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Craig D Peltier
11-21-2008, 11:32 PM
I have a question the angle I should get. Low or Standard. Its just general use, nothing specific. I have heard over the years to get low, but fine woodworking tool guide says that if planing in line with grain the low angle is apt to more tearout? Is it really an ongoing issue the yearout. Im usually planing edges of plywood to scribe to a wall or the general smoothing of a joint.

Thanks

Mike Henderson
11-22-2008, 12:24 AM
Get a low angle. You can always increase the effective angle by adjusting the bevel angle on the blade (because it's a bevel up plane). But if you go with a standard angle, you can't reduce the effective angle.

You could also get a replacement blade and have two effective angles - a low angle for end grain and a higher angle for face grain - just swap the blades.

Mike

Derek Stevens
11-22-2008, 1:16 AM
I have a large assortment of planes, but after all the years I will, without fail reach for my low angle Millers Falls. To reduce tear out, simple enough, keep it sharp.

Craig D Peltier
11-22-2008, 3:07 AM
Thanks for the sound advice.:)

Danny Burns
11-22-2008, 8:32 AM
I have a question the angle I should get. Low or Standard. Its just general use, nothing specific. I have heard over the years to get low, but fine woodworking tool guide says that if planing in line with grain the low angle is apt to more tearout? Is it really an ongoing issue the yearout. Im usually planing edges of plywood to scribe to a wall or the general smoothing of a joint.

Thanks

I have the Low Angle LV block plane because my hands are small, and so it fits in them better. The High Angle block plane is really bulky for my hands, and so if I want to do high angle cutting, I just have an extra blade that is sharpened at a higher degree bevel that will make my plane perform like the High Angle block plane does.

I am sure large handed people may disagree.:rolleyes:

Rob Lee
11-22-2008, 10:50 AM
Hi Craig -

One additional advantage our LA block has over the standard angle one - is you can attache an optional rear tote... making it a bevel-up #3...

It's very versatile ...

Cheers -

Rob

Glenn Clabo
11-22-2008, 1:12 PM
Thanks for reminding me Rob...my wish list just grew.
Maybe a link on the plane page would make more people aware of that option?

Tom Henderson2
11-22-2008, 5:37 PM
One comment...

Plywood is VERY hard on blades.

So you may find it wise to either have a separate blade for ply, or better, a separate plane.

A cheap Stanley would probably do an adequate job on plywood. Then keep the LV for solid wood.

-TH

Derek Cohen
11-22-2008, 9:12 PM
Craig

If you are going to use the block plane to trim plywood, then the bed angle is not the priority - I'd suggest that the blade is more of an issue. Plywood is multi-directional, and it is difficult to tell what the outside layer is doing. A slightly higher angle is probably better. With regards the plane itself, I would use something that you are willing to abuse for it as you are going to scratch the sole (I use a Stanley #18). But it is the blade that needs to be tough to hold an edge. If you are going to use this plane a lot, then use A2 steel at the least, or be prepared to sharpen frequently. I think that you can get an Academy HSS blade through Terry at HNT Gordon.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Craig D Peltier
11-23-2008, 12:27 AM
Craig

If you are going to use the block plane to trim plywood, then the bed angle is not the priority - I'd suggest that the blade is more of an issue. Plywood is multi-directional, and it is difficult to tell what the outside layer is doing. A slightly higher angle is probably better. With regards the plane itself, I would use something that you are willing to abuse for it as you are going to scratch the sole (I use a Stanley #18). But it is the blade that needs to be tough to hold an edge. If you are going to use this plane a lot, then use A2 steel at the least, or be prepared to sharpen frequently. I think that you can get an Academy HSS blade through Terry at HNT Gordon.

Regards from Perth


Thanks

Derek

Thanks I have a stanley looking one that works great. I will continue to abuse this one on jobsites and keep this one in the shop. Every year my dad buys me one gift from him and not from both.This is what I asked for this year.I figure it will be around for a very long time.
The 2009 tool guide recommends the LV verse the Ln due to ease of adjusting only.

Mike Henderson
11-23-2008, 12:56 AM
Thanks I have a stanley looking one that works great. I will continue to abuse this one on jobsites and keep this one in the shop. Every year my dad buys me one gift from him and not from both.This is what I asked for this year.I figure it will be around for a very long time.
The 2009 tool guide recommends the LV verse the Ln due to ease of adjusting only.
To me, the difference between the LN and the LV is size - the LV is somewhat larger. Which one you like depends on how each fits in your hand. Both work great.

Mike

Derek Cohen
11-23-2008, 2:33 AM
Mike

LV LA verses LN 60 1/2. The narrower width is the reason I plumped for the LN, notwithstanding that the LV is the better designed plane.

However, the question raised is not about which is more comfortable - in fact, the idea blocl plane for finish carpentry, which is what Criag appears to be doing, is either the LN #103 or the LV Apron. I have the #103 (bought long before the Apron came out), and its small size and heft is just fantastic for trimming.

The question is really about which plane would you use to trim plywood!

Regards from Perth

Derek