Miter Slot Runner

[Don L Johnson]

I need to make a shop jig for my table saw that uses a rather long runner. I don't want to purchase a metal one, so the question is, what is one of the more stable woods to use? I've used oak in the past, but thought I would pass the question on to the experts. Thanks,

[Lee Schierer]

I would recommend maple (hard or soft) over oak. You can also purchase high density polyethylene or UHMW strips from various sources and they work exceptionally well.

[glenn bradley]

I've used UHMW and straight grained red oak. Both have been in service for about 2 years without issue but, the humidity doesn't swing very far around here.

[Dewey Torres]

Any tight grained hardwood will do.

Not really a need to over think the choice. I have used maple, white oak, red oak, poplar (<- not the best), jatoba, bubinga, paduk, walnut and a few others that may have escaped my memory.

Soft-woods are out of the question.

[Jim Crockett]

I need to make a shop jig for my table saw that uses a rather long runner. I don't want to purchase a metal one, so the question is, what is one of the more stable woods to use? I've used oak in the past, but thought I would pass the question on to the experts. Thanks,

I've used maple and red oak and think the maple seems to works better - slides easier and doesn't seem to change width as much with changes in humidity.

That said, what would anyone think of using hickory? It certainly is HARD enough! I also wonder about purpleheart as it is used for wooden bearings, etc. in South/Central America. Somehow, though, purple runners on a ts sled just seem a bit strange! I don't know what the specific value of humidity expansion/contraction are for these woods - might be a good idea to check, I guess.

JimC

[Dewey Torres]

Jim,
Hickory and Purple heart will both work fine.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi. if you saw it so that it is quartersawn, humidity will have less of an influence on its width than if you use flatsawn stock.

I use QSWO since I always seem to have that hanging around......Rod.

[Jeff Bratt]

Hi. if you saw it so that it is quartersawn, humidity will have less of an influence on its width than if you use flatsawn stock.

I use QSWO since I always seem to have that hanging around......Rod.

Since miter slots are 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep, usually runners are sawed off the edge of a board. Done this way, flatsawn stock will produce a quartersawn runner, and vice-versa.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

I don't mean to steal the thread, but I was wondering of what the best (safest) way to cut these runners would be, is the tool of choice always the table saw?

Thanks,

[Tom Veatch]

... is the tool of choice always the table saw?

Not necessarily "always", but that's what I'd use for this. Well, actually, I'd probably use UHMW, but if making them from wood, I'd thickness plain sawn stock to 3/4" then rip 3/8" strips off the edge with a table saw.

(I almost always respond "no" to questions that say "always". There's usually several ways to accomplish any given mission.:))

[Jeff Bratt]

I've used maple and red oak and think the maple seems to works better - slides easier and doesn't seem to change width as much with changes in humidity.

That said, what would anyone think of using hickory? It certainly is HARD enough! I also wonder about purpleheart as it is used for wooden bearings, etc. in South/Central America. Somehow, though, purple runners on a ts sled just seem a bit strange! I don't know what the specific value of humidity expansion/contraction are for these woods - might be a good idea to check, I guess.

JimC

This reference (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/ch03.pdf) has shrinkage coefficients for lots of different woods. Hickory has a relatively high percentage dimensional change vs. moisture content. Red oak, ash, cherry, and chestnut look to be good domestic choices based on this characteristic. Many tropical hardwoods also have low shrinkage coefficients.

[Phil Thien]

Great link Jeff. That one is getting bookmarked.

[Peter Quinn]

Best? Liginum vitea. Very stable, very hard. Very expensive. They make wooden planes from it, that must say something. I use maple personally, I have used QSWO, but its open grain gets a bit grabby over time. I have also used santos mahogany and walnut to good effect.

[Stephen Edwards]

I used ash on my first crosscut sled. Works like a charm and makes perfect 90s on a 20" panel. I occasionally spray the underside of the sled and the runner with a product called dri-film.

[Jeff Bratt]

Just for reference, here's the on-line table of contents (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.htm) page for the FPL "Wood Handbook". Everything you ever wanted to know about wood. You can also download the whole PDF file (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.pdf).

[Jim Kountz]

I always rip close to the finished width for my miter slot then use my drum sander to sneak up on the fit. Once I get the width right I rip it just a hair under 3/8".