Best way to make this cut?

[Matt Day]

Hi all,

I'm in the process of making some salad tongs similar to the one in the attached picture. The thickness goes from 1/2" to 1/4" here, with a roundover.

What do you think the best way is to go about making the recessed cut with the roundover? I did some test runs on the router table and it came out okay, but I'm worried about accuracy and repeatability. I'm making 4 of these.

I thought about using a bottom mounted bearing bit with the router table and making a template, but I don't have a bottom mounted beading bit for the roundover.

I suppose I could use the router (out of the table) with a template with the wood mounted beneath, and use one of the metal pattern inserts instead of relying on the bearing bits. That's probably the way to go, but please let me know what you think.

Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd use what's often called a bowl-making bit. It has a profile which is a flat bottom with quarter-round corners. I'd put a bearing on the shaft, and run the bearing against a template with a hand-held router. You can buy suitable bearings from many of the companies which sell router bits. The result is a bearing-guided bowl-making bit. (I think I've also seen these pre-assembled from some bit sellers.)

I'd do the routering on the blank first, while there's meat to clamp or screw the template to. After routering, you can cut away what you don't need.


Bowl bit: http://eagleamerica.com/bowl-tray--lettering-bits/p/144-0702/
Bearings: http://eagleamerica.com/bearings--rub-collars/p/196-0400/

[Jason Beam]

I agree with your last idea - a guide bushing, core-box bit, a pattern and several clamps to keep everything in place.

[Walt Caza]

Hi Matt,
Unusual project!
Like Jason B., I agree with guide bushing and pattern.
If you go that route, you can make alot more than just the original 4 you require.

Creeker Roy Wall was making these spatulas a couple of Christmas's ago:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=48059

They reminded me or your tongs, and food safe wood finishes were also mentioned.
Could be a terrific hand-crafted gift!
good luck with it,
Walt

ps be sure to share some pics when you're done

[Jamie Buxton]

I agree with your last idea - a guide bushing, core-box bit, a pattern and several clamps to keep everything in place.

No, I suggested a bowl bit, not a core box bit. They're different. The core-box bit has a semicircular profile. The bowl bit has a flat bottom. If you attempt to mill out the middle of the spooned area with a core-box bit, the surface is somewhat corrugated. With the bowl bit, the surface is flat. That flat surface is much easier to sand out.

[Wilbur Pan]

I'd use some curved gouges to scribe the curved line of the hollow, and then a router plane for the bottom.

If you don't have a curved gouge, you could go around the edge with a narrow chisel and then use sandpaper to smooth out the facets.

[Tom Henderson2]

I'd use what's often called a bowl-making bit. It has a profile which is a flat bottom with quarter-round corners. I'd put a bearing on the shaft, and run the bearing against a template with a hand-held router. You can buy suitable bearings from many of the companies which sell router bits. The result is a bearing-guided bowl-making bit. (I think I've also seen these pre-assembled from some bit sellers.)

I'd do the routering on the blank first, while there's meat to clamp or screw the template to. After routering, you can cut away what you don't need.


Bowl bit: http://eagleamerica.com/bowl-tray--lettering-bits/p/144-0702/
Bearings: http://eagleamerica.com/bearings--rub-collars/p/196-0400/


Dumb newbie question coming....

Can you add a bearing to a bit that didn't come to the factory with one?

Any problems getting the bearing onto the shank? Do you need to heat it, or press it on?

-TH

[Jason Beam]

No, I suggested a bowl bit, not a core box bit. They're different. The core-box bit has a semicircular profile. The bowl bit has a flat bottom. If you attempt to mill out the middle of the spooned area with a core-box bit, the surface is somewhat corrugated. With the bowl bit, the surface is flat. That flat surface is much easier to sand out.

I wasn't agreeing with you - i was agreeing with the OP. I know they're different. :)

But now that you mention it - i like the bowl bit better for the reasons you stated. So now I agree with you, too! :P

[Rob Russell]

Matt,

Are you trying to make a few of these or setup to make a lot?

[Chris Padilla]

What about a dado blade on the table saw? Just stop short and it'll give you that scooped out look. A 6" set might be better than an 8" set depending upon what you want in the profile.

[Matt Day]

I was going to make 4 of them, but if I could get the jigs set up I'd knock out more for gifts.

I like the dado blade suggestion and I think it would work for part of it, but I don't think it would do the trick at the back of the cut for that radiused portion of the "U".

The bowl bit will work for sure, and I'll probably order one. I used a core bit to make the "U" shape, but to remove the material in between I need a flat bottom bit and I'm afraid I'll cut part of the radius if it's not set up right. It's kind of hard to explain, but if I simply get a bowl bit it should work fine.

Thanks!

[Jamie Buxton]

Dumb newbie question coming....

Can you add a bearing to a bit that didn't come to the factory with one?

Any problems getting the bearing onto the shank? Do you need to heat it, or press it on?

-TH

Yes, you can add bearings to bits. They just slide on the shank without heat or press.