Critique please

[David Meade]

Spalted Birch, this is turned from a yellow birch standing snapped tree, It was riddled with woodpecker holes. It turned out to be very chalenging due to the extent of decay. 6.5" at brim 3.5" tall, 1/4 thickness. Sanded to 400 grit and waxed on the lathe with bees wax.

[Jon Lanier]

I'd say that is one really pretty bowl. Nice form and wonderful color and grain.

[Dewey Torres]

Hi David ,
Welcome to the Creek. I see you only have a couple of posts. I am not a turner but I am a regular here on the creek and like to say to all the new Creekers as I can.

I like your bowl. Spalted wood is the rage right now. I personally love it as well.

I may suggest theat you introduce yourself to the creek in a post called "Hello all and new to the Creek" or something like that. There are some serious talents here in the way of turning and other woodworking.

See you in anthoer post!:)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

David....Welcome to the Creek.

I like your bowl. The very basic form allows the wood to be the star of the show...

[Jeff Nicol]

David, Beautiful bowl! Spalted yellow birch is one of my favorites to turn! It has a distinct smell that I love! It also produces nice curls that my wife uses to start fires in our woodstove. Welcome and keep up the good work!

Jeff

[Jim Kountz]

Wow that is some very nice looking wood there, good job!

[Jim Becker]

That's a nicely completed project, David.

One thing that you'll likely consider as you do more of these is how you transition from the bowl contour to the base. This piece has a very flat bottom, based on the photos. Nothing "wrong" with that and it's a very stable bowl, especially as a "user". But you have the opportunity to elevate the form aesthetically with some small adjustments. What you'll want to try, however, it to accomplish the same thing while still having a continuous curve from the sides to the bottom. In general, the way to accomplish that is to pre-determine the approximate base size you need (say...about 1/3 the diameter) to have a stable bowl and then work your form so that you gently approach that point with the curve of the bowl sides. Using pull-cuts with the work between centers is a good way to generate the basic form which you then refine with the workpiece held by a chuck or by a glue block on a faceplate if you don't have a chuck. Once you hollow the bowl and reverse it (between centers using a jamb chuck if necessary) you can further refine the "bowl to bottom" transistion and undercut the bottom slightly for a gentle rim.

BTW, this was something taught to me by Phil Brennion, a former president of the AAW and an outstanding turner. Phil is not able to turn at this point due to a debilitating spinal problem that has left him in a chair, but his words and examples from a single two hour session in his shop a number of years back stay with me.

[Steve Schlumpf]

David - Welcome to the Creek!

Jim offered some excellent advice on turning a flowing outside curve on a bowl. Not only does the form become more pleasing to the eye - it is also easier to make the inside transition between wall and bottom.

I really like the rounded rim on your bowl. Gives the entire bowl more of a soft look!

Your photos show off the bowl very well (focus, depth of field) but I would have also liked to have seen a photo showing the inside of the bowl. No big deal - just helps to get an overall picture of the turning.

Nice work! Looking forward to seeing your next turning!

[Bernie Weishapl]

David welcome to SMC. Very nice looking bowl. You have gotten some good advice. Keep'em coming.

[Mike Golka]

Welcome, and nice looking bowl. Like you have already been told, lots of talent and advice here for the asking.

[David Meade]

Inside and Bottom, Thank you for your kind and gentle words.