Raised panel door questions...

[Michael Donahue]

I finally have a decent router table set up and I picked up a raised panel set from Rockler. I've made flat panel doors on my table saw before, but this will be the first time I make some doors with the router bits. I have a few questions though....

I've heard some people say that the small tenon you get with the cope & stick bits isn't that strong so you should dowel the joint or something if you are using a raised panel that needs to float. But then again, I doubt commercial cabinet makers for example go to all that trouble and my kitchen cabinet doors haven't failed yet. :confused: What's your take on this? I want to make some cabinets for a home office project and I really don't want the doors to fall apart :D

Also, does the groove for the panel need to be centered in the rails and stiles, or is it OK to set it back some? How close to the back edge do you usually set your grooves?

Thanks for the help folks!

[Chip Lindley]

No extra dowels or tenons are needed for cabinet door construction. If a door fails, it is from abuse and not its construction. Make sure all mating surfaces are coated with yellow glue before clamping, but strive to keep glue out of the inside corners so the panel may float in its groove for expansion/contraction.

The bead or ogee profile of the cope/stick will dictate where the groove lies in 3/4 stock. This is usually about 1/8 from the back side, allowing either 5/8 thick panels to be flush with the fronts of rails/stiles, or 3/4 thick panels to be flush with both front and back, using a back cutter with your panel raiser bit.

[frank shic]

chip's got all the right answers, michael. if you want some added security, you can fire some 23 gauge nails through the back where the tenon would fit into the groove. if you look carefully at the back of most production cabinet doors, you'll see those tiny nail holes. the advantage to this approach is that you can free up your clamps immediately afterwards for the next door. don't forget to take small bites when raising the center panel. good luck!

[Chip Lindley]

P.S. while we're at it, size your panels to fit exactly in the height and width of the grooves of the rails/stiles. After it is raised, rip 1/8 off each SIDE of the panel sides. Leave the tops and bottoms exact height to fit the groove. This gives room for expansion across the solid rood panel. Many use "spaceballs" to fill the space and prevent the panel from rattling. A little dab of clear silicone does the same thing. Only, keep it off anywhere you dont want it, and allow it to dry before assembly. Enjoy your new doors!!

[Michael Donahue]

Thanks guys! Those are some great tips:cool:

[frank shic]

michael, don't forget to finish the edge of the raised panel BEFORE you put it in the frame or else you will get a very visible line when the panel shrinks like i did on some milk paint raised panel doors i built for my mobile raised panel door station.