Age of my Unisaw?

[Ken Casser]

I've searched and searched, but must be using the wrong terms. Anyway, where can I find out how old my saw is? I talked with a service center rep, but he couldn't tell me. A parts list I have says it needs bearings with an extended inner race if it is "older", or a different bearing if it is newer. This was written in 1985. I don't know the cutoff between older and newer. The previous owner of this saw replaced the bearings, but I want to be sure it has the right ones before I start using it. It is a Model 34-450, EM 3377.

Thank you for your guidance!

[Joshua O Lilburn]

1970ei-209-ep-5295

[Ken Casser]

I thought the serial number was EM 3377. If not, I'll have to look somewhere else on the saw because that's the only number I could find other than the 34-450 model number. Any idea of where I should look?

[Ken Casser]

Thank you, Joshua. I went to that website, but couldn't find what you gave me. What do the numbers mean?

[Joshua O Lilburn]

Yes you got it right. your serial number falls between EI-209 and EP-5295 making your saw a 1970.

I have a 34-450 a couple years newer

[Joshua O Lilburn]

the delta serial numbers are under the Machine Number tab

and

pick the Wiki Knowledge base

[Ken Casser]

Do your bearings have the "Extended Inner Race"? Thank you!

[Joshua O Lilburn]

Sorry I am not sure. I have been reluctant to change them out as of yet. The saw runs smooth and passes the nickle and penny test. I kind of figure if it is not broken why fix it at this point. I have other items to do more pressing. My saw is a 1974.

[Ken Casser]

Okay, I have much to learn! I did a SEARCH on the Nickel and Penny Test and came up with no explanation. How do I find that out?

Thanks for your help.

[Pete Bradley]

I'm nearly certain that a 1970 machine will not have extended inner race bearings. The best approach though is to pull the bearings and read the numbers off them. If you're not comfortable with the procedure, Saw Center in Massachusetts will do it for you.

Pete

[Joshua O Lilburn]

Nickle test or penny test. Stand a nickle and or a penny on edge on the saw. turn the saw on and then off to see if they stay standing.

[Ken Casser]

Cool! I'll try it.

[Ken Casser]

Pete - Thanks. I'm going to leave the bearings 'as is'. They're brand new, without the extended inner race. I'm guessing that in 1985 when the update was done, a 1970 machine was still considered 'newer'. Presumably the guy who replaced the bearings bought the right ones.

Joshua - Is that with or without the blade mounted? I got the both the nickel and the penny to stay upright, but I did it after the saw was running. :o Tonight I'm putting in a new arbor, so I'll test it, the right way, again. :D

[Joshua O Lilburn]

I did it with the blade installed. But you can't have the coin in the path of air that gets pushed by the blade.

[Chip Lindley]

If the previous owner says he replaced the bearings, and everything is tight, (not binding) you are lucky to probably never need replacing them again while you own this saw. If incorrect bearings had been installed, your saw would not be usable at all. If you can grab the threaded end of the saw arbor and feel no *play* in and out when pushing/pulling on it, all is good!

Worn bearings can be heard when the machine is running. A whirring, grinding, metallic sound (ball bearings with no lube, like a rock in a tin can) Bad bearings can be felt when rotated by hand. Roughness can be felt when rotated by hand, not silky smoothness, but like like little flat spots inside (which truly may be the case) If none of the above is detected, just enjoy your Unisaw as is! Good Luck!

[Ken Casser]

Thank you Joshua and Chip.

I tried the nickel/penny test. It worked with the nickel, but I had trouble getting the penny to stand even with the saw off. I think it would help if the table top were level :rolleyes: (my basement floor is a little uneven). I'll work on that later.

Chip - Thanks - I haven't checked the arbor by pushing it in and out, but I'm pretty sure that is tight. I do get a few thousandths of play when I pull it up and down which disturbs me a little. And, even after installing a brand new arbor, it still looks like there's 0.003 or 0.004 out at the base of the shaft, but it cuts well, so I think I'm trying too hard to find flaws. I did screw up one thing, but hopefully not terribly. :o It didn't have a 'lockwasher' on it when I got the saw, so, when I purchased the new arbor I also bought a lockwasher. I couldn't tell from the spec sheet which way to install it, so, of course, I put it in backwards. As I tightened the nut, the arbor would bind a little, so I backed off the nut a bit thinking that there was a spring action in the lockwasher and that I shouldn't make it too tight. Wrong! I turned the saw on and off maybe six times doing the nickel test and went to bed. Overnight I realized that I must have the lockwasher in backwards. When I took it apart this morning, the bearing seal came out with it. The lockwasher had cut the seal away from the bearing and the seal was imbedded in the lockwasher. I peeled it out and put it back on the bearing, turned the lockwasher around and put the nut on. Now, of course, I could tighten the nut very well, and all binding was gone. I turned on the motor and it was smooth as silk. :) I'm hoping that the lockwasher will keep the seal in place, and that the bearing won't become a problem. If it does, it's easy enough to replace. Mounting my blade adds a touch of vibration, but I suppose I should expect that. The nickel test still works, even with the table out of level, so I should be very happy. I'll try different blades, etc, tonight, to see if there is any change in the runout.

Sorry that this thread has gone off the track, but I do appreciate your help!