Drawer Construction

[Dave Novak]

How should I attach drawer false fronts made from 1/2" thick figured cherry to the front of a 9/16" thick red oak drawer box? This was my plan:

1. Drill 4, maybe more, screw holes in the drawer box fronts
2. Clamp (somehow?) the drawer boxes one row at a time in the cabinet
3. Line up and clamp in place the drawer fronts where I want them,
4. Mark the hole locations through the drawer box on to the false fronts
5. Dissasemble and move to gluing station
6. Glue, screw, and clamp the fronts to the boxes.

Any better ideas? What about that evil thing I rarely account for (wood movement)?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Dave, just use the screws, don't glue the fronts on.

Double sided tape will hold the false fronts on long enough for you to put a clamp on, then drive the screws.

Regards, Rod.

[Dave Novak]

That should save me quite a bit of time! Thanks.

[Karl Brogger]

Hi Dave, just use the screws, don't glue the fronts on.

x's 2

You can pin the drawer front on from the drawer side too, then screw it. That's how I do it anyway.

[Lee Schierer]

I drill four screw holes from the inside of the drawer through the front of the drawer box and insert the wood screws I plan to use so their tips stick out about 1/16". Then I put some weight in the drawer so it settles where it will be in use, center the face piece in or on the opening and hold it in place with shims. Then I press the drawer box forward against the back of the front piece while pushing on the front piece. This leaves four indentations on the back of the drawer face. I drill pilot holes and then use those holes to attach the front to the drawer box with screws.

[Brad Shipton]

If you have a handle on the drawer, I have used them as the temporary support also. Just slightly oversize the holes.

Brad

[Dave Novak]

So, nothing to worry about regarding thin slices of different species of wood moving around? The biggest drawer front is 22" wide X 10.5" tall, which is an inch longer and wider than the box front (1/2" reveal all arond the box). I don't really understand wood movement much, but I assumed a good glueup might mitigate any future separation, warping, etc.

[Dave Novak]

If you have a handle on the drawer, I have used them as the temporary support also. Just slightly oversize the holes.

Brad

I thought of that too, especially when I was considering glueing them and needing something in the center to pull the two together well. But I was hoping to finish the cabinet before applying the hardware.

Nevermind, I read too fast and missed "temporary"

[Karl Brogger]

So, nothing to worry about regarding thin slices of different species of wood moving around? The biggest drawer front is 22" wide X 10.5" tall, which is an inch longer and wider than the box front (1/2" reveal all arond the box).
I wouldn't worry.



I don't really understand wood movement much, but I assumed a good glueup might mitigate any future separation, warping, etc.
The screws will hold it just fine. Bigger drawer fronts I'll throw a 5th screw in there at the top center, but that is just to make sure a gap doesn't form, or to close one that is already there.

[Dave Novak]

Thanks everyone! I'm off to go screw up my drawers. (oops, I guess that phrase only works when your gluing)

[Randy Tullis]

I just made a new pantry for our kitchen. I has 7 drawers in it. I found that if I place the drawer front on the drawer where I want it, then I take my brad gun and nail thru the drawer into the drawer front, it will stay in place until I can get the screws in. I did this on all 7 drawers and the spacing between them are equal all around.

Randy

[Paul Girouard]

I do a similar thing to what Lee does, bore 4 holes in the drawer box , just the right size to "hold" the screws fast.

Where I deffer is that I only start two of the four screw in opposite corners , I use 1/8" alinimium spacer , as that is the gap I shoot for.

Side the front into position then give it a whack with the side of my hand to either set the screws so they hold, optimum result , or at least mark the screws then drive both into the front.

Now do any adjoining fronts , then check out the adjustment, if I'm happy I then drive in the remaining screws. If I'm not I can loosen the screws and do a fist adjustment if it's slight, or over bore the two holes , reinsert the screws and adjust using that over sized hole , then drive the remaining screws.


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http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17014-2.jpg

[George Bregar]

So, nothing to worry about regarding thin slices of different species of wood moving around? The biggest drawer front is 22" wide X 10.5" tall, which is an inch longer and wider than the box front (1/2" reveal all arond the box). I don't really understand wood movement much, but I assumed a good glueup might mitigate any future separation, warping, etc. All good tips here, but there would be no problem glueing the faces to the box. The grain is the same orientation, and although there would be a slight variation of movement between two species, it would not be sufficient for the glue joint to fail.

[Bob Cooper]

i just finished my first kitchen set of cabinets. What i do is position the drawer where i want it and then drill holes for the pulls through the attached front and continue thru the drawer itself. Then i attache the drawer front and the drawer pulls and make sure all is straight. Then i open the drawer and really secure it with 4 screws from the inside.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks everyone! I'm off to go screw up my drawers. (oops, I guess that phrase only works when your gluing)

That's right; glue up, screw down ;-)

[Steve Griffin]

Drive me crazy to not be able to adjust my drawer fronts once installed...

A common cabinetmakers trick is to use washer head screws. Drill a couple 1/4" or slightly bigger holes in the drawer box and a couple 1/8" pilot holes in the false front. Put on the fronts and you can fine tune where the face ends up.

The drawer box holes and drawer face pilot holes obviously need to be measured for proper location. Remember to subtract your gaps when locating the pilot holes. (I use 1/16 for overlay and 3/64 for inset doors in my kitchens).

If you are doing a good number of drawers, make up pairs of spacer blocks in a variety of sizes for laying out these holes. (Each pair has a block for the cabinet and a corresponding block for a drawer face that is 1/16 smaller).

Good luck! -Steve