Workbench Top - Ply+OSB+MDF+Hardboard?

[Ken Frohnert]

I am getting ready to build a workbench I was thinking of planking the top but based on feedback I changed my mind. I have sheet of most of a sheet of basic 3/4" plywood that has been in the way for months, and a full sheet of left over 5/8" OSB that I have been moving around the shop for a year and really want to use up. I think I also have little left over 5/8" MDF. I was thinking of making a 24x72 workbench top out of these materials glued together then laying a replaceable 1/4" piece of hardboard on top. Then banding the edge with 1.5" SYP to match the rest of the bench. I thought that the plywood and MDF wood help hold lag bolts for vices and the OSB would add some weight if nothing else. I would also like to be able to use some bench dogs.

I believe all these are fairly stable so I don't think glueing them together would cause an issue due to contraction/swelling due to humidity changes. I should have enough 3/4 ply for 2 layers, 5/8 OSB for 2 layers and 1 layer of MDF. However, I cannot decide what would be the logical order to stack the materials in the sandwich to best hold a vise and enable me to use bench dogs?

[Dewey Torres]

My vote is to leave out the OSB all together. That stuff crumbles like crazy and if you drill dog holes through it over time they stand to become loose. It is also very cheap and if it is in your way, make some garage shelves with it or throw it out/ give it away to a neighbor for a possible favor down the line.

Search the threads here for workbench designs as they are very popular right now.

Again just my take. Others may see it differently.

Now,
If you absolutly had to do it with those materials, one option might be:

Plywood bottom- its the best materiel out of what you have to accept lag screws for your vise

(2) OSB in middle

MDF Sub Top

Hardboard top

OR
(2) OSB and MDF as the core and ply on sub top and bottom with hardboard top


Post a pic when you get r' done.:)

[Ken Frohnert]

Funny - I was just about to throw at sheet of OSB out on Saturday - it is always in the way. Then I thought put it in the top and it disappears.

[Paul Steiner]

I find that OSB is a one purpose material sheathing on a house/roof and that is about it. If you visit construction dumpsters, you will find there is no shortage of OSB. Usually if I throw a piece away, 2 pieces show up at the shop.

[Sue Wise]

My workbench top as three layers particle board with 1/4 hard board. I bolted on my vice instead of using lag screws. I also have a row of round dog holes for holding things. I made this one about 10 years ago. If I were to do the same today, I would use MDF. I used a plan out of Sam Allen's, Making Workbenches book.

Mine is very heavy and you can beat on that thing all day and it not going move an inch. Now that I am back at woodworking, I plan to make a case and drawers for it.

-Sue

[glenn bradley]

I also would skip the OSB. It just wasn't designed for that type of function and I would expect it to fail first out of the materials mentioned. I did use some as wall sheeting, maybe that's an idea(?).

My bench is four laminated layers of 3/4" MDF and it has been very stable. The one mistake I made was trying to save a little money by using KD fir from the BORG for a few parts. Even after continuing to dry in my shop after a couple months before machining, they continue to shrink and will soon need replacing.

The amount in money of wasted "cheaper" product and the re-do would have bought top quality material in the first place. It just doesn't pay to go cheap, toss the OSB.

[Ken Frohnert]

I was just being cheap. It not often I see so much agreement on an issue - I will toss that OSB this weekend.

Looks like I will buy another sheet of 3/4 MDF and use two layers of MDF and two layers of plywood. Put the 1/4 tempered hardboard on top and band it with the SYP.

Thanks for the good advice.

[Jim Becker]

Ken, going with the MDF for this is a good decision. It adds a lot of mass and weight to the bench and is generally consistent in thickness, too.

[John Schumer]

In my infinite wisdom......
I used:
three layers 3/4" MDF
one layer 3/4" ply
top layer is 1/2" UHMW
All staggered, no seams meet.
All sits on top of a 6 x 6 frame!
Seemed like a great idea at the time.
Solid as Concrete!
The UHMW is slippery, nothing sticks to it, very durable, downfall is
the fact, that everything, slides a little too easily.

John

[Ray Schafer]

I just finished my top. I am building the 24 Hour Workbench designed by Chris Schwarz. You can find it on the internet. It is a great workbench which uses 2 sheets of 5x5 Baltic birch. I would look over that plan, it sounds like what you are building. You could substitue your plywood for the baltic birch. I used the BB only because it was the perfect size for his plan. I hope to build the base within the next month or so -- is is on saw horses for now.

[John Thompson]

MDF is pretty flat off the rack.. but for the cost of two sheets to get a 3-4 layer laminate... you could use SYP and go with a solid 3" top as I have on the last 5 I have built. Just a thought...

Sarge..

[Bob Genovesi]

I believe all these are fairly stable so I don't think glueing them together would cause an issue due to contraction/swelling due to humidity changes. I should have enough 3/4 ply for 2 layers, 5/8 OSB for 2 layers and 1 layer of MDF. However, I cannot decide what would be the logical order to stack the materials in the sandwich to best hold a vise and enable me to use bench dogs?

Ken,

This is a workbench so don't get hung up on gluing or humidity.

Some of the commercial benches I've seen are overkill in my opinion. Theres no way in hell anyone needs a 4 to 6 inch thick top...:rolleyes:

The bench must be constructed properly with a strong frame that won't flex under weight. Lay down the 3/4 plywood first followed by the MDF then a replaceable hard board line Masonite. Use screws to hold everything together, this way id you need to replace anything it'll come apart easily.

I used maple and glued the pieces together then machined it flat using a jig I made.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Image018-650.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Image017-650.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Image008-650.jpg

[Ken Frohnert]

Ray: I looked very seriously at that workbench just the other day. In fact I still have the website saved as a favorite. Was very tempted by this bench. I would like to see what your finished bench comes out like post some pix please.

Bob: That top looks great. I thought you had edged glue those together (I had thought about that with my SYP) but then I looked closer and it looks like they are face glued together. That jig to flatten the top is clever - what bit do you have in that router?

I love those butcher block tops just not sure I have the time to invest in that - I have a lot of other projects to do.

Here is a link to the bench I was using as a guide - I think I will probably make a few construction changes but I should end up with something reasonably like this with a row of drawers for smaller stuff and a shelf under for my power tool cases:

Bill's Bench http://home.comcast.net/~ilikerust/MyBench.htm


I was thinking of putting the ply down first so I could screw into it for the vise. However, then I thought I should alternate them like this bottom to top: ply - MFD -ply -MFD and tempered hardboard so the bench dogs would be into the plywood to and I could used longer lags on the vice to hit the 2nd layer of plywood. Not sure how bench dogs will work best with sheet type of materials?

[Tony Bilello]

Inexpensive Workbench, well, relatively inexpensive.

I have built several of these in the past. It is heavy, solid, easy to make and vibration free. I wouldn't want to sit a car on top of it, but it would easily hold it up. I haven't had the time or need to put bench dogs on this one yet, but I will when I need them. I am mainly a power tool kinda guy and kinda light on hand tools, but don't let this bench fool you. It has a tool well which is handier than you would think and a tool holder in the rear and a Harbor Freight vise and a 4 socket outlet box.
This bench is about 5 foot long and about 2 feet deep (front to back).
When I get to my shop. I will take measurements and post them on here.
Materials list:
1 4' X 8' X 3/4" Plywood
1 1 X 4 X 10' Pine
2 2 X 4 X 10' Pine
1 2 X 6 X 10' Pine
1 4 X 4 X 12 'Pine
1 4 Socket outlet box
1 Heavy Vise.



And lots of nuts and bolts...enough to draw lightning


Anyway, I was wondering if I drew up detailed plans and instructions would these plans would be marketable for say 2 bucks via the web? What do you think?
Tony B


(This is something I posted on another woodworking forum about whether anyone really buys drawings and instructions)

[Bob Genovesi]

Ray:
Bob: That top looks great. I thought you had edged glue those together (I had thought about that with my SYP) but then I looked closer and it looks like they are face glued together. That jig to flatten the top is clever - what bit do you have in that router?

I love those butcher block tops just not sure I have the time to invest in that - I have a lot of other projects to do.


I was thinking of putting the ply down first so I could screw into it for the vise. However, then I thought I should alternate them like this bottom to top: ply - MFD -ply -MFD and tempered hardboard so the bench dogs would be into the plywood to and I could used longer lags on the vice to hit the 2nd layer of plywood. Not sure how bench dogs will work best with sheet type of materials?

Ken,

You're right, I glued them face to face and started off with 2" thick maple. At the cost of sheet materials you might find that the cost could be close but to make one of these is a lot more work.

I used a Bosch router with a 3/4" diameter flat cutting bit and 1/2" diameter shank.

I don't think you notice a difference in how bench dogs perform but I'd opt for the round ones and cut a hole close to the OD of the dog.

[John Bush]

Hi Ken, and Happy Thanksgiving to all!!
I used an old solid core door for my bench top. I made a maple frame joined with large finger joints with one side 5" wide for an end vise and dog holes. I mounted a 9" vice on the same side at the opposite end. I glued 1/4" hardboard on the door, cut to size and attached as an insert. I didn't want the screws exposed on the working surface and I can remove and replace the top when needed. That was ~ 16 years ago and, though nicked and stained, it is still going strong. I made the base out of Dougy fir beam cut offs "donated" by a construction crew. I'll bet my drumstick that if you call around you can find a free throwaway or damaged door for less than buying new sheet goods. I do plan on building a new, larger one, since the new shop is 3 times bigger than the old, and I would like to have neanderthal storage drawers for planes, chisel, etc., but this one works very well. Good luck, JCB.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I just finished my top. I am building the 24 Hour Workbench designed by Chris Schwarz. You can find it on the internet. It is a great workbench which uses 2 sheets of 5x5 Baltic birch. I would look over that plan, it sounds like what you are building. You could substitue your plywood for the baltic birch. I used the BB only because it was the perfect size for his plan. I hope to build the base within the next month or so -- is is on saw horses for now.


I built Schwarts design too, and the 4 layers of 3/4" plywood has held up great. It holds dog holes well, an is solid as a rock. The vise I lagged in and it is solid.

Doc