TS75 Question

[Matt Wolboldt]

So this may be a strange question. I have a TS75 and MFT 800 setup. I did the 5 cut technique to make sure the guide rail is square to the fence (.002-.003" measured on the 5th cutoff, found the difference between the ends and divided by 4). The issue is when I go to make a cut, resulting surface is undulating, i.e. it isn't square and straight across, I can still see light under my square. How do I fix this? Thanks for all the help.

[Bill Fleming]

I have not had this type of problem at all - in fact have always been amazed at quality of cut. You might try the Festool users group.

Cheers - Bill

[Dave Falkenstein]

With not much information to base this on, I think the work piece might be moving as you cut it. Could that be the case? Have you tried clamping the work piece to see if the problem disappears?

[Matt Wolboldt]

I'm holding it against the fence of the MFT while I'm doing the cut. It just occurred to me that I may be shifting my pushing force on the saw with my one hand, giving the wavy cut. What do you think? Thanks for the replies.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I'm holding it against the fence of the MFT while I'm doing the cut. It just occurred to me that I may be shifting my pushing force on the saw with my one hand, giving the wavy cut. What do you think? Thanks for the replies.

I think it depends on the size of the work piece being cut. Smaller work pieces have more opportunity to move. Larger work pieces have more surface in contact with the sticky rubber strips on the bottom of the guide rail. Try clamping the work piece, and if the problem goes away, you have the answer.

Another possible factor is having the guide rail properly adjusted so the rail is in contact with the work piece along the entire width of the work piece. Adjust the hinged guide rail end first, using the same thickness material under the rail. Place one or more pieces under the entire length of the rail when adjusting the height. After the hinged end is set, then set the height on the guide rail at the front of the MFT. Push down on the rail while lifting up and clampling the stop in place. Obviously, the height of the rail off the MFT should be the same all along the rail. With the rail adjusted in this manner, you will get the maximum holding strength from the sticky rubber strips on the bottom of the rail.

[Dan Clermont in Burnaby]

David has one possible answer. The other thing to watch out for is to make sure your guide rail is fully seated on the support closes to your hip. If the support is too low the rail can move left to right causing an uneven cut

Dan Clermont
Canadian Festool Dealer

[William OConnell]

I'm holding it against the fence of the MFT while I'm doing the cut. It just occurred to me that I may be shifting my pushing force on the saw with my one hand, giving the wavy cut. What do you think? Thanks for the replies.

I think it may be the guide screw needs to be tightened a scotche

[Rob Blaustein]

Even when the rail is properly seated on the support, there can be some side to side play since the tab that fits into the rail is a bit narrower than the slot in the rail that it fits into. At least it is on mine. You have to make sure that the rail is always pushed slightly to one side (ie you may need to exert a bit of sideways force) as you make the cut. I always find this part the hardest to explain well. If you shift the forces on the rail during the cut, you could be sliding the rail slightly left/right and creating a wavy cut.

When my MFT was shipped I noticed there was a bit of tension in the way the rail lined up with the support--I had to exert a bit of tension to get it to fit properly. I think that's by design--it helps prevent this side to side motion.

[Matt Wolboldt]

I've monkeyed with it today, and I've successfully gotten rid of the waviness *thankfully* I think it was due to the some side to side play in the guiderail. So I made sure there was some tension on it. Now the problem is I can't quite get repeatable square cuts. I checked it with a digital protractor, and it would vary from 90 deg (yay) to as bad as 90+/-0.4 deg. Any tips on technique?

[Rob Blaustein]

Matt,
Check out this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=93994). In post #14 I describe my approach. Also, there are many threads about making square cuts on the Festool Owners Group site.
--Rob

[Dan Clermont in Burnaby]

When my MFT was shipped I noticed there was a bit of tension in the way the rail lined up with the support--I had to exert a bit of tension to get it to fit properly. I think that's by design--it helps prevent this side to side motion.

You don't want too much tension but it is good to have some. When making a cut you need to make sure the pressure you put on the saw is downward and not side to side.

You can adust the tension by loosening the two screws for the guide rail and retightening them for slight tension.

Dan Clermont
Canadian Festool Dealer

[Rob Blaustein]

I agree Dan.

Something else occurred to me Matt. How tightly have you adjusted those "guide jaws" on the side of the saw? I can imagine that if those are loose it might lead to wavy cuts. I really like using the spray on lubricant by Empire that John Lucas has written about on woodshopdemos.com. After spraying some on the rail and wiping it down, the saw really glides nicely and this lets you tighten the jaws a bit tighter on the rail than without lubricant.