383 Stroker anyone?

[Paul Greathouse]

I've been to the motor-head forums and they are just as passionate about thier motors as we are about our powertools. I'm not interested in drag racing with my 4x4 Tahoe I just want more low end power/torque.

Has anyone swaped out a stock Chevy 350 for an aftermarket 383 Stroker motor in a chevy truck or SUV?
How much power did you gain?
Did fuel mileage suffer or increase?
Any problems associated with this type motor?
Will I be giving up anything in dependablility?

The guys at the performance forums tend to talk over my head when I ask these type questions. I can understand thier enthusiasm, I'm the same way when talking woodworking, but I'm just a simple guy looking for some simple power that will make driving a little more fun.

The vehicle I'm thinking about doing this in, is a 95' 4x4 Tahoe. Its my daily driver and it will pull utility trailers and boats fairly often. I've been looking at the motors that are rated around 340-380hp and 400+ftlbs torque so far. Am I looking at the right power range motor for what I want?

Can any of you performance experienced guys answer my questions at a level that a fellow woodworker can understand?

[Al Willits]

To many variables like cam, carbs or injected, head work, list goes on.

Longer stroke usually gives more torque and that I imagine is what your going for, lower rpm and higher torque works well for towing.

Find a good engine builder who deals a lot with RV's and towing rigs, you might find less money will get you where you want to be.

The Chevy engine has been around for so many years I'm betting a good builder can make a motor for exactly what you want, or modify the one you have.

Al

[Paul Greathouse]

Thanks for the advice Al,

Actually the motor thats in the Tahoe will go in my lumber hauler. I have another 95' model, its a 3/4 ton GMC pickup and its motor is about gone, (208,000 miles) the passenger side rear cylinder is smoking like crazy. The motor thats in the Tahoe only has 106,000 miles on it so I figure I'll kill two birds with one stone by putting it in the pickup when I get my fun motor for the Tahoe.

I've been eyeing a couple of crate motor rebuild shops in Arizona but I was going to check around locally before I get too serious. Their motors run about $2600 shipping included.

Just spent a ton of money on my new Oneida dust collector so I hope the motor in the lumber hauler lasts a while longer. That will probably be the trigger for the two swap-outs, when it finally goes out. I guess I'm a little different, I would rather have two older trucks than one new one. You don't have to be so careful with the old ones and they are alot easier to work on.

[David G Baker]

I have a beefed 350 in my 83 Chevy 3/4 ton pu that gets terrible mileage but will tow a heavy duty trailer carrying two full sized tractors without slowing down.

[Justin Leiwig]

You really don't want a stroker if you plan on driving it any real amount. They are neat, but the engine just wont hold up due to the overly square geometry of the stroker.

Additionally GM has a really weak drivetrain in that 4x4. You'll kill axles and your transfer case like nothing with a very high torque motor. Doubly fast if you have installed larger wheels and tires.

[David G Baker]

Amen on the 4x4. My front drive shaft is in my pole barn and was removed by the previous owner. I also have larger than stock tires.

[Paul Greathouse]

Thanks, David and Justin

I guess I'm going through mid-life crisis for something but the "Fun Factor" has been prevailing more often than not in my life lately. If I do go with the 383 it will only have to be dependable for 2-3 more years until I get my youngest son out of college. I'll probably be looking at new ones by then.

I am aware of the GM's weak drivetrain for that era of trucks & SUV's. We had to replace a rearend on my son's last truck, it was a 93' Z71 and the reverse gear the Tahoe's transmission is starting to slip. The guy that does transmission and rearend work for me claims he can build me a pretty tough transmission for $1800. I know from the above mentioned experience rearend rebuilds go for about $700 - $900.

I'm willing to spend a little to get what I want, all in all its a lot cheaper than buying a new one and paying a note for 5 years.

[Chris Damm]

The Chevy 383 has been around for a long time now and are very dependable. As for how much more power, like Al said there are too many variables. The big thing you get with the increased is more torque with everything else remaining the same. Your mileage won't change much if you drive the same. If you start hauling heavy loads it will go down because you are doing more work. This what I would use: http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/12499106/383ciShortBlockEngineAssembly.aspx .
Rework your heads and you're ready to go.

[Denny Rice]

Paul,

Do yourself a favor go to the phone book and find a local speed shop. You will find a lot of knowledge there and they will help you determine what you need for what your trying to do. Most speed shops are very friendly even if you don't spend a dime there. I have found that ordering parts online from a place like JEGS I can usually save 10-20%.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Go with what Denny said.
Or go out and test drive some of the "mid-life" crisis cars like the Dodges with the HEMI's in them.
I miss my RAM 1500 crew cab with it's HEMI engine. But I don't miss the mileage.
Nothing more fun than going from 30 MPH to 80 is a few seconds on the freeway onramp. I always put high lift, short duration cams in my engines for torque. ;)

[Pat Germain]

I used to be a hot-rodder in my younger days. I was a Ford guy, but since everyone else ran small block Chevys, I'm familiar with them. You probably don't need the stroker engine to get the power you want. A well-built, Chevrolet 350 with standard crank and rods can be quite the street terror.

You can add Major power simply by installing an Edelbrock Performer package; camshaft, intake and carb. If you really want to go crazy, you can opt for the Edelbrock aluminum heads. Another option would be a set of iron racing heads like Dart II.

If you need to order a new engine, I would recommend the crate motors from Jeg's or Summit. I've ordered a lot of hardware from Summit and they always treated me well.

Another piece of hardware I'd recommend is a Mallory Uni-Lite distributor. I ran one in my '69 Cougar for years and it was awesome.

The problem with most remanufactured motors is they're built to save money. The cylinders aren't typically bored. The machine shop will mic' the cylinders and only bore the ones with a problem. A Summit or Jegs crate motor will have all eight cylinders bored the same; .030" or more. I'm pretty sure they also include machined cranks, which is a must for good oil pressure and longevity.

I rebuilt my Ford 351W myself. It really wasn't that difficult. The key is to have all the cylinders bored and the crank machined. Many a hot-rodder has forgone these procedures to save dough and results were disasterous. These types of stories are what scare off a lot of folks.

[Jim Callaghan]

Paul
I think what you want is the way to go, I have been around hot rods and street rods for more years than I want to admit. I have a buddy that has a 383 stroker in a 41 chevy and at this point there is 160,000 miles on it in the last 10 years, and its never been touched. And that is with a lot of hard runs.

The key is to have a reputable shop do the work, and make sure that it is balanced. (a reputable shop would not build a stroker without balancing it anyway) Plus, you want to watch what crank you put in there, some of the large mail order shops buy cranks from China and they do not last. You get what you pay for in a motor.

You could come close with a built 350, oryou can do a mild big block, but If I was going to do another street rod, It WILL have a stroker, the power band is unreal and I know they will last if done corectly.
Jim