Ready to put my G0513x2 to work

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have finally gotten through the setup procedure for the bandsaw I received a month ago. Last night I was milling some scrap on the jointer at at the end decided to square up a corkscrew-shaped 2x4 and check out the resaw and drift on the bandsaw. The result is pictured below and was done with the stock 1/2" 6tpi blade. I used a compass to scribe a straight line down the center of the 2x4 with the jointer face as the reference. When I finished cutting, the line was gone. With the stock blade either there was no drift or the fence was already tuned for it (yeah, right!) Making the cut was more interesting than I expected. It would cut for a few inches then pause then go again. My initial thoughts are a) wrong blade (too high tpi) for a 3 1/2" thick cut or b) the stock blade just isn't up to the task. I just want to make sure I understand what's up before I put on the good blade. Any other opinions?

For those G0513x2 owners out there, in regards to tensioning the blade. The manual says to start ~5 on the tension gauge but that's for a 1/2" blade. I figure that starting 5 would not hurt a 3/4" Timberwolf blade, but where would you start for a 1/4" blade?

Last question. If you wanted to resaw a 2x6 for stock for a shop project, would you use the stock Grizzly 1/2" 6tpi blade or a good Timberwolf 3/4" 3 tpi blade?

[Marcus Ward]

You experience with saw setup and initial run mirrors mine. I think the saw pausing in the cut is it clearing too much sawdust.

I am running my 3/4" woodslicer at 5.5 on the scale but it's a .022" back, I think the timberwolf is a .035 so it should require more tension. No idea on the 1/4".

Use the good blade, I think the better finish on the blade will give you less saw-marking on the wood.

[Peter Quadarella]

The stock blade is not great but your experience is similar to mine - I have never experienced drift with the G0513X2. I don't pay much attention to the numbers regarding tension, as different blades require different tension.

[jerry nazard]

I found the stock blade not good for much more than setting up the saw. I am getting excellent results running a 1/2" 3 tpi blade from Highland Hardware with moderate tension.

Using a 3/16" blade, I am having tension and tracking problems. Have you tried a narrow blade on your saw?

-Jerry

[Anthony Whitesell]

I haven't tried the narrow blade yet. The project requiring the thin blade is approaching and I thought I'd ask where other G0513x2 owners begin the tensioning of a 1/4" blade. The last thing I want to do is break the blade before I get to turn the machine on.

I'm currently trying to decide whether to beat on the stock 1/2" 6tpi blade or to install the Timberwolf for the resawing a 2x6 for a shop project. I think I may run into problems resawing 6" at 6tpi and should probably bite the bullet, do it right, and install the Timberwolf.

Honestly, I was amazed at how well the stock blade did work. Maybe after I use a better blade I won't be so amazed.

[Marcus Ward]

Trust me, you'll be less amazed.

[Gary McKown]

I wonder if the stop-go syndrome had anything to do with the knots visible in the board? 6 tpi and pine knots would not go together very well, IMO.

I didn't bother at all with the stock blade and put on a ½" Timberwolf for initial setup. There wasn't much to do - a tweak here and there, per the manual, was all that was needed. I set tension per the flutter test and then gave it an extra little *scrinch*. I think if you start very low with the ¼" blade, enough so it stays on the wheels when hand-turned, you will end up all right.

Let us know how much readjusting is needed for the thin blade.

[Marcus Ward]

When you get a wide blade on check your trunion to make sure the bearings are square to the blade. I had to loosen mine up and shift it a tiny tiny bit.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I wonder if the stop-go syndrome had anything to do with the knots visible in the board? 6 tpi and pine knots would not go together very well, IMO.

Now you have me wondering. That has also convinced me to put on the Timberwolf 3tpi for the 2x6 resaw. I don't really need that stop-n-go happening through the length of an 8 foot long board. :mad:

Thanks everyone.

[glenn bradley]

I'll add to what others are saying. I used the stock blade to setup and did two test cuts. I use 3/4" 2-3 Timberwolf for resaw and coarse and fine (don't remember the tooth count) 1/4" blades for curves. Since I picked up a 1970's Delta 10" BS at a garage sale I pretty much just leave the 3/4" on the Griz except for curves in thicker stock.

[Peter Quadarella]

I used Timberwolf blades for a while and they are fine and economical. However I have been mainly using a 3/8" bi-metal and 3/4" carbide from Lennox lately and prefer them.

I have a 1/4" Timberwolf I used a good bit to make some bandsaw boxes and it worked fine. I had an 1/8" Timberwolf also - I had some trouble keeping it on the wheels though.

[Jim Kountz]

Well I just got my G0513X2 last week but I have already resawn several boards with it using a Woodslicer 3/4" 3tpi. Its like butter. I didnt even use the stock blade following advice I learned here from others. I hung it on the wall for "someday" use. A day I doubt will ever come since using the Woodslicer. I also installed a 3/8" Timberwolf and tried some curved/scrolling cuts. It performed great. Just for kicks I tried slicing off about 1/8" off a 5" wide piece of walnut and the 3/8" blade did fine it just took a slower feed rate.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Well, tonight I put the 3/4" 3tpi PC set Timberwolf on my G0513x2. The tension gauge reads somewhere around 8 1/2 to 9 (which isn't even on the scale). I resawed one of the 2x4 pieces from my original picture...twice. In the original picture the pieces are about 3/4" thick, so resawed once to 3/8 and again down to ~3/16.

I'm not impressed about the low tension claims of the Timberwolf. I was thinking if the specs for the saw list that it can tension a 1" blade, I would expect to max it out trying to do so. So with a low tension silicon carbide blade 3/4" wide I was thinking that it should tension around 7 on the scale (the stock 1/2" blade was just over 6). As for the saw marks I didn't see much difference between the stock 1/2" and the Timberwolf 3/4". I will say the the Timberwolf made the cuts faster and straighter just not much cleaner.

Bandsaw blades don't last forever, next time I think I'll try the Woodslicer.