Saw Blade Question

[Justin Leiwig]

Ok..so I sold my crapsman plastic kiddie tablesaw and picked up a nice hunk of older cast iron delta table saw. I went yesterday and picked up some boeshield and stuff to get the rust off the top. I've torn the saw apart in preparation for cleaning and restoration. I want to install a decent blade, but I'd like one that I could pick up at lowe's/HD/Menards that won't break the bank. I think I could get away with a $40 or so blade, but definitely not the $90 that the WWII is going for.

Based on those limitations, what are your recommendations? :D

[Anthony Whitesell]

What kinds of cuts will you be doing? What thinkness boards will you be working with?

On my wall I have a 24t, 40t, and 60t blades. One for thick rip cuts, one for thin tip/thick crosscut, and one for thin crosscut/finish cuts. The more you will use a blade the better the blade will need to be, otherwise you'll spend twice as much money replacing blades. My 24t is only used occassionally and is Dewalt from the borg. The 40t is also a Dewalt. The 60t is an Oldham, it is the most used. I have two of them and they are both close to replacement. They cost $25 each and lasted a year or so each.

I haven't been able to justify the higher priced blades yet, but I'm getting there.

[Charles McCracken]

If you want one blade for all uses you should opt for 40T General Purpose or 50T Combination. At the stores you mentioned you may find several Freud blades that match and should be in the price range you stated: Diablo D1040 (GP) and D1050 (Combo) as well as Avanti TK306 (GP) and TK906 (Combo).

[Bill White]

Freud. I have never been disappointed.
The only thin kerf I use is for ripping.
Bill

[Prashun Patel]

I'm partial to the Freud Avanti Combo (50t) blades from Lws. They're cheapest from Amazon, though $34 free ship / no tax. Smooth xcuts and rips in most materials shy of 2". If yr gonna be doing thicker stuff, I'd look into dedicated ripping blades.

[Brent Ring]

I have heard good things about the Oshlun Combo blades, and have ordered one. Holbren sells them, but I found mine on Amazon. I will let you know how it turns out. They are about $26.00 before shipping

[Lee Schierer]

I agree, you'll not be disapppointed with Freud blades. They cut exceptionally well and are priced for a hobbyist.

[Justin Leiwig]

Thanks for the opinions folks. I'm going to look for a "combo" blade first because I don't do enough "fine" woodworking to consider using dedicated blades for each operation.

[Chip Lindley]

All blades aside (50T combo is my fav) You will be very pleased with your Delta, even if it has its little idiosyncracies. Light years ahead of Crapsman. I too, suffered too many years with a "steel n cast iron" Sears saw of the 70s. It took 1000 cranks to elevate or tilt, and the fence was a total POS. I referbished an old Delta/Rockwell contractor saw and loved it for many years. The guy who bought it from me got the bargain of the century! Tune up your Delta well and you will enjoy it MUCHO!

[scott spencer]

Hi Justin - In the $40 range, it's tough to beat the Freud LU86R010 (http://www99.epinions.com/review/Freud_LU86R010_10_40_Tooth_Thin_Kerf_General_Purpo se_Blade_42542453/content_227985493636) from their Industrial series. It's a 40T general purpose thin kerf blade that'll hold it's own against just about any and doesn't give up a lot to even the $100 premium blades. You're more likely to find it at Rockler, Woodcraft, Price Cutter, or Amazon than Lowe's, HD, or Menards.

A very good full kerf option is the Oshlun line (http://www.holbren.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=12&catid=673). Surprisingly well made for the price, plus Holbren offers 10% to SMC members with the "SMC10" code. If you happen to browse his website, he also offers the same discount on the Tenryu blades (http://www.holbren.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=5&catid=54), and there are two near your price range that are also very good blades and excellent values. The RS25550 50T full kerf combo, and the RS25540 40T mid kerf general purpose blade.

[Eric Gustafson]

I needed to do a lot of ripping and needed a new blade. At HD, they had a two pack. A 24 tooth "framing" blade and a 60 tooth "fine finish" combo blade. The pair was ridiculously cheap, around $26 bucks, if I remember right.

I only needed the 24 tooth for ripping, but thought the combo would come handy for general purpose use. I have been very pleased. They both make very clean cuts. If I was cutting something really critical I could use my WW II, but I find these blades a good deal. Somebody on the internet said, (it must be true, right!;)) that Freud makes Ryobi blades. I don't know if that is true, but they do cut very well.

[scott spencer]

... Somebody on the internet said, (it must be true, right!;)) that Freud makes Ryobi blades. I don't know if that is true, but they do cut very well.

I believe that Freud used to make the stock blade that came with the Ryobi BT-3000 and earlier BT-3100, but that blade was replaced with a cheaper Chinese blade in later versions. It was a unique 36 tooth FTG TK blade made in Italy IIRC, but I doubt very much the Freud has anything to do with the Ryobi blades made in China now sold at HD.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I agree with the Freud blades. Take your pick, good quality blades. There is a difference between $100 blades and $40 blades though, no matter the make. The cheaper Freuds will do you well, but when you can, try a $100 blade. Freud makes a nice one of those too I think, as does Forrest, and several others.

[Peter Quinn]

Not to be a stick in the mud, but I recommend you save your money. You got a great saw, do you want to learn its qualities with a marginal blade? I like ridge carbide or Forrest for combo blades, though it seems every major manufacturer is now making very good combo blades these days, and I have not tried them all.

If you work with plywood for other than rough carpentry, a 60th to 80t blade and a good ZCI is not the high falutin territory of fine wood workers, it is the right tool for the job. And if you rip hardwood over 5/4 thickness, a dedicated rip blade with anti kick back geometry will make things go easier and may just save your teeth. The ones in your mouth.

Ever buy a really nice truck or car, then put those cheepo 2 ply tires from the discount tire outlet on it and wonder why it doesn't handle like you thought it should? I did once. Didn't make the same mistake on my TS, but I have friends that have. The saw just makes things spin in a circle, its the blade that does the cutting, and you more or less get what you pay for when buying tooling for machines.

[Jon Grider]

I'm in agreement with Peter here. You have a nice saw, you'll be wise to put a good combo blade on it, as you'll have less tearout, smoother cuts and longer between sharpenings. I like the Tenryu Gold combo. I have other blades from Sears, Freud, Olsen, and the Tenryu is miles ahead of them. I never have tried Forrest so I can't comment on them, I know other woodworkers like them,but out of the blades I do have, the only blade that came close to the Tenryu is the Systematic combo that came with my 66.
A cheap blade can make the best saw cut poorly.

It's like putting a Sears lens on a Leica M6 camera.