contractor saw alignment

[Tom Cullom JR.]

I just went through the alignment process again on my contractor saw ( with PALS) After less than 10 hours running time from the last alignment. The saw was moved just before the addition of the PALs

I got the blade aligned to within 3 thousands of a inch and all tightened up everything still ok. I put the motor back on and noticed the blade moved .http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowconfused.gif If you put any pressure (sideways)on the motor it causes the blade to move out of alignment (noticeable to the eye when watching).
The back trunnion is not moving it is in the milled out half moon slot that the tilt motion rides in(hope that is understandable).
Is here any way to correct this problem?? http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowupset.gif http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowupset.gif

Thanks for any help....

[glenn bradley]

I hope someone can correct me when I say "no" to correcting that problem. The trunnions are not strong enough to resist the flex. With the exception of the very heavy duty versions, most contractor saws have this problem. The motor must be hanging when you consider the adjustment because, as you have noticed, it effects the final blade position. The Pals will make moving the trunnions under the load of the motor easier and more controlled.

Knowing this flex exists I'm sure you can guess how the alignment will be effected when you try tilting the blade. This does not mean your saw will not serve you well but you do have to take things into consideration. Despite the size of some of them, contractor saws were designed as portable saws. Sort of a larger pre-cursor to the jobsite saw. The original design was not necessarily focused on furniture making. All that being said; I and many others have done just fine with a contractor saw.

[Aaron Berk]

I've beat my head against the saw table on my 113. series craftsman contractor saw many times in frustration about aligning it. I've still got "MILD" issues with it, but I made 4 of my own PALS and installed 1 on each corner and upgraded to grade 8 bolts for the trunnion mounts. This has helped tremendously but at night when I sleep I still dream of beastly cabinet saws frolicking through the planer shavings. One of these days I'll quit playing around with contractor saws.

[Loren Hedahl]

I downsized from a contractors saw to a bench top, a DeWalt 745.

Interestingly, with a good sharp blade on either saw, I think the bench top saw makes a smoother cut, especially when the motor is tilted for a bevel cut.

I also went through all the adjustments. I did only install pals on the back trunnion bolts, but I don't see where additional pals would help much.

I've never used a cabinet saw, so will probably never in this lifetime know the joys of owning such a beast. But I'm happy enough with the several methods I have at my disposal for making large pieces of wood, smaller pieces!

[Bill Huber]

I would say you may want to look at the arbor bearings.

On my old Sears saw I always did my setup with the belt on the motor just as if it was running. The weight of the motor would make it go out of adjustment so I just left it all connected and it worked out fine.

[Fred Belknap]

I don't know any way to fix it. I have one that is retired in the barn, couldn't sell it. I came to the conclusion that it is impossible to keep it aligned. It is a delta. I kept it in the shop to do an occasional cut when my ts fence was tied up with the router. It cut fine until it was tilted. I did what I should of done to start and got a cabinet saw. I think the motor is to heavy for the trunnion. The trunnion on mine broke once and had to be replaced. I don't know for sure why it broke. Moved it to th barn beside a RAS that won't stay aligned, maybe they keep each other company.

[Chip Lindley]

I do imagine aluminum trunnions cannot bear up under motor weight as perhaps cast iron can. My experience with an old Rockwell contractors that I completely took apart and rebuilt, according to an article in FWW, using Grade 8 bolts for trunnions, worked very well for me. My problem was that one trunnion hole was ill begotten and I had to moto-tool it larger to align the trunnions exactly with the miter slot. Once everything was tight, the very heavy 1.5 hp motor had no effect on my adjustments. I always depended on a machinists square to set my angles. I only adjusted the old Jet-Lock rip fence to the blade once in about 10 years. It worked for me, but it was an old Rockwell, all CI.

[Chip Lindley]

BTW...when I put my contractors saw together, I squeezed the trunnions together around the arbor assembly with a deep reach Pony clamp as per the tune-up article in FWW/early 90s. (can't put my hands on it now) Then I bolted the trunnions to the table with the Grade 8s, minimizing play to the utmost.

'Cuse my ignorance, but what are PALs? I havn't been keeping up recently!

[Tom Henderson2]

'Cuse my ignorance, but what are PALs? I havn't been keeping up recently!

PALS are a contractor's saw alignment aid.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20591

Marketed by in-line industries, they make it a lot easier to get the blade aligned with the miter slots.

Sadly, In-line has a very checkered record as far as direct sales customer service. Good products, but often miserable service.

SO -- folks are best served buy purchasing PALS through a dealer, such as Woodcraft, Peachtree, etc.

-TH