How should I mount Assembly table to wall?

[Ray Schafer]

I am going to hang the attached assembly table to the garage wall. I know this is not "rocket surgery" but thought I would solicit ideas on the best way.

I bought a "piano" hinge (continuous hinge) at the BORG. It is the heaviest one that they had (not industrial strength by any means).

Should I mount the piano hinge to the wall -- which is drywalled -- or should I get three or for heavy duty "regular" hinges such as gate hinges? It is pretty heavy -- a 3ft x 5ft torsion box made out of 1/2 inch mdf and maple trim.

What do you think?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I would run a cleat along the wall, and use 2 or 3 standard house door hinges to hang the torsion box.

This would allow you to use many screws into the studs, and shim behind the cleat in case your drywall isn't flat.

Regards, Rod.

[Ray Schafer]

That is exactly what I am going to do. Thanks.

[Ray Schafer]

I have the table mounted to the wall. That was not fun, because of the weight of the table. Now I need to figure out a way to hold it up. As I said before, it is heavy. I was going to use a sliding gate latch, but I don't think that will work. The table just fit on two studs, since I used the 3 foot side to mount to the wall. There is no stud right next to it, and I need to make sure that the device is very well anchored in the wall because it would be very unsafe if there was a possibility of it coming down. (Think Honda Pilot with big dent, or daughter with head trauma -- or worse.)

Please share any ideas.

Ray

[Dave Zeigler]

Here are a few crackpot ideas for your flyswatter.:eek: I included them in the hope of inspiring someone to an off the shelf solution.

A pneumatic cylinder mounted under the table. Crack a valve and the table descends slowly as air is forced out of the cylinder. A small, inexpensive 12V compressor could be used to raise it, although slowly. If you have a larger compressor or air tank, you could swat flies on the wall.:D

Gas filled cylinders like those used on car trunks (only larger and/or more of them). Mount under the table and to the wall. You would have to pull the table down and lock it somehow.

A torsion spring to counter gravity, see overhead garage door.

Use something like the above ideas in addition to a latch to keep the table in the upright and lowered position.

good luck!

Dave

[Ray Schafer]

Dave,

That is out of the box. I wonder how much each of those solutions would cost. I had decided that I was going to use a "hasp" gate lock. I think that is what it costs. It is not so heavy that I can't lift it pretty easily. I can lift it but my wife probably couldn't ... right in that range. Now you have me thinking about other ideas, though. Hmmm ... have to give this more thought.

In the mean time, I will use my gate latch. I am going to attach a piece of wood on each side with screws and construction adhesive, then I will attach the hasp with screws and adhesive. That should hold it. Then I have to think about some of your ideas. Maybe I could find an industrial strength hinge with a spring in it to work like the torsion spring that you mention.

[Dave Zeigler]

Dave,
Maybe I could find an industrial strength hinge with a spring in it to work like the torsion spring that you mention.

That may be possible, but the torque would be huge. I doubt wood could handle the forces involved. At the very least, the woodscrews would likely pull out.

A torsion bar, roughly shaped like the letter N, but with 90 degree angles at the bends, could be employed. Inspiration: An anti-sway bar on an automobile or the torsion springs in the trunk of my Ford Taurus. One side attached to the wall and fixed, the other side attached along the bottom of your table. The trick is to make it the right length and thickness such that it closely counters the force of gravity. The longer the spring, the less metal fatigue and more cycles of up/down before it breaks. Perhaps an automotive/trucking spring shop could help you with the math and could make your custom spring for you. You would have to provide the weight of the table so the torque could be calculated in addition to the available space for mounting a spring. That is if money is no object.:rolleyes: But, it doesn't hurt to ask.

I'd guess if your latch is childproof and you can handle the raising/lowering by hand, your job is done.;)

Good luck with your project,

Dave

[Chip Lindley]

Use at least double sheave pulley blocks with 1/8" aircraft cable to pull the table up on the wall, or lower into working position. This will cut the effort in half to handle the table weight. Bolt the sheave to wall studs securely on a scab board as you did the table hinges.

Use a steel eye-bolt (recessed?) in the end of the table, and one of those locking mountain climbers clips/key ring thingies on the rope! Use a good stainless, NOT aluminum one! The clip can be released and reeled up out of the way when table is in use. Fold-down legs on the open end can support the table while working.

When raised, the rope can be tied off securely (even with a loop for locking) to prevent accidental drop.

[Ray Schafer]

Here are pictures of the assembly table moutned to the wall. It is working out great. I used it today for the desk I am building.

[Dave Zeigler]

Here are pictures of the assembly table moutned to the wall. It is working out great. I used it today for the desk I am building.

Thanks for the pic's! That looks great.

Dave