So, you always wanted to build handsaws...finally some fiber!

[Alan DuBoff]

Ok, for those keeping score at home, you have noticed that making handsaws doesn't involve too much woodworking, unfortunately. But the best part of it does, the handle. I'll be honest, it is actually one of the only things on the saws I build that is crafted by hand. This is the the one area of my saws that has a piece of me, and every one is slightly different. :)

In a way, this is the best part of making a handsaw...having some interesting grain...the unusual patterns...at least speaking for myself this has always been the one area that sets various makers apart, and the one part of building handsaws that I enjoy the most.

Since I couldn't come up with anything original, I copied one of my own designs...:rolleyes:

I'm not done yet, but working on it today and this is where I've got.

The picture on the left shows the handle after I cut it out on a scroll saw. The middle picture is how I start working it, getting it into a rough shape on the right. Now I need to continue with some of the details and the cheeks, as well as cleaning up the tongue.

[Jim Koepke]

Nice work.

Show us more as it is done.

jim

[Jim Becker]

Really nice work, Alan!

I'm curious as to how you ultimately get the slot in the handle to capture the saw blade and wonder why it's not done before you do the intricate shaping?

[Johnny Kleso]

Looks like one of those old school handles from the UK :)

[Alan DuBoff]

JimK, you ask and you shall receive! ;) Here's a pic of the double nibs!

JimB, there are a few ways to cut the slot, but I do it with a handsaw that has very little set. I usually use an old Disston 68, the plate is about .020". The way I do it is to mark around the front/bottom of the cheeks in the middle, and then slowly cut around the cheek. The reasons I don't do that before I add some of the detail are because the tongue needs to be carved before cutting the slot, hopefully the slot will go into the tongue so the end of the blade is held between it. However, I will wait to chamfer the shoulders until after I get it slotted, so that I can compensate for any amount being off center. So, the chamfers on the top shoulders and the chamfers around the cheeks will be done after it is slotted. The other way I start the slot is on my small mini-mill. I just take a piece of aluminum and lay the handle on top, and cut it around freehand to put a small .020" slot around the middle. I then just use the handsaw to cut it by hand. This procedure is not that hard to do by hand, and how I prefer it. If you take your time you can get it centered. I like to work my way around slowly, continuing to make the slot and little deeper at a time, ensuring it's straight, and finally once you get a decent amount cut it will guide the hand saw in the kerf.

Johnny, yes, this is pattered off the London Pattern Handle, but the cheeks are fairly low profile. The reason is to get clearance for sharpening, so there will be a couple inches to easily clamp inside of the saw vise. Also, this saw is getting split-nuts on it which I got from you. I will re-slot the washer to 1/16" so they are easier to tighten/loosen, and hopefully don't get horked up as easy. The slots that you had put in them are kinda small, I find a slightly deeper/wider slot helps when securing the handle. This is easy enough on my Nichols as I created a bolt that fits in a 1-2-3 block, so I can secure a washer in the block, and just clamp it in a vise. On a vertical mill you would need to use an arbor most likely with the washer held vertical. That is how I slotted the first bronze washers at my friend's shop, but the Nichols makes such easy work out of it with a 1-2-3 block.

Pic attached...

[Brian Ward]

I've been using a cheap Crown dovetail saw to cut the kerf for the blades in my handles. You just have to go very slowly. I also do it after shaping the handle and it's nearly ready for finishing--the vise holds it better without the kerf.

It helps to make a few practice runs on scraps. This also allows for a test-fit of the blade to the kerf.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for the explanation, Alan...my mind was mulling that and now I can visualize exactly what you do. :)

[Alan DuBoff]

Jim,

I'll try to get a couple pics to show exactly.

But the other thing I wanted to add is that I get a center by using a tite-mark marking gage by running it on each side of the cheeks to split the difference. I just try to get that close, ideal would be to have the space the same width as the blade, but that rarely happens.;)

Then I usually take that to the mini-mill and put a light cut around the cheek/top. In the past I have done this by hand, and it works just fine doing it by hand completely.

Brian,

Seems we have another saw maker in the area? Looks like your up in the city. Making saws is fun, wish I could do it faster...:rolleyes:

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Alf (Alice Frampton) had a method in a Lee Valley newsletter sometime back. Basically it is the same as the Tools for Working Wood kit saws:
http://www.leevalley.com/newsletters/Woodworking/1/5/article3.htm

fwiw, we slot, mortise for the backs, drill the handle and blades before shaping.

Take care, Mike

[Brian Ward]

Jim,
Brian,

Seems we have another saw maker in the area? Looks like your up in the city. Making saws is fun, wish I could do it faster...:rolleyes:

Yeah, sort of, but not at any super-advanced level. I got into it mostly out of necessity, as old iron can be difficult to find around here. I started by retoothing cheap new saws. Then I noticed that making new handles for them was kind of addictive, and somehow I now have a Gramercy sawmaker's rasp and several saw projects piled up.

I'm not very fast at it either, but I find that it takes only a few evenings of work to mill the wood, cut the pattern from the template, and shape. This is all by hand, of course, but I don't think machines would help all that much, other than maybe a powered scroll saw instead of the coping saw (beech is not exactly the most cooperative stuff around). It's the finishing stage that takes forever.

[Alan DuBoff]

Yeah, sort of, but not at any super-advanced level. I got into it mostly out of necessity, as old iron can be difficult to find around here.
I actually find it not too bad around the area, have found several decent saws over at the Alameda flea, as I have at garage sales around the area.

Like anything, you have to be looking for the stuff to find it. ebay makes it really easy to find interesting saws, and they sell for reasonable prices, although they are going up these days. I don't buy much anymore, have more interest in making my own saws.

I started by retoothing cheap new saws. Then I noticed that making new handles for them was kind of addictive, and somehow I now have a Gramercy sawmaker's rasp and several saw projects piled up.
I love the sawmaker's rasps, very nice. I wish I had one like them with a flat, rather than round. I would like to get more rasps, and will in the future most likely, but have what I need to get things done. I use the finer sawmaker's rasp more, although I have both of them. Some day I'll get a couple Auriou or Grammercy. I'm actually happy with the Grammercy and like to give Joel my business. The prices on the Auriou seems to have gone up with the recent shipping...

I'm not very fast at it either, but I find that it takes only a few evenings of work to mill the wood, cut the pattern from the template, and shape. This is all by hand, of course, but I don't think machines would help all that much, other than maybe a powered scroll saw instead of the coping saw (beech is not exactly the most cooperative stuff around). It's the finishing stage that takes forever.
Truth be told that the most work is in doing the handle, if one does it by hand as you mention. That is how I do things also. I'm not sure if power would be better suited or not, but if someone was doing handles day-in and day-out, electrons might be something to resort to if one doesn't like doing it by hand. Luckily, that is the one aspect of making saws that I do enjoy the most...doing the handle by hand.

Good to have some other saw makers in the area!

[Alan DuBoff]

fwiw, we slot, mortise for the backs, drill the handle and blades before shaping.
Mike,

I've been thinking about this and I think it makes sense to do it this way. I don't know why I do it the other way...just habit I guess...:rolleyes:

It makes sense to do that before, rather than after the fact as I do, but I think that's because I don't really know what I'm doing and just do it however I can get it done...;)

I have always done as Brian suggests, that it seems to be easier to clamp the handle while working on it without the slot, but I think you do your handles without a vise.

I've been meaning to pick up some Qualasole to try, I know you use that on your handles and it feels nice. I have been using Waterlox and it is also very easy to apply and feels/looks nice, so just keep using it. I have thought about going shellac, and possibly french polish, but know it's not durable...it sure feels nice while it lasts...:)

[Mike K Wenzloff]

We do clamp handles in a parrot vise for certain aspects, such as shaping the chamfers beside the backs, sawing the chamfers on a hand saw handle, shaping the rounded tops of certain handles, paring the mortise out on back saws, etc.

But for general shaping, both William and I use the corner made by the intersection of the bench and face vises on our benches and Kris mainly uses his lap. The link shows me shaping a hand saw handle a few years ago. I never took pictures of the saw between the last picture and the saw being finished.
http://wenzloffandsons.com/saws/kits/

Just faster to flip the handle around rather than loosening and tightening a vise to get to new areas. Speed doesn't mean better. And I do think a vise is necessary for the things I mentioned, though.

Qualasole is a padding lacquer. Applied like shellac and it does contain shellac. When fully cured it is a lacquer. Strange stuff. Used it on furniture, continue to use it on the saws.

Take care, Mike

[Alan DuBoff]

We do clamp handles in a parrot vise for certain aspects, such as shaping the chamfers beside the backs, sawing the chamfers on a hand saw handle, shaping the rounded tops of certain handles, paring the mortise out on back saws, etc.
Ok, that's very similar in how I use the Emmert clone, although I do the general shaping with it also.

http://wenzloffandsons.com/saws/kits/
Nice pics, I have seen those a long time ago.

Just faster to flip the handle around rather than loosening and tightening a vise to get to new areas. Speed doesn't mean better. And I do think a vise is necessary for the things I mentioned, though.
I realize speed doesn't mean better, but maybe some of these things are why it takes me longer to do a handle...although I suspect if I was doing this all the time I would get much more efficient at it.

Qualasole is a padding lacquer. Applied like shellac and it does contain shellac. When fully cured it is a lacquer. Strange stuff. Used it on furniture, continue to use it on the saws.
I have never used it, but like the way it feels on the handsaws you made for me.

[Brian Ward]

I actually find it not too bad around the area, have found several decent saws over at the Alameda flea, as I have at garage sales around the area.

[... ebay... ] I don't buy much anymore, have more interest in making my own saws.

I've had a similar experience. I got my hands on a few gems by digging around--larger saws in particular. But once I had done my first new saw with all-new steel, my interest in acquiring old saws (backsaws in particular) waned.

I should note, though, that the handle template I've been using for my backsaws is based on one from a beat-up Jackson that I got on ebay for 99 cents. The handle was in terrible condition, but the shape was intact, and I really liked it. Copied it for my first attempt at handlemaking, and although it wasn't perfect, it was a good enough introduction and I haven't really looked back.


I love the sawmaker's rasps, very nice. I wish I had one like them with a flat, rather than round. I would like to get more rasps, and will in the future most likely, but have what I need to get things done.For flats, I'm now using one of those Shinto "Saw Rasps" that you sometimes see around. They are wacky tools, but they're cheap and very effective at convex surfaces, especially on the outside edges of a handle. I wouldn't mind thinner versions and it would be interesting to see if they could be made in rounds, but I'll take what I can get. It's all much more effective than the rough cabinet rasp I used to shape my first couple of handles.

Love my new Gramercy fine sawmaker's rasp, too, it makes such quick work of the inside of the handles.


Truth be told that the most work is in doing the handle, if one does it by hand as you mention. That is how I do things also. I'm not sure if power would be better suited or not, but if someone was doing handles day-in and day-out, electrons might be something to resort to if one doesn't like doing it by hand.I had a few thoughts on power tools and saws, mainly that Disston didn't exactly do every stage of their handles by hand. But like you say, making the handle is enjoyable. It's really fun to see that comical-looking piece of a board that you cut out take shape into something that you can really fit into your hand.


Good to have some other saw makers in the area!There are some other folks around. I noticed that a lot of people around here are doing their own frame saws.

Strange, too, I finished up a new handle tonight. Tomorrow hopefully I'll put it on its saw.

[Alan DuBoff]

I've had a similar experience. I got my hands on a few gems by digging around--larger saws in particular. But once I had done my first new saw with all-new steel, my interest in acquiring old saws (backsaws in particular) waned.
I don't own any full size saws without backs, I have only one old Craftsman from the 50s, it's that boxy Disston garbage. This one ain't Sear's Best...:rolleyes: I do most of that type of work with the power tools, full size handsaws are for dimensioning timber for the most part.

Maybe one day I'll make one, but more interested in backsaws.

I should note, though, that the handle template I've been using for my backsaws is based on one from a beat-up Jackson that I got on ebay for 99 cents.
Anything will work, you make it to the handle you want anyway.:)

I have bought saws in crappy condition just for the handle, could come in handy sometime.

For flats, I'm now using one of those Shinto "Saw Rasps" that you sometimes see around.I'm familiar with them, but don't own one. I just use my rasps...

I had a few thoughts on power tools and saws, mainly that Disston didn't exactly do every stage of their handles by hand.
Of course not. He made most of his money off having machines do the work that people once did. That did work well for a while, but the quality just continued to go downhill

The industrial revolution, Disston, electric motors, and even the demise of craftsmanship as it was once known...I will leave that conversation for another thread...rat hole! rat hole!

There are some other folks around. I noticed that a lot of people around here are doing their own frame saws.
Those are nice saws, but different beasts.

Strange, too, I finished up a new handle tonight. Tomorrow hopefully I'll put it on its saw.
Post pics if you get a chance...

No shortage on teeth for this saw! :eek:

Now to go secure it all together...the back, blade, and handle are all just loose fit.

[Ray Gardiner]

Hi Alan,

Nice to see another saw coming out of the workshop! Looks great.

I just finished the first of a few Dovetail saws, that are destined to be Christmas presents. I will post some pictures in another thread later.

Looking at the handle position and the hang angle, it looks to my eye to be too high, at least when compared with other saws of that length and closed handle. I will be interested to hear how it handles.

Regards
Ray

[Jim Becker]

Alan, if you pre-slot the blank, could you not put a scrap piece of blade stock in there to "fill up the space" while you are clamping and working the form? I would think this would make it easier to cut the slot, yet insure that you have a lot of flexibility of where your clamping pressure can go as you move the workpiece around during shaping. Understand that I'm just "thinking out loud" while the latté is working on getting my brain in gear for the day...LOL

[Alan DuBoff]

Ray,

The hang is interesting, my testing shows that it works, but I'll know better after I get it together. If you look at the handle, the lower section has much less hang to it, and the upper section has more, as you noted. You can work the handle and get a low grip with much less hang. Also, you can adjust your index finger to point between the cheeks and the toe through this adjustment. It's interesting, and in my testing it seems to work.

I think it all depends on what type of bench you use it on, etc...this will be filed crosscut. I don't have the teeth set or sharpened yet, so I was only trying it out with a dry fit with those teeth.

Jim,

You could do that and put a piece of stock in there, but that would be kind of a pain in the sense that you really don't want anything sticking out while your working on the handle. You could still clamp it with the slot in the handle, you don't need it to be gorilla tight, monkey tight will do, and I don't think that would cause any problems. There is still plenty of supported area to clamp to.

What I like about doing that up front is that you can fix any problems after, where if you wait to drill and slot until after, there's a good chance that one could make a mistake and a more likely chance it would be a permanent scar. Getting it all together and getting the mortise tight, as well as the counter bores, that stuff is still a bit challenging, but it's not rocket science and certainly satisfying to build one's own tools. Folks shouldn't be cautious to try crafting a saw of their own. Doesn't need to be as elaborate as my setup with the mills and such, there are ways to work around those issues, such as laminating the blade with epoxy.

Like every thing, it's mostly time involved in the labor. The less one does, the less time they invest. My biggest problem is the split-nuts. They take me quite a bit of time. The backs take longer to chamfer and clean up. This reasons are why the kits are pretty costly, I suspect, haven't looked closely at the numbers...just know the kits aren't cheap, but it still offers folks a chance to build their own saw.

I need to get some sleep...the kids are leaving for school...perfect...*lol*

[Brian Ward]

Post pics if you get a chance...

You got it. On the left is the new saw. 13TPI rip, zero-degree rake, 10" long. It's a near-twin of a crosscut version I finished earlier this year.

Then on the right, there's a picture of my next one that I have not finished shaping. It's for a 16" tenon saw. The Shinto saw rasp and the Gramercy sawmaker's rasp are on the left. At the top left in the background is a cutting gauge that I've been working on but haven't put a blade into yet. The top was shaped almost entirely with the saw rasp.

[Alan DuBoff]

Brian,

That handle look good, I like the cheeks, they are just a tad different to set it apart. Post pics when you get the saw done!

Here's the handle pretty much ready for final sanding.

Now, moving on to the assembly phase...:)

[Brian Ward]

That handle look good, I like the cheeks, they are just a tad different to set it apart.

The cheeks are somewhat simplified versions from the Jackson handle on which all of these are based. The biggest change was omitting the bevels from the top front, instead rounding over that area for a continuous curve from top to front.

The basic idea is that although I prefer clean, semi-modern lines, there's no excuse for making an uncomfortable handle. The "tote" portion is very close to the original, profile and all.


Post pics when you get the saw done!Hee. The new tenon saw will likely take a while. Even though I'm done with the teeth already, I'm slow on the handle.

I have another new project in the works, a panel saw of some sort. I've got a gorgeous 1870s Disston panel handle (maybe a #7?) as an original template. I have a feeling that it's going to take a long time to even get started on that, given the rate I go.

[Alan DuBoff]

Brian,

Do I ever understand about taking time to get a saw done, not holding you to your tenon saw anytime soon! ;)

This is the last pic for this thread, I didn't get the blade set and sharpened but will do that and put some finish on this, and it's time for the metal to meet the wood in final assembly. Not as good as the pros, but that's why I'm not a pro... ;)

[Alan DuBoff]

fwiw, we slot, mortise for the backs, drill the handle and blades before shaping.
Believe it or not, this was the most useful comment in this saw build. I'm not sure why I haven't thought to do that, it seems so much better.

One area that has always been difficult for me was getting a decent finish on the wood/brass, where they are smooth.

By doing this first, it allows one to sand the surface smooth to get those desirable results.

I don't know what the split-nuts will look like after I shape the handle, but they look good now! ;)

I was a bit taken when the handle broke, but better it happened at my place that the recipient's...:rolleyes: It also reminded me of one of the saws that you made for me, which I was having you move the hang up on, and the saw had taken a fall when you were testing/working it and snap'd a horn off...I guess every saw maker has a graveyard where those handles rest peacefully...:eek:

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Alan,

Just to add a bit. Though we slot/mortise/drill, we do not flush the bolts until a final assembly. We prefinish the edge of the entire handle. Once assembled, we flush the bolts, do the finish schedule on the sides, being careful to not slop down on the edge of the cheeks and onto the blade, and blend in on the hand hold of the handles.

That way the bolts are not touched after sanding flush. We usually sand to just 220 on the cheeks, though some woods like African Blackwood, Ebonies, Pink Ivory etc, we go much higher.

And, just to make you feel "better," I had a tight-deadline saw I was going to need to FedEx three-day. A nice Indian Rosewood No. 8 half-back. Went to pack and found hairline cracks in it. Another handle for the boneyard.

So, with a good blade (man it cuts nicely), the build gets a tad more complicated being out of sequence. Basically we will need to accurately mortise and drill holes blind in order for the handle to fit accurately in relation to the existing holes in the blade. Such is life. Glad it isn't the first time. Sort of...

Take care, Mike

[Alan DuBoff]

That way the bolts are not touched after sanding flush. We usually sand to just 220 on the cheeks, though some woods like African Blackwood, Ebonies, Pink Ivory etc, we go much higher.
Yeah, that make sense. Do you put finish in the counter bore before assemble also? (I suspect so).

You don't put finish over the brass, do you?

And, just to make you feel "better," I had a tight-deadline saw I was going to need to FedEx three-day. A nice Indian Rosewood No. 8 half-back. Went to pack and found hairline cracks in it. Another handle for the boneyard.
Let me put it this way...it would never make me feel better to know that anyone else would have that happen...

BTW, I think maybe the mortise was too tight on the other saw. The handle was very tight going on. OTOH, the wood could have been weak.

So, with a good blade (man it cuts nicely), the build gets a tad more complicated being out of sequence. Basically we will need to accurately mortise and drill holes blind in order for the handle to fit accurately in relation to the existing holes in the blade. Such is life. Glad it isn't the first time. Sort of...
Hmmm...how do you go about that? I would mark it with a dead center in the old handle, placed over the new handle. I have been marking my blades with a dead center in the bolt hole, gives a pretty accurate mark that I can punch.

Here's the new handle, I'm not sure if I like it, I kinda like the old handle better...but this feels nicer for this saw, I think...

[Ray Gardiner]

Here's the new handle, I'm not sure if I like it, I kinda like the old handle better...but this feels nicer for this saw, I think...

Hi Alan,

I just broke a saw handle, that was almost finished, I was buffing the wax finish on a buffing wheel and it caught and went flying...
I really should have been paying attention...
....and no I'm not trying to make you feel better, in actual fact I'm thinking of blaming you for starting this run of broken handles....:D

Regarding the latest handle, I think I liked the proportions of other one better....

Being critical, I see a weak region where the grain runs across the thinnest part.
Seeing as it's a closed handle and is supported on the other side it might not matter too much.

But with that high hang angle and over a long saw like that.. I'm not too sure.

Regards
Ray

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Alan, yes, finish is applied over the bolts/nuts. It wil slow the natural patina but not prevent it in the long run. No, no finish per se in the counter bores.

I've done the redos a couple methods. Neither is better/more assured than the other. The give a hec about the Disston No. 8 half-backs and other slotted black saws is a little deeper or shallower on the back's mortise and pre-done holes will not line up. A folded back has wiggle room as the back can be budged about a little to fit. A slotted back needs to have everything lined up perfectly.

Well, another cup of Joe and off to the shop.

Take care, Mike

[Alan DuBoff]

....and no I'm not trying to make you feel better, in actual fact I'm thinking of blaming you for starting this run of broken handles....:D
Sure, I'll take the blame! :p

Regarding the latest handle, I think I liked the proportions of other one better....
Me too! But this one feels a lot better as it's bigger, and the hang is not cocked forward at the top, I'm not sure that worked as well as planned.

Being critical, I see a weak region where the grain runs across the thinnest part.
Seeing as it's a closed handle and is supported on the other side it might not matter too much.
There's a grain section running under the front split-nut which I didn't see until after I started to take pics. I think I'm cursed on this plate for some reason...:(

I was gonna try to copy a Peace handle that Mike made for me. It is one of my favorite handles, after he made it he said he didn't want to make them anymore, as the rear is inset in the back of the handle, and it does have the front bolt going through the back. But I changed my mind, not sure why...I was using my shaves on the cheek chamfers and I think I like the clean cut it leaves.

It seems strong, and I'm going to go with this, if it has a problem I'll fix it for the guy.

While this handle doesn't look as nice, it feels good. The hang is not very high on this new handle, I'm not sure which one you refer to.

Hi Alan, yes, finish is applied over the bolts/nuts. It wil slow the natural patina but not prevent it in the long run. No, no finish per se in the counter bores.
Funny, I never thought to put finish over the split-nuts...hmmm...that does make sense also...but I guess this is why you do this for a living...;)

I'll see how the pre-assembly flushing works out, hope I don't have to flush this handle also like that last one...so to speak...:rolleyes: I don't expect it to fit perfect at assembly and suspect I'll still need to flush up the sides. I did take a bit off sanding lightly.


I've done the redos a couple methods. Neither is better/more assured than the other. The give a hec about the Disston No. 8 half-backs and other slotted black saws is a little deeper or shallower on the back's mortise and pre-done holes will not line up. A folded back has wiggle room as the back can be budged about a little to fit. A slotted back needs to have everything lined up perfectly.
Speaking for myself, if I had another plate I might be tempted to just have made an entirely new saw, but I don't have another 18" plate to use...:(

I just marked and punched new holes...so didn't need to line it up.

Thanks for your help Mike, so far I only have a skinned knuckle and a twisted finger which is semi-operational, so I didn't fare out too bad on this build...other than a lot of wasted time...:o

I think I've summed it up pretty good...

"So you always wanted to build handsaws..." :rolleyes:

[Ray Gardiner]

While this handle doesn't look as nice, it feels good. The hang is not very high on this new handle, I'm not sure which one you refer to.



I think feel is more important, stay with it.

What I wrote about high hang didn't make sense, what I meant to say was high handle position.

My strike rate is about 50% on saw handles at the moment. So I think I need to be more careful.

I was looking again at the Kenyon Saw from Berea and am tempted to do a handle with rounded boss like that one.

Regards
Ray

[Alan DuBoff]

I think feel is more important, stay with it.

What I wrote about high hang didn't make sense, what I meant to say was high handle position.

My strike rate is about 50% on saw handles at the moment. So I think I need to be more careful.

I was looking again at the Kenyon Saw from Berea and am tempted to do a handle with rounded boss like that one.

Regards
Ray
Yeah, I'm not sure what I'll do with it, I set it aside and fixed my daughter's bed, which cracked as she was climbing on the sideboard...I did get this fixed.

I'm not having a very good week...other than being able to waste time in the shop, I haven't got much done...:(

I think I just think about this and either finish it in a day or two or make a new handle for it. I'm not totally happy with it.

[Alan DuBoff]

I guess I just have had my fill with this saw, so it's time to move on, I'll be able to redesign the handle when I make the pair of 18" Joiner's saws out of bronze for myself, but I think this saw is what it is and hopefully the guy will appreciate it for what it is...

The previous handle worked for my eye better, proportionally.

This one feels better and the fit and finish has definitely improved on the saw nuts...

One interesting point was that it seemed there could have been a crack on the left side through the grain that runs just under the front saw nut, but after getting it prepped and some finish on it, it appears that is not the case and that it has some open grain that dust from rasping/sanding was in. Handle is still drying, will put it to the test tomorrow...

EDIT: Actually, this shot I like, this is the second handle I've chamfered the inside edge of the mortise corners, I kinda like that. This has a step also. 4th pic shows this.

[Ray Gardiner]

Hi Alan,

That came out pretty well, I think it looks good. Your friend is lucky to be getting such a fine saw.

Regards
Ray

[Alan DuBoff]

Hi Alan,

That came out pretty well, I think it looks good. Your friend is lucky to be getting such a fine saw.
Well, I hope he feels it's worth the old motor I got from him...:rolleyes: But I needed that motor to help make this saw...so.......

I was just cutting with it, it does feel pretty good, and I think it feels better than it did with the other handle, but the other handle had nicer lines for me.

A few observations.

On the first handle there was only 1 3/8" of the back mortised in the handle, and the blade is 18", so a very small portion of the back was secured by the blade, which put more stress on it.

The mortise could have been slightly tight, I try to get it that way, but maybe that one was just too tight.

The position of the saw nuts in relation to the rear of the blade was such that the first handle they were mostly positioned to the rear of the back. I think that was causing extra force possibly.

Maybe some of that had a factor in the break, I don't know, but this one feels stronger and better in the hand, although I could bring the hang down even a bit lower, IMO, it is not too bad at all. It leaves a pretty nice cut if I let the saw do it's own thing, and if I saw hard it gives a pretty good cut, a bit less smooth as the prior. I think the saw nuts on this one are the cleanest of the saws I've made to date.