Mortiser/Tenon Jig or Domino?

[Andy Casiello]

I've been considering the purchase of a benchtop mortiser and a tenoning jig for my TS for some time. I do general woodworking and cabinet making (musical instrument amp and speaker cabinets). I've used a Dewalt biscuit joiner for the small stuff, and drilled/routed mortises when necessary. I'm ready to spring for a Festool ROS and CT22 extractor due to all the sanding I'm doing - and it dawned on me (while "Festdrooling") that the Domino might be a better way to go than the tenon jig/mortiser route.

So, the question - will a Domino eliminate my need for a mortiser, or will I likely need one anyway for larger mortises (furniture) than the Domino can handle?

I just built a Roubo style workbench, and cut 2"x4" mortises by hand - I don't expect either tool to do that - but I don't want to buy a mortiser and a Domino. Will the Domino do most everything I need in this arena?

[Chuck Tringo]

I would also take a look at and consider the Dowelmax, considerably less than the Domino, With enough dowels, just as strong or stronger, very easy to use, and built in house by our neighbors to the north :)

[Russ Massery]

I would suggest looking into this.http://www.mortisepal.com/ Check out the video. I use 6mm Dominos with it. I sold my benchtop mortiser after I started using it. I bought the new 3" capacity one. I have the older 2" version for sale P.M. me if your interested.

[Jay Jolliffe]

If you wanted to make a mortise longer than 3" could you slide it down to make a 6" mortise ....

[James Adinaro]

I have both. Honestly, I haven't used the mortiser since I got the Domino - but I haven't sold it either...

I think the Domino can handle about 80% of what I expect I will ever do, and it's a bazillion times faster. But for some things, like aprons to legs on a heavy dining table, I will still go back to the mortiser.

(I'm not much of a router jig guy, but that's another option for things the Domino can't handle.)

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I have a bench top mortiser and don't like the ragged holes it makes. I really like using a router with jig and using loose tenons. You can make the tenons fit perfectly in the smooth router mortises by careful measurements and fabrication. The mortise pal looks very smart but I have a home made jig that works very well. Of course nothing is probably as fast as the Domino.

[Chip Lindley]

And how much does a bagfull of those Domino tenon-thingies cost? Way more than biscuits or home made loose tenons, i bet!

[Bob Genovesi]

I would suggest looking into this.http://www.mortisepal.com/ Check out the video. I use 6mm Dominos with it. I sold my benchtop mortiser after I started using it. I bought the new 3" capacity one. I have the older 2" version for sale P.M. me if your interested.

Russ,

That's a great little tool!! I like the principal and ease of use... I have 2 plunge routers already and the price for one of these plus a few goodies is less than half of the Festool Domino Joiner...

[Russ Massery]

Jay, The answer is yes. You can make the mortise as long as you need. Here's some samples of what I've been able to do with the jig outside of the suggestion of the manufacture. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=94523

[Gary Herrmann]

Go check Deals and Discounts. People are getting a floor model Jet mortiser for $345.

[Larry Fox]

Definitely give Jerry Work's article on the Domino a read and see if it will cover your needs. I have one and am very impressed by it so far. The Dominos are expensive for what they are but, for me, not as expensive as time.

[Jim Kountz]

I would suggest looking into this.http://www.mortisepal.com/ Check out the video. I use 6mm Dominos with it. I sold my benchtop mortiser after I started using it. I bought the new 3" capacity one. I have the older 2" version for sale P.M. me if your interested.

What a great little tool! I have always liked the loose tenon and mortise joint but never liked the setup or jig making. This thing eliminates that part altogether. Another thing I like is that with a Domino or biscuit cutter you sometimes have the tendency to slip a little bit or not have the fence planted firmly spoiling the registration to the work piece. Since this things clamps to the piece its pretty unlikely that it will slip thus the registration is always the same from piece to piece. Its something Im going to look into more for sure!

[Russell Tribby]

I bought the Domino this summer when I had a job that required about 60 m&t joints. From lay out to cutting it only took about an hour. It paid for itself on that job.
Just this last week I had to make some wood frames for glass shelves. The stock was 3/4" thick and 1 1/2" wide and the corners were mitered. Each of the joints went together perfectly. I don't think I could've done this with the dowelmax, mortisepal or a mortiser. If I could've I'm sure it wouldn't have been nearly as safe and it would've taken longer.
You'll have to decide for yourself what will best suit your needs. As for me now that I have this thing there's no way I'd give it up. Oh yeah, did I mention that when it's hooked up to a vac there is zero clean up involved.

[Andy Casiello]

I guess it really sounds like "to each his own" with regard to joinery. I'm going to pick up Russ's "Mortise Pal" and give that a whirl. I think I'll hold off on the dedicated mortiser until I've worked with the Mortise Pal for a while. The Dowelmax looks cool too. I guess they all work. If I have a project with a lot of joints to make, maybe I'll consider the Domino. I really like the idea that the dust collection is integral.

Thanks to all for your thoughtful responses.

[Doug Shepard]

For something like amp/speaker cabs I think the Kehoe jig that popped up recently on this thread would be ideal
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=30303

[Russ Massery]

Andy, I use a Porter Cable 8529 which has dust collection built in. Gets about 85% of the chips Enough so that I don't have stop to clear out the mortise before taking the clean up pass.

Doug, I have a Kehoe jig It work as advertise. Though I found it works a little better with the top bearing dovetail bit. I like it for small boxes jewelery and such.

[mreza Salav]

Or you can easily build one of this mortising jigs:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=94825&d=1218861787
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=94826&d=1218861787
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=94827&d=1218861800

Costs next to nothing and is *very accurate* for loose mortise. If the stock
is the same thickness you don't move the fences at all. If different thickness, you keep the fence which you want to get a flush joint unchanged.
I am very happy with it. Try it!

[Jesse Cloud]

You're absolutely right. On mortising, its truly each to his own. There are many many ways that work just fine.

I sold my powermatic mortiser after getting the Domino. When I need a larger mortise than the Domino will do, I pull out the router jig - but that's not very often.

As to the cost of the Domino tenons, they start at 4 cents a piece, more for larger ones. Hard to see how making them yourself would be a good use of time.

[John Keeton]

Mreza, that is really a simple setup! Do you have any stability problems when doing the end of a rail - say 3/4" x 1 1/2"? Seems it could have a tendency to rock. Also, do you ever feel a need for some sort of "stop." I am not questioning the jig as I am very tempted to try this. Just thinking thru some of the issues.

I haven't used the Mortise Pal either, but have watched the video. Stability during the cut and positive stops would seem to be critical issues.

[mreza Salav]

Mreza, that is really a simple setup! Do you have any stability problems when doing the end of a rail - say 3/4" x 1 1/2"? Seems it could have a tendency to rock. Also, do you ever feel a need for some sort of "stop." I am not questioning the jig as I am very tempted to try this. Just thinking thru some of the issues.
I haven't used the Mortise Pal either, but have watched the video. Stability during the cut and positive stops would seem to be critical issues.

John,
there is a simple fix for mortising at the end of a narrow piece:
I usually clamp it with another piece perpendicular to it, think of a T shape, then jig rides on the cap of the T and makes the hole in the vertical piece. I use the same piece used as the cap of T when making mortise in the matching piece.

Here are two pics of a project I used this jig in. You see the maple loose tenons between different pieces. The mortise in the 4" thick posts are also made using this jig (the corners are then made sqaure).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=87631&d=1209757154
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=87632&d=1209757166

As the issue for the stop points: I first do a plunge at the two end points and then empty in between. I figured it's Ok if the loose tenon isn't giving a perfect fit with the two ends of the mortise, it's end grain contact there anyway and glue won't add strength there.

[John Keeton]

I think I got the picture! I guess one could make a sandwiched "U' shapped "saddle" to do the rails. Use a piece of 3/4" in the middle, and a couple of pieces of 3/4" ply or mdf on the outside, slip it over the rail flush with the end, squeeze clamp it below the depth of the jig, and give a nice flat area that would be 2 1/4" wide. I think I am going to try this. What did you use as the base - looks like 1/2" Lexan?

I take it that you use rectangular stock for tenons. I guess one could leave the mortise rounded and make rounded tenon stock.

By the way, beautiful piece of work. I love walnut. Looks like a child's bed?

[mreza Salav]

I think I got the picture! I guess one could make a sandwiched "U' shapped "saddle" to do the rails. Use a piece of 3/4" in the middle, and a couple of pieces of 3/4" ply or mdf on the outside, slip it over the rail flush with the end, squeeze clamp it below the depth of the jig, and give a nice flat area that would be 2 1/4" wide. I think I am going to try this.

Actually, it's better to make a T (instead of U) so that it can fit different width rails. Just take a 3/4" ply (or mdf) and put it over another piece to get the T shape. Then the rail piece goes parallel against the base of the T with the top flush with the cap of the T, clamp it, route it, done!



What did you use as the base - looks like 1/2" Lexan?
I take it that you use rectangular stock for tenons. I guess one could leave the mortise rounded and make rounded tenon stock.
It's 3/8" thick; don't remember if it's polycarbonate or what.

I actually use round tenons. If you use standard 3/8" or 1/4" bit you can buy the tenons. I made the mortise at the posts square because used traditional tenon at that particular joint.



By the way, beautiful piece of work. I love walnut. Looks like a child's bed?It's a queen size bed I made for ourselves. Here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=83398

[John Keeton]

Ahhhh! The avatar! Don't know how I missed that post - that is one beautiful bed.

Thanks for all the info. Now, to find a piece of something to use as a base and I will be on my way to a mortising jig!!

[glenn bradley]

+1 on Mortise Pal. It was my eventual decision when researching this. I found BT mortisers to be too expensive by the time you actually got a working rig and chisels. I liked having the facegrain glue surface and didn't want to lose the versatility of variable length / depth mortise and tenons. I'm sure there are different solutions for different folks; this is just where I ended up.

I notice the new version with 3" capacity is the same price I paid for my original and comes with the same "extras". The original is now $140 but doesn't include some of the goodies (doweling plate, guide, etc.).