Penn State Industries Table Saw Dust Collection Guard

[Rick Hubbard]

I'm thinking about getting one of these and mounting it on the ceiling above my TS.

Has anyone done the same? How does it work?

Thanks,

Rick

[Jim Kountz]

I made one a couple of years ago, if I get a chance Ill snap a pic or two and post it. As far as the workings of it, mine does a great job of keeping things out of my face and the dust collection is ok, not great but it does grab some of the dust. The main thing I like about having it come down from the ceiling as opposed to the cantilever design is I can just push it up out of the way when I dont need it. I just bought a new Jet saw that came with a Delta cantilever guard somewhat like the Penn State design. I hate it and removed it from my saw. If anyone is interested I would sell it but thats another post in another forum!

EDIT: I added the picture. Yes , someday I will finish the walls and ceiling in my shop!

[Rick Hubbard]

Hey Jim!

That's a pretty slick setup. Nice Work!!

I'm sort of wondering how much the material cost would be on this (plus I'm challenged when it comes to metal working in any way that involves anything more than drilling a hole :o). Maybe I would be ahead of the game to spend the $125 ????

Rick

[Bill Arnold]

Rick,

I've looked at that system several times, but don't want an arm coming from the side. I found this (http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml) design that I plan to build sometime soon. It looks a lot like Jim's.

[John Hedges]

I have had that setup for a number of years now are really like it. The PSI basket is not the stoutest of designs, but it fills the bill for my uses.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/hedgehog55/Workshop3/IMG_1946.jpg?t=1228240024

[Rick Hubbard]

Hi Bill-

I agree with you about the arm coming in from the side. According to the Penn State information, however, they say that the arm can be mounted on the ceiling (which is what I want/intend) to do.

Nevertheless, thanks for the information about a shop built unit. As I said, I'd need to weigh the relative cost of buying from Penn State or building from scratch.

Rick

[glenn bradley]

I have had that unit for a few years. I intended to mount it from overhead but the arm swings out of the way very easily. This allows very quick 'away' and 'back' placement which I find meets 99% of my needs. I was quite surprised because I thought the mast would be in my way.

On the rare occasion that I need that room to the right, the mast removes with a couple turns of the screws. I have only done this twice the whole time it has been installed on two different saws in two shops. I do wish the hose did not reduce to 2.5". There seems to be plenty of suck but just not enough volume in motion. Maybe this will be solved when I move from my current 1HP DC to my 2HP waiting in the wings.
I'll try to remember to report specifically on the overarm with the more powerful DC.

My dad bought the Exaktor and although it appeared really well made, it was just too big for his shop. He didn't want to give up the clearance required and he reluctantly returned it ;-) If you've got the room and the cash, it is a better unit. The PSI is still doing fine for me even prior to the impending upgrade of my DC.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I found that a floor mount hood works best.
-Jeff :)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/Tablesawupsidedown609x543.jpg

[glenn bradley]

Jeff's example explains everything I have been doing wrong ;-)]

[Brad Townsend]

I had the PSI system and didn't care much for it. (In fact I still have it. It's in storage in the attic of my shop.:rolleyes:) Found it cumbersome to install. Kind of a pain to use and really didn't collect all that much dust. Went to a SharkGuard and am very happy with it.

[Rick Hubbard]

I found that a floor mount hood works best.
-Jeff :)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/Tablesawupsidedown609x543.jpg
Hey Jeffrey- where can I buy one of those?

[Jim Fox]

My biggest question has always been how can you guys stand to work with those contraptions in your way? Seems to me it would be more of a hassle than anything. But then again, maybe not ever having one doesn't allow me to understand them.

[Rick Hubbard]

My biggest question has always been how can you guys stand to work with those contraptions in your way? Seems to me it would be more of a hassle than anything.

Ah, yes. Therein lays another concern of mine. How much of an annoyance is this thing likely to create? If the boom can be mounted on the ceiling above the TS and IF the boom can be swung up and out of the way, it looks to me like it might have a pretty low aggravation factor. If NOT, then I predict it would not promote the kind of “shop happiness and harmony” that I prefer.

Does anyone know if this unit CAN be rotated up and away?

Rick

[Fred Belknap]

Like your shop especilly the way you roll up your power cords. Works.

[John Hedges]

Ah, yes. Therein lays another concern of mine. How much of an annoyance is this thing likely to create? If the boom can be mounted on the ceiling above the TS and IF the boom can be swung up and out of the way, it looks to me like it might have a pretty low aggravation factor. If NOT, then I predict it would not promote the kind of “shop happiness and harmony” that I prefer.

Does anyone know if this unit CAN be rotated up and away?

Rick


Rick,

If you look at the picture in my post above you will see that the whole thing does rotate up and away. You can see a little red tube where the whole thing connects and this is the hinge point. Just turn the knob a half turn, rotate it up and it stays there. Takes all of about 1 second. I have used this unit since I started woodworking 4 years ago. Maybe I'm used to it but I have never considered it in the way. In fact I feel kind of naked when I rotate it out of the way to use my sled. I think this is something you get used to using pretty quickly. As a note mine does real well on dust collection. The real problem is when you trim the end of the board and the outside of the blade is exposed. In these cases it shoots the dust out the front at such a velocity that I dont think any dc would capture it. The secret I think is to get some sort of short flexible brush on the outside edge that would prevent this.

[james gerus]

I have the Penn State Guard and am happy with it on a 52 inch wide Unisaw. When ripping narrow pieces you need to raise the guard above the fence. Jim

[glenn bradley]

My biggest question has always been how can you guys stand to work with those contraptions in your way? Seems to me it would be more of a hassle than anything. But then again, maybe not ever having one doesn't allow me to understand them.

I only find them practical for sheet goods or ripping reasonably wide stock. In those situations they really help keep the spoil under control. Mine swings easily out of the way for sled or other jig cuts, miter gauge work etc. It is only in play around 10% of the time, if that, for me. I thought I would use it more but as it turns out, the things I enjoy doing don't include sheet goods as a rule. For folks who do a lot of sheet work, cabinet carcasses, bookshelves, etc. they would be more valuable I would think.