Removing wax prior to refinishing...

[Charlie Plesums]

I am modifying a previous project (sewing cabinet to hold the new larger sewing machine). The original project was from the days when I used NC lacquer and wax. Now I need to blend the finish, and use water base finish. And water base doesn't like wax.

I have tried to remove the wax with mineral spirits, but I don't know if I got it all. Is there a way to confirm that all the wax is gone (other than waiting to see if the new finish peels off)?

[Howard Acheson]

Go through the mineral spirit process twice. Be sure to wipe shortly after applying the mineral spirits and keep a fresh face on the towel. Use lots of towels.

[Chip Lindley]

Try spritzing a lil water on the surface to see if it beads up or flows out evenly. Beading will indicate wax is still present. There are more volitile solvents than mineral spirits that might dissolve more of the wax, but also might harm your finish. Why not use solvent based lacquer again? I am sure it is still available. Deft clear wood finish in a spray can?

[Prashun Patel]

You might try spot heating with a hair dryer before using the MS. That'll make the wax a little more mobile.

[Charlie Plesums]

Status report...

I had gone through the mineral spirit process a couple times yesterday, but was not confident (years ago I used lots of wax to make up for lack of finishing skill). So I did the mineral spirits (and some naptha) a couple more times today, with lots of rags, as suggested by Howard.

Then I did the test suggested by Chip - spritzed some water and it beaded like crazy. Back to the mineral spirits, more spritz, more beads. Finally I realized that mineral spirits was a petroleum product, so I used a tiny amount of soap and water to remove the mineral spirits, rinsed, and spritz... no beads.

I am giving the pieces a few minutes to dry while I write this, then going back to the shop to sand (level) the poor spraying job of many years ago.

To answer Chip's question about why I don't just use NC Lacquer... I still have a couple gallons of various sheens, but I have found that I get a far better finish, that is more durable, with less effort, with Target USL acrylic lacquer. And the USL presumably at least partially burns into NC lacquer... making it the miracle drug. But if I lose confidence when I spray tomorrow, it will be back to the NC lacquer. Or maybe a coat of shellac to isolate the old lacquer and wax from the new finish.

Shawn, I liked your hair dryer idea, but found happiness before I raided our bathroom for my wife's hair dryer.

Thanks to all for your help.

[Howard Acheson]

>> (years ago I used lots of wax to make up for lack of finishing skill)

Glad you got it cleaned up. Keep in mind for the future that paste wax does not build with multiple applications. The solvents in the new wax cut through and dissolve the prior wax coating. So, no matter how many coats of wax you apply, you basically end up with the same film thickness of wax. What can happen with multiple coats of wax is that unless the wax is thoroughly buffed, you can end up with a somewhat gummy mess that will not buff out well and will show finger marks.

[Vic Damone]

3M Adhesive Remover. It's an automotive paint product used to remove silicon from surfaces prior to sanding. I've noticed Orchard Supply carries it. This is simply some great stuff to have handy. I suggest using it outdoors and wear gloves. It's safe for most finishes.