works great. The idea is to put light coats on just like on the lathe so as to not run. Let sit there to dry and work on another blank and then do the same thing. When dry add another coat and keep doing this until desired coats are achieved. Now place back on the lathe and sand or micromesh tiull you are satisfied. I will be trying this method for sure. You could also spray them with lacquer and let cure the way it is suggested. Just another way of doing things. I think the blo that is used alot is an unnecessary step. I have finished with thin CA and no problems.

[Mark Hix]

Ask 20 penturners and you will get 25 answers. The reason I like the Ca finish is the durability. The only way I learned to do it was practice practice practice. I leave out the BlO on the light woods and antlers. I usually use medium CA. I usually sand w/320, go to 400, apply the finish, then micromesh thru the sizes. I get a better finish if I let it cure overnight before using the MM.

Pick one way of doing it and try to perfect it. Everyone is a little different. If after a dozen trys, you can't get it, try another method.