Emmert Clone gets a hand wheel!

[Alan DuBoff]

This did actually work out very nicely. Luckily I didn't destroy my pattern maker's clone vise smacking on it to get the spring pin back in.

This applies a very nice amount of tension without having to crank on it.

I am pretty happy with this small project. :cool:

[Jim Koepke]

Looks sweet.

Hope to one day be able to convince SWMBO that I am worthy of such a vise.

jim

[Alan DuBoff]

Jim,

You are worthy of one of these, they don't cost too much, in fact I find them quite a deal at $200. This is such a useful vise for me, I use it for all types of stuff.

This handwheel works pretty good on it, I'm impressed.

I might need to do a short video to show it.

[Chuck Tringo]

Where can you find them at 200 ? Ive been drooling over LVs, but thats over 600, and by default low on the priority list.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Chuck, You can buy the Emmert Asian import clone new for about $240 now at Woodcraft or any number of other retailers. If anyone does any amount of shaping of irregular parts, a patternmaker's vise is a most useful tool to have. The small anvil shaped jaws are great for spindles and other long narrow parts where a full width jaw gets in the way of your work.

Now I understand your use of the handwheel Alan. Nice concept and execution. Somehow I don't think I could bring myself to do it to my K-1 though.

[John Schreiber]

This may be a stupid question but, why is a wheel better than a bar?

[Chuck Nickerson]

This may be a stupid question but, why is a wheel better than a bar?

If one has drawers under the bench, a vise handle can be in the way of opening drawers.

Alan - for those of us who are machinist-impaired, where does one get the correct wheel?

[Alan DuBoff]

Now I understand your use of the handwheel Alan. Nice concept and execution. Somehow I don't think I could bring myself to do it to my K-1 though.
This is certainly not for everyone, IMO, but my vise is my end vise, so I wanted it to be able to adjust quickly, not that it is needed, but it operates much quicker. Also, maybe it makes more sense in how my vise is the end vise, so the wheel is on my strong hand, and I'm facing the proper direction to work it. It also provides plenty of torque when I do need to tighten down, even with 1 hand I can get a lot of leverage on the wheel by even just leaning into it.

This may be a stupid question but, why is a wheel better than a bar?
Primarily for repositioning, it's way quicker to open/close it 5" at a crack with a few spins of the wheel.

Alan - for those of us who are machinist-impaired, where does one get the correct wheel?
I got this one at Enco, it's a Jergen's Aluminum 6" wheel (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=505-4663&PMPXNO=948711). I measured from the center of the vise screw where the t-handle attaches to the end of the end screw, and it looked like it would just be shy of the top, which it is.

I also went with aluminum for weight reasons, but cast iron could be smoother, just would be a lot more weight on the vise. However, a 6" wheel is not nearly as heavy as the 10" cast iron wheel I have, but I don't have one to weigh and couldn't figure out online how much one does in fact weigh.

The emmert clone has a .308" hole with a spring pin, I just knocked it out with a .308 dead center pin. I drilled the cross pin holes at the same depth as the t-handle, 3/8" OC from the edge. I got mine from Woodcraft with my b-day discount a couple years ago, it looks like both them and Highland raised the prices to $240, still a great deal , IMO. WC gives 10% for your birthday. When I bought mine it was $199 less the 10%.. Watch for it to go on sale, they probably will at some point.

Because I have it setup as an end vise, I will be using it with dog holes alone the front of the bench. The wheel will help a LOT in that case for being able to quickly reposition and secure pieces between the dogs.

I like it a lot so far, I'll know better after I shape a new handle for the saw I just made...:rolleyes: