WS 3000 Issue and Recommendation

[Orlando Gonzalez]

I have added the wide blade attachment to my WS 3000. I followed the mounting instructions and followed their instructions but I can't seem to get a straight edge on my plane blades with it. I was trying it on 2 vintage Stanley blades for a #6 and # 7 planes and they both had uneven cambers to them. I had to take them to the granite block w/sandpaper to get them straight. I must say that the WS works well for blades < 2" and for flattening the backs of the blades. Has anyone with the WS wide blade attachment experienced this situation?

I have the Grizzly wet grinder on order (HF model is going back today and the Tormek is out of my $$$ range at this time) and was wondering if I should just sell the WS, sell it and get a belt sander to grind the primary bevels on wide blades, keep it and get a belt sander, or what? :confused: BTW I also have honing jigs, waterstones, and sandpaper (I kind of slipped down a slope somewhere :o).

Thanks
OG

[Johnny Kleso]

Just buy a WC 8" slow speed grinder $79 when on sale..
I just clecked sale ends tomorrow and its back to $99

Keep the WS for the doing the backs..

I have a Jet slow wet and was a waste of money as its just a slow bench grinder..

Make a tool rest for the WC or buy one and use that to regrind your bevels and then use your stones and sand paper..

I think the WS may not be the best for reshaping bevels but may work fine at honing..

[Doug Shepard]

My wide blade attachment jig hasn't been opened yet so I cant say if I'm having the same problem. Somebody (I forget who) posted that the Veritas MkII honing jig worked very well on top of the base portion of that wide blade attachment. I was planning on going that route just so I could also use the MKII skew angle and camber attachments on top of the WS3000. I just haven't pulled the WS3000 out since getting the wide blade jig due to other projects.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

Johnny - I have a regular 6" grinder with a bunch of wheels and the LV grinding jig and tool rest set up on it. But my skills leave much to be desired. I guess practice is the solution. Looks I'm going to have what Tom LN calls the ultimate sharpening set-up, grinder (wet & dry), sander (WS), sandpaper, and stones. I guess if one doesn't work the other better or I'm going to be SOL.:) What is interesting is that I wasn't trying to reshape the bevel since it was in real good shape, but only resharpening it. I'll try again and if doesn't work then it's off to the other mediums. Thanks for the response and I enjoy visiting your site for valuable info.

Doug - I flattened the base of the attachment to remove the slight indentation running down the middle of it. I used 180-220-320-400 grit sandpaper on a granite slab. When you start sharpening the blade you are going to get metal fillngs being flung everywhere, especially back onto the base of the attachment. The brass wheels get imbedded with the filings (dust like in nature) and that is what probably scratched my base. I have the LV MKII and I'll give it a go. Let me know how it goes for you, especially getting a straight edge.

Thanks
OG

[Casey Gooding]

Have you checked the fine adjustment?? There is a screw under the spinning wheel that adjusts the angle to the left and right. Takes some trial and error. Should do the trick.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

Casey - No I haven't but I will now. Thanks for the tip.
OG

[Mark C. Salomon]

First, I don't think that the adjustment under the wheel on the right side will help you--it is designed to square the chisel holder with the wheel. You adjust for squareness for the wide blade platform by raising or lowering the sides of the platform with the four adjusting screws on the top of the platform. Here's an easy test: Put your wheel with the finest grit facing up. Insert a plane blade that you know is square in the WS blade holder at the proper angle and then put this on the platform like you're going to sharpen it--but with the motor turned off. Looking for any obvious gap between the wheel and the blade you can quickly determine if the blade is grossly out of square. Using the adjustment screws adjust that gap until it is gone and it appears that the blade is meeting the wheel evenly across the width of the blade. Next, mark the bevel with a Sharpie and turn on the WS and hone the blade a little in the normal manner. Look at the bevel and see whether the ink is being removed evenly across the width. If not, raise or lower the platform using the adjustment screws until you can remove the ink evenly. BTW, I always test each plane blade that I am going to sharpen/resharpen first with a fine wheel and a Sharpie to make sure that the platform/blade is square to the wheel.