Steel Rivet Removal Tool

[Peter Elliott]

Looking for some help with a wood project I make.

A part of the project I make is made of light guage steel, painted etc.

I need to remove 4 steel rivets from this with out destroying the paint to a certain degree.

Currently I grind the button head side (which is smooth) till gone, it's ok to damage this side of the part, not needed.

My issue when grinding is that it heats up the rivet and bubbles the paint on the good side that I need. Trying to avoid this.

I've tried a drill bit, the sucker just spins.

Is there a tool for these? to remove steel rivets?

The button head is about 1/4" round, maybe a tad bigger. So we are not talking some large.



Picture of the topside, button head. This side is ok to do whatever
http://bagpipecradle.com/i1.jpg



This is the good side and the 2 brackets I need. The paint bubbles on the joining surface sides from the heat build up.

http://bagpipecradle.com/i2.jpg


Anyone know of a tool? I do a bunch of these, so it's not a here and there project.

Thanks
Peter

[John Ricci]

You could cut a slot with a Dremel in the domed side big enough to hold it with a screwdriver then drill them out from the back:confused:

J.R.

[Tom Hargrove]

+1 on the Dremel idea. You could also use the thin cut off wheels with a Dremel to cut two "flats" on the edge of domed side of the rivet. Grab the flats with pliers and then drill from the dimpled side. It should go pretty quick with a sharp drill bit, and you should get little or no significant heat build up. However, watch out for flying chunks from the cut off wheels. They are prone to sending broken pieces flying around the work area - including your face. Eye protection is mandatory, face protection highly recommended.

You could also try putting some superglue behind the domed head to stop the rivet from spinning, and then drill out from the dimpled side.

[Terry Barr]

once the button head is gone take a small drift and drive the rivet out
if you are careful you should not do any more damage

[Bill White]

The friable white wheels don't generate as much heat. Maybe try them.
Bill

[Bill Houghton]

I've seen bits designed to drill out this kind of rivet by drilling through the surrounding sheet metal. You'll wind up with a larger hole than you've got now, but less paint damage. I think auto body people use them; if not there, they may be able to refer you to an industrial supply house with that type of bit.

Depending on the number, you could try filing - less heat generated on the piece at the expense of more heat generated in the operator, but if you can reach in there, the right file could move fairly quickly.

[Steve Clardy]

Try your drill bit again. Attack it at an angle.
The drill flutes will catch the side of the rivet head. May still spin a bit, but will eventually take the head off

[Chip Lindley]

Dremel Dremel Dremel !!! These little boogers are good for everything! Use a thin cutoff wheel to grind away the button top until the rivet is ready to remove. Looks like you have only 4 to do....not 4000! Good luck!

[Peter Elliott]

Thanks for the replies.

I have a dremel tool and was avoid using it. One for flying debris and I find the bits where down. I could try the slot method.

I have seen metal grinders that grind off the button using just a drill. But only found them for aluminum.

Yes, all I need is the button gone and punch the shank part out very easily.

Grinding the heads doesn't take too long, just that heat build up which ruins the paint on the angle bracket.

Maybe some better drill bits. Or maybe a drill bit style machine cutter? Put in a drill press and machine off the head? Like a mill machine but for a drill press.

I've also seen the plier type punches to remove rivets, just not sure if one is made for steel?

still searching but thanks
Peter

[Jim Heffner]

Just drill them out with a sharp drill bit that fills up the hole in the rivet.
When you have drilled enough, a small ring from the rivet will slide onto the drill bit, then take a small punch and tap the button head of the rivet
out and your done!

[Wayne Cannon]

I've had good luck drilling them out with an undersized bit -- i.e., barely smaller than the rivet shaft. If they spin (and they sometimes do), I use a center-punch angled kind of sideways in the hole I've started, or in the rivet head near the side of its hole, to cause the rivet to bind against the side of its hole. You only need to drill through the rivet head. The head will then shear off easily with a sideways tap from a screwdriver. A drift pin (or a small nail) will drive the remainder of the rivet out of the hole if it doesn't drop out easily (there's usually enough thin metal where the head sheared off that it doesn't simply drop out).

I never had much luck drilling rivets out with a larger bit -- i.e., the size of the rivet shaft or larger -- without the rivet just spinning regardless of any attempts to make it bind.

[Dustin Lane]

If you go the dremel route you might want to try out the fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels. they last a bit longer than the smaller cut-offs, though they are a bit more expensive.

you could also try putting some sort of heatsink on the good side to help dissipate some of the heat.

another idea might be to make your own punch out tool using a scrap screwdriver of appropriate radius. cut the head off, maybe sharpen it a touch. add a swift swing of a hammer and should punch out the rivets. may or may not work.

good luck however you do it.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

Currently I grind the button head side (which is smooth) till gone, it's OK to damage this side of the part, not needed.
I'd have beat the daylights out of one of those buttons w/a cold chisel along about the third one I tried to drill.

If that didn't work, I'd have run out and bought a 220 Swift or a .22/250 and blown the backside out and told it, "There - now you have a lot more to worry about than a few blisters". :D

You're a better man than I am, or at least one with more patience ;).

[Scott Myers]

I've used this very method that Jim describes to remove this type of rivet on many occassions. Works pretty well. Just work slowly, use a very sharp bit of the right diameter to end up with the ring Jim describes and don't push too hard. If you push too hard, you'll spin the rivet and then you will have to slot the back to hold it.


Just drill them out with a sharp drill bit that fills up the hole in the rivet.
When you have drilled enough, a small ring from the rivet will slide onto the drill bit, then take a small punch and tap the button head of the rivet
out and your done!

[Peter Stahl]

Use your dremmel to cut a slot in the button side for a screw driver, then you can hold it while you drill it out on the other side.

[James White]

I've had good luck drilling them out with an undersized bit -- i.e., barely smaller than the rivet shaft. If they spin (and they sometimes do), I use a center-punch angled kind of sideways in the hole I've started, or in the rivet head near the side of its hole, to cause the rivet to bind against the side of its hole. You only need to drill through the rivet head. The head will then shear off easily with a sideways tap from a screwdriver. A drift pin (or a small nail) will drive the remainder of the rivet out of the hole if it doesn't drop out easily (there's usually enough thin metal where the head sheared off that it doesn't simply drop out).

I never had much luck drilling rivets out with a larger bit -- i.e., the size of the rivet shaft or larger -- without the rivet just spinning regardless of any attempts to make it bind.

I used to build aircraft assemblies and have always had the best luck with what Wayne recommends above. This would be from the good face. You don't want the outside edges of the bit to grab the rivet. Moderate speed and lube will help. You only need to get to just below the crown/flair of the rivet. Then a sharp blow with a punch will fracture the small remaining ring. If the gage of the steal is not stout enough then back it up with a socket just large enough to clear the head of the rivet. If it still grabs you can use a small sanding disk with slow rpm to grind it down. This will require something with variable speed like a drill motor. 1" sanding disks would be the best.

Edit: Be sure that your punch has a flat face. So as not to expand the shaft of the rivet and binding it in the hole further. If they are already bound in the hole then you will need to drill down into the rivet past the depth of the sheet metal. But then you will need a punch that has no taper as not to contact the sides and expand the shaft once again.

James

[Peter Elliott]

very good ideas.

I will try the small bit. I may go out a get a new drill bit. But not sure the borgs are the good in quality.

I know of this "ring", will try to dupe.

Thanks and I'll post my success or failure!

Peter

[John Bush]

Hi Pete,
If the grinder method worked well before your concern for heat generation, try keeping the painted side cool with a wet sponge or rag compress.