Grizzly vs Steel City

[Chris Lindell]

Hello all, I'm looking for opinions on the Steel City 40615G and the Grizzly G0604 or G0490. Similar features & price, but I'm having a hard time differentiating the most important ones. Such as the 1hp vs 1.5hp Grizzly and the parallelogram vs wedge bed setups. I would also like some opinions of those that already own these machines if possible. Thanks in advance for your input!

Chris

[glenn bradley]

This will get you a boat-load of stuff on the G0490:

http://www.google.com/search?q=G0490&sitesearch=www.sawmillcreek.org

[Scott Wigginton]

While they are at the same price point, you have to consider your needs. If you need an 8" jointer (or expect you will be needing one in the future), then don't look at 6" jointers. If 6" is fine then I highly recommend you look at the G0604XB (http://cgi.ebay.com/Grizzly-6-Parallelogram-Jointer-Warranty-NEW-G0604XB_W0QQitemZ280281273861QQcmdZViewItem?hash=i tem280281273861&_trkparms=72:1205|39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14), it can be had for $433 after cashback vice $660 for the 40615G.

I don't have experience with either unit (my 0490 is sitting at my freight terminal but I can't pickup until next week, ARG!), but looking at it in my unique fashion here is what your choice appears to come down to:

Is a granite fence and 12" longer table worth an extra $217 while losing a parallelogram bed and an extra knife?

For an extra $70 over the Steel City you can get the G0490. If I were staying 6" I woulda picked up the G0604XB in a heartbeat.

[Nancy Laird]

The Steel City wedge-bed jointer is great!!!! We have one, and unless you are trying to joint 10-foot boards, the 68" bed length is great. The Steel City units also have a rebate going until December 31, and recently they doubled the rebates. If you'd like more info about our jointer, PM me and I'll have LOML respond.

[Chris Lindell]

Nancy: PM sent

Scott: The parallelogram vs wedge is exactly what I'm trying to figure out. How often do adjustments need to be made and how difficult are they with the different methods? I'm assuming that the former is simpler due to the price increase that seems to be pretty common for that feature. Pardon my ignorance, my jointer is just a Stanley #7 (110 y.o. - still young!)

Thanks!

Chris

[Marcus Ward]

I'm not sure how important the bed adjustments are. I've never adjusted mine after I set it up initially, a lot of people use it this way from what I understand. I just make multiple passes if I need to take off more.

If you anticipate having to joint longer boards, I highly recommend the 8". The longer beds are very nice.

[Greg Cole]

Ditto what Marcus said.
I spent a couple hours tuning in my G0586 8" dovetailed way jointer. The outfeed table hasn't moved in a long time and the infeed table moves maybe a linear inch a year, if that. Changing knives or working so really wonky stock that needs heavier passes to flatten one face are the 2 things that cause me to adjust the infeed table. I'd wager it'll be a few hundred years before there's any discernable wear on the moving bits there. The key to successful tailed jointing is as much technique as any tailed tool in the shop once set up accurately.
I strongly recommend the 8" machine as I often wish I would have plunked the $ down on a 12".:o Take a look at your local Craigs List. There's 20 sellers of 6" jointer for every one selling an 8". Just sayin'.
The cut quality from 3 knife to 4 knive will be hard to tell & the stock off a jointer sees further surface treatment anyway. I've never had an issue with my CI fence (well other than a boob of a co-worker running it back too far off the table & then back forward and chipping a small piece off the tapered part of the fence that rides on the table :mad:).
Regardless of brand, a jointer is a must for stick built items. And if you buy lumber in larger lots you'll love the ability to face and edge joint a pile of stock in next to no time.

[John Bush]

Hi Chris,
I have had both the wedge and parallelogram styles and don't think there is a big difference for hobby use. I have a griz because it is a good machine and the showroom is close by. I would base your decision on cost and convenience as both machines would be a good addition to your shop. Keep looking @ Craig's list too. I'm guessing we will see increased opportunities for good deals for a while. JCB.

[Cary Falk]

I don't have any of the jointers listed. I have both Grizzly and Steel City equipment and both companies make nice stuff. If you have the space and money go 8". I think bed type is a minor consideration. I pick jointers by price and deal with which ever bed type it comes with. I went with a 8" parallogram (W1741) jointer because I got a good deal .

[Ted Shrader]

Chris -

I recently went with a Steel City 40620G -- 8" with wedge beds.

Had an old green PM 6" in my shop (garage) on semi-permanent loan for a long time. When it finally went to its rightful home, I had already made up my mind to get an 8" for the extra face surfacing capacity. The extra length on the beds is really great to have also.

The parallelogram vs wedge (handwheel) was a very minor consideration. As the others have said, the infeed table doesn't move evry much over its life and the outfeed moves only enough, if ever, to line up with the blades.

The size of the fence on the Steel City was also a consideration since it is longer than the Grizzly fence.

The 3 vs 4 knive argument is also a minor consideration. If you want more cuts per inch, just feed a little slower - say on the last pass.

As Nancy said, Steel City has doubled their rebates through the end of the year. (Woodcraft was running a 5% off at the time also, which covered the tax.)

The last consideration for me was local pick up. I did not have to worry about shipping damage and delivery coordination with Grizzly. In your case, you could make a road trip to Missouri- admittedly that would cost more than the standard shipping from Grizzly and you would have to pay sales tax.

Good luck on your decision.

Regards,
Ted